New 7" HDSDI and HDMI Monitors from Marshall

[Guy Cochran]

There is are a few new monitors coming out soon with HDSDI and HDMI inputs at a great price point. Currently, you can pick up the analog version the Marshall Electronics -- V-LCD70P-HDA / V-LCD70P-HDSDI / V-LCD70P-HDMI today - I just ordered one to test out against the IKAN V8000HDMI, which is what I currently use. Both the IKAN and the new Marshall weigh 1.3lbs..hmmm.

The analog version of the Marshall called the V-LCD-70P-HDA has component as well as composite inputs, the cool thing about all these new monitors is the powering options. You can pick what battery type you use ie Canon, Sony, Panasonic or Anton Bauer / IDX. IKAN is also offering the same thing with the new version of the V8000HD called the V8000HDMI. http://www.ikancorp.com/pages/monito...hdmi/index.htm

On the Marshall 7", there is also a still store function and peaking. Something the IKAN does not appear to have. I can also appreciate the big rotating knobs on the front of the Marshall for instantly grabbing onto and changing brightness, contrast, tint and color. You have dig into the menu on the IKAN to get to those.

Hopefully this gives the $2200 Panasonic | BT-LH80WU 7.9" Multi-Format Color | BT-LH80WU HDSDI monitor some competition. I've found that focusing with a larger LCD makes shooting HD so much easier and is great when you want to show a client the take.

[Bruce S. Yarock]

Guy,
I'm shooting with a Canon H1 and A1, both normal hdv and with a Letus 35mm adaptor. I'm currently using a Varizoom Switt, which I've had for over a year. My 60 year old eyes need all the help they can get, and I'm considering getting something better. The main help I need is for focus. Can you suggest anything better in that size, hd, for under 2k?
Thanks
Bruce S. Yarock
Yarock Video and Photo

[Guy Cochran]

Hi Bruce,

Besides going up to a 10" or larger, for "all the help you can get" focusing I think the Panasonic is still the reigning champ at $2k+. It has 2 features that you pay dearly for, pixel-to-pixel and focus-in-red functions.
You're kind of at a crossroads with both of those cameras since one would be HDSDI and the other HDMI.
I'd try to stick with digital inputs if you can, the analog component HD monitors tend to be less crisp. If I were shooting where there was lots of set-up time, I'd just go to the larger display.

Good luck,

[Bruce S. Yarock]

Guy,
Thanks for the info. After I read your post, I looked at the back of the swit monitor and realized that there is a bnc in. Would I get better resolution on that monitor by going out of the hd/sdi ion the H1 into the bnc as opposed to the component cable connecrion?
I also have a Gateway 26" hd monitor, that I've used on a couple of shoots where I had set up time and space. You're right...larger makes focus easier.
The Panasonic you refer to- is that the same one you mention in your first post? does it have only one input (hd/sdi)? What about it makes focusing easier?
thanks
Bruce S. Yarock
Yarock Video and Photo

[David Hodge]

Originally Posted by Guy Cochran

Hi Bruce,

Besides going up to a 10" or larger, for "all the help you can get" focusing I think the Panasonic is still the reigning champ at $2k+. It has 2 features that you pay dearly for, pixel-to-pixel and focus-in-red functions.
You're kind of at a crossroads with both of those cameras since one would be HDSDI and the other HDMI.
I'd try to stick with digital inputs if you can, the analog component HD monitors tend to be less crisp. If I were shooting where there was lots of set-up time, I'd just go to the larger display.

Good luck,

Bruce,
If you would be considering spending a bit over $2k then I have just found a larger monitor that might be just right for you.

The monitor I speak of is manufactured in China, but the company sells to US Customers out of Georgia. Their product line starts at a 17" monitor, and then a 21" monitor and up from there. They are compatible with composite, component, SD, and HD-SDI, etc. Seperates audio signal out of the HD-SDI and the like. It has onboard waveform and vector scope, blue only, AC/DC 12v operation, 120hz, and more.

17" runs about $2499, and the 21" is $2999. This beats Sony with their 23" monitor at a whopping $15K for full HD resolution with HD-SDI. All due respect to Guy, but even the 17" monitor is double the size for $200 more than the on camera monitor from Panasonic.

