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June 13th, 2011, 04:38 PM | #1 |
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Sigma 20mm 1.8
Anyone using this lens with a cropped sensor for steadicam work? If so, how do you like it?
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June 13th, 2011, 06:58 PM | #2 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
I'm not a moderator, but just a heads up...this post really belongs in one of the DSLR sections. It will probably be moved. Now to your question.
I like the Sigma 20mm 1.8 so much that after I used one at the reception I bought a second one. I shoot with Canon 60d's and it's great for handheld or glidecam, especially when it's too dark for the Tokina 11-16 2.8. It doesn't give the big wow look of the 11-16, but when shooting in low light, 1.8 blows away 2.8. |
June 13th, 2011, 07:14 PM | #3 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
Of all the lenses in my bag (8) I feel like I got the most for my money with this lens.
Last edited by Craig Terott; June 14th, 2011 at 05:52 AM. |
June 13th, 2011, 08:08 PM | #4 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
Hi Ian,I completely agree with both Mark and Craig - and I'd also like to add that the close focusing comes in very handy for detail shots. I think the distance from the sensor plane it can focus is only 7". And reviews will say its soft, but I'm very happy with the sharpness.
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June 13th, 2011, 09:42 PM | #5 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
Hi Craig,
Your post peaked my intrest. I got out the Sigma 20 1.8 and Tokina 11-16 2.8. They looked the same brightness at 2.8, but then when I took the Sigma to 1.8 it was noticeably brighter, as it should. Are you sure you had both cameras at 2.8? Hi Joel, I had always been impressed with the close focus abilities of the Sigma 20 1.8 as well. On my Panny HMC150 I always used the macro abilities of the lens and greatly missed it when going over to DSLR. A lot my lenses will not focus closer than 2-3 feet. For true macro I have a vintage Vivitar Series 1 28-105 that will focus at about an inch or so, but I don't use that lens too often, except for macro purposes. I just compared the close focus capabilities of the Sigma 20 1.8 compared to the Tamron 17-50 2.8. The Sigma allowed me to get much closer, but with the Tamron at 50mm, I was able to get the exact same framing in focus. Now for moving shots, it's much easier to use the Sigma 20, but for a static shot, I was impressed that the Tamron could get the same shot when framed at 50mm. |
June 14th, 2011, 05:58 AM | #6 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
"Your post peaked my intrest. I got out the Sigma 20 1.8 and Tokina 11-16 2.8. They looked the same brightness at 2.8, but then when I took the Sigma to 1.8 it was noticeably brighter, as it should. Are you sure you had both cameras at 2.8?"
After re-testing this, I think my error was using the Tokina lens with a more contrasty profile. Of course I should use identical profiles! My mistake. |
June 14th, 2011, 07:23 AM | #7 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
As food for thought, I'd like to toss in that while not as wide as the 20mm, I am very fond of my Sigma 30mm F/1.4. For reception work it is excellent. It is an odd angled lens, and a bit soft, as Sigmas tend to be, but nevertheless it's very useful.
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June 14th, 2011, 06:27 PM | #8 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
I shoot with this lens on a glydecam all the time. The focus can be soft, but at least it's bright enough to see.
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June 18th, 2011, 06:37 AM | #9 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
When I was using DLSR's the 20mm was my favorite lens for lowlight work. Awesome lens for that purpose! Used it on a glidecam to and it was great. Very enjoyable. Since moving to the AF100 with it's 2X crop factor I don't use this lens on the glidecam but I use it for all the dancing and wow is it sharp! Always running F1.8 ISO 1250 and 1/60 shutter. Very happy with it. When taking stills it's not a sharp lens at 1.8-3.5 apertures. Once you hit F4 it's wonderfully sharp.
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June 19th, 2011, 11:21 PM | #10 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
Hmmm...I'll try it at 4 to see the difference...
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June 26th, 2011, 08:14 PM | #11 |
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Re: Sigma 20mm 1.8
I'm going to try the Sigma 20mm 1.8 (NIKON version) first on a Merlin/FS100 setup . I'm really happy with a Tokina 11-16/Canon 60D/Merlin setup--I never (I least I dont) adjust the focus, and everything is in focus front to back (reasonably so), so have to deal only with exposure (via aperture ring or variable ND filter).
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