cost of 8mm to tape transfer? at DVinfo.net

Josh Bass · March 26th, 2004, 11:50 PM

I thought just for funsies maybe experimenting with 8mm so I could actually say I shot on film. Of course I'd want to be able to edit non-linear-ly, so I'd have to get whatever I shot transferred to miniDV. A guy in town who's shot told me that it was quite expensive, even with 8mm, to get it transferred to video. Anyone know what a ballpark cost would be? If it's ridiculous, then I won't be trying it. I'm just curious.

Joe Gioielli · March 28th, 2004, 08:18 PM

Josh, cost are all over the board on transfers. Check you phone book and call around.

It's hard to pin down because there are so many ways to do it. Some places just do a simple "shoot the film with a video camera" other places clean the film and use special equipment for the transfer and color correction.

If you search on google for 8mmfilm/super8 you'll find lots of info.

Either way, it is spendy. 8mm is expensive.
I got really into it for awhile and wasted several hundered dollars on it. Cameras, projectors, screens, bulbs, film, all eat money. Developing is cheap, $6 at Wal-Mart. Everything else is a black hole.

You also need to ask yourself what effect you want. You might be able to get the look you want with video.

Good Luck with it.

Dylan Couper · March 29th, 2004, 12:56 AM

WalMart will really develop 8mm film?!???!?!!???!!
WOW!

Geeze, I'm tempted to try it now too. I don't suppose they will develop 16mm?

Richard Alvarez · March 29th, 2004, 06:56 AM

Josh,
Look up Moviestuff here in houston, they do digital transfers.

You could do a "poor man's" telecine. Simply video off the screen. Need a variable speed projector to do that though.

If you are "seriously" into it, shoot negative stock and have it transfered. Pro8 is tops at that, and pricey.

TFG (The Film Group) is cheaper, and does a nice job.

And while you are at it, think 16mm as well. A 16mm filmo can be had for less than 100 bucks.

Richard

Josh Bass · March 29th, 2004, 01:13 PM

Okay, thanks. I was just curious. Let me put it another way, Taking into account that I want pretty good quality, and currently don't own any of the equipment, what would making, say, a five minute short, including raw stock, telecine of said stock to miniDV, and whatever else is necessary, cost? Hard numbers, if you could. I'm not saying for sure I'll want to do anything, but it might be an interesting experiment.

Richard Alvarez · March 29th, 2004, 02:50 PM

Josh,

There are no "hard numbers" until you make the hard decisions. But I can give you some soft numbers with variables.

Camera - Pick one up at an estate sale, maybe five bucks. Pick one up off ebay that is guaranteed... anywhere from 30 to 300 dollars... depending on the model. Sorry I can't be more specific... that's just the way it goes. If you decide to go forward, contact me and maybe I'll loan you one.

Lights - use the ones you shoot DV with, make sure you balance the color for the right stock.

Filmstock - Depending on where you buy it , and what you buy - anywhere from 12 to 20 dollars a roll. (At 24fps, thats a little more thant 2 1/2 minutes, at 18fps, thats a little more than 3 minutes).

Processing again depends on who you send it too. Some places will proces and transfer your NEGATIVE stock (Pro8, Yale Labs)For a set fee. Others will only transfer or only process. Shop around. For a rough figure, call it thirty dollars to process and transfer to mini-dv. (Not including tape, some allow you to send it, some you must buy).

SOOOO.... figure roughly forty dollars a roll to shoot. (Including everything)

What is your planned shooting ratio? Three to one? Six to one? One to One (are you that good?) So compute the cost of a five minute finished project. 120 bucks? 240 bucks?

You see how it can vary.

My suggestion is to borrow a camera. Shoot a role and get it processed. Project it on a screen... and fall in love with film.

Or not.

Become frustrated with the discipline of planning your shots and working with a short magazine. (Hey, we're working with 400 foot loads on a 35mm short... not quite five minutes) Learn to use a hand held light meter, check the exposure on various parts of your set. Measure your lens to subject distance. Wait to get back dailies to see if it came out alright. And its like that whether you shoot 8mm, super 8mm, 16mm or 35. (Okay, we have a videotap, but it's no substitute for the dailies)

Good luck, I think you will like it.

Richard

Josh Bass · March 29th, 2004, 04:01 PM

thanks for the advice, but I think I've been talked out of it for the time being. I'm still terribly inefficient with video, and I don't want to mess with film 'til I get better. . .also the cost is a bit much, considering how much I've ALREADY spent on all the crap