These monitors have DVI connections so that you may connect your MAC/MACBOOK PRO to it if you have one both in the studio and out on location. There are other connections as well for control and for a monitor tally light if you wish to use it. All kinds of features. If You have HDMI devices you can get a connector at Circuit City even that turns HDMI TO DVI for about $35.

I will be purchasing a 21" model for myself. (I will be using it with the HD-SDI out from my Sony XDCAM EX1, as well as using it for on green/blue screen work in a remote location. Neat location monitor for editing and showing crew, actors and clients progress on the spot.) It is the largest monitor I've seen with full hd and the rest for less than some of those on camera monitors. And most of those are not full hd res.

The company is FSI. You may find their on-line store at Flanders Scientific, Inc. - Top Quality Broadcast & Post Production Equipment.


If anyone has experience with this company please let me know. I would love feedback from an owner despite the rock solid appearance of the company and product.

Might a product such as this work for the eyes, the work, and the wallet?

[Bruce S. Yarock]

Thanks, david. I'll check them out. I was more interested in something which I could use on camera, similar in size to the Swit, but with better resolution. the 26" gateway I have, although not too expensive, is really helpfull for focus.
Bruce yarock
Yarock Video and Photo

[David Hodge]

Originally Posted by Bruce S. Yarock

Thanks, david. I'll check them out. I was more interested in something which I could use on camera, similar in size to the Swit, but with better resolution. the 26" gateway I have, although not too expensive, is really helpfull for focus.
Bruce yarock
Yarock Video and Photo

Oh, okay. Good hunting.

Ever hear of FSI?

[Bruce S. Yarock]

No,
But i'll check them out next week.
Bruce Yarock

[Guy Cochran]

Originally Posted by Bruce S. Yarock

Guy,
Thanks for the info. After I read your post, I looked at the back of the swit monitor and realized that there is a bnc in. Would I get better resolution on that monitor by going out of the hd/sdi ion the H1 into the bnc as opposed to the component cable connecrion?
I also have a Gateway 26" hd monitor, that I've used on a couple of shoots where I had set up time and space. You're right...larger makes focus easier.
The Panasonic you refer to- is that the same one you mention in your first post? does it have only one input (hd/sdi)? What about it makes focusing easier?
thanks
Bruce S. Yarock
Yarock Video and Photo

The Swit has analog component input. HDSDI and HDMI are pure digital - no loss. The new Marshall that I'm getting is the analog version because, like you, we have a few different cameras and they all output component so in our case we're initially going with the analog model. Now say I just had a Sony Z7U with HDMI out, I would go with the HDMI model. If I had an H1 - only - I would go with the HDSDI version. The HDSDI version is sweet because you only have one BNC cable, on our Sony S270, it actually has 3 cables for component - ack!

The "pixel to pixel" of Panasonic basically zooms into the native resolution. So you're seeing a smaller 1:1 portion of the frame without scaling artifacts. That's one of the reasons the larger displays are tack sharp, they can do full 1920x1080 without scaling because they are so big. The focus in red I haven't seen in person on the Panasonic 7.9", but I'd imagine it is like "peaking" that lights up red when you hit perfect focus.

The big deal about these new monitors from IKAN and Marshall is the powering option. They can use these lightweight batteries instead of relying solely on pro, expensive and heavy Anton bauer or V-mount "bricks" thus making easy to toss them on a Noga arm to get the angle you want. They're clearly aiming these monitors at the prosumer market, Sony Z7U owners, A1's, HVX200's, HPX170's etc. I'm just happy to finally see them coming to fruition. A few years ago, I used to hate recommending a Marshall 7" for all the HVX200/RedRock guys because I had to have them sit down when I showed them the powering options. Times are a changin' - for the good!

[Bruce S. Yarock]

Guy,
Should the bnc in on the Swit be better quality than the component, assuming I go out of the bnc hd/sdi from the H1?
Is there a mnodel that lets you use component in (like from the A1) or hd/sdi in from the H1?
thanks again for the help.
Bruce S, yarock
Yarock Video and Photo

[Bruce S. Yarock]

Guy,
I just took another look at the Marshall you mentioned. It looks like a good deal for $1000! It comes with either hd/sdi or hdmi, not both- correct? Would it be a dramatic improvement over the swit for focus purposes?
Bruce Yarock

[Guy Cochran]

The Swit is analog component only - no HDSDI. If you connect a BNC cable with an HDSDI signal nothing will appear.

Yes, the new Marshall comes in 3 distinct models

- HDMI
- HDSDI
- Analog Component

Over the Swit and IKAN, with the new Marshall you get -

-Peaking
-Blue only mode
-Better signal processing (analog model) 10-bit processing with 4x oversampling and adaptive 5-line comb filter
-After reading deeper in the manual there is a 1:1 Pixel mode on the Marshall - this thing is going to kick ass!

"This mode bypasses the monitor’s internal scaling function and displays incoming images in their native resolution and
aspect ratio, with a one-to-one mapping:

• For incoming formats smaller than the native resolution of the LCD panel (800 x 480), the image will be displayed
in the center of the screen using only the necessary LCD pixels. For example, NTSC images will occupy exactly
720 x 480 pixels. The surrounding pixels will be black.

• For incoming formats exceeding 800 x 480 pixels, only the center 800 x 480 of the incoming image will displayed
occupying the whole screen, with the remainder of the picture cropped. For example, 1080i formats will both be
cropped to 800 x 480 and displayed full-screen. "


Also included in the manual is the steps to Color Calibrate:

"Use the following procedure when calibrating the monitor to SMPTE color bars with the following procedure:

1. Allow the monitor to warm up for at least 5-10 minutes.

2. Display SMPTE split-field color bars on the monitor using an external source.

3. Enable Monochrome mode.

4. Locate the pluge pattern (super black, black, and gray bars) at the lower-right corner of the screen. Adjust the Brightness knob until
there is no visible difference between the super black and black bars, but the gray bar is still visible.

5. Adjust the Contrast knob until an even grayscale appears along the top bars.

6. Disable Monochrome mode.

7. Enable Blue Check Field mode and adjust the Color knob so that the outermost bars (white and blue) appear to match in brightness.

8. Composite NTSC only: Adjust the Tint knob until the third bar from the left (cyan) and the third bar from the right (magenta) appear to
match in brightness.

9. Disable Blue Check Field mode. "

I will be getting mine in the next day or two and will put up some stills or a video.

[Guy Cochran]

Man, I'm even more excited now! The Peaking is Red - this thing is going head to head with the Panasonic at $1000 off and better powering options!

From manual :

"Peaking Filter (Focus assist)
The Peaking Filter is used to aid the camera operator in obtaining the sharpest possible picture. When activated, all color will be removed from the display and a black-and-white image will remain. The internal processor will display RED color on the screen where sharp edges appear. When the camera operator adjusts (racks) the focus control (on
the camera lens), different parts of the image will have RED colored edges. This indicates that that portion of the image is sharp – or in focus. Final focus is achieved by racking the camera lens focus control back and forth until the desired portion of the image has RED colored edges. Please note that this feature is most effective when the subject is
properly exposed and contains enough contrast to be processed."

Here is a copy of the Marshall V-LCD70P-HDA instruction manual:
http://dvestore.com/images/V-LCD70P-HDA.pdf

[Guy Cochran]

Just got our Marshall V-LCD70P-HDA in. Here are a few pix. It's even cooler than I ever imagined!

There are 4 one touch user Presets with buttons F1-F4 right on the front. I have mine set for:

F1- Peaking
F2- Markers
F3- Pixel to Pixel
F4- Freeze Frame

In the pictures below, you'll notice one that is a close up. This is demonstrating pixel to pixel mode with the same framing as the previous pic.

The build quality is very nice - metal around the front and a solid plastic on the rear. Yet, it doesn't feel heavy and weighs just 1.3lbs. The color controls in the menu allow for serious tweaking with not just the brightness, color, tint and contrast with the knobs on the front, but you can go into RGB Bias and Gain for each color channel - Red, Green and Blue. Plus you can feed bars in from your camera and turn on Red, Blue, Green or Mono (B&W) and really calibrate. The Marshall V-LCD70P-HDA is a pro piece of gear.
Starting at $949 for the Sony, Panasonic and Canon versions and $999 for Anton Bauer and IDX versions. Plus, you can use your dvinfo.net 5% coupon. Marshall Electronics 7″ LCD Monitor at DVcreators.net

[Gints Klimanis]

Very nice, Mr. Cochran. If you're working with Marshall, please suggest a Zoom function that can be repositioned, say with the four menu buttons. A picture in picture of (small rectangle=full screen) would be useful well. The peaking function shown in your image is the most advanced I've seen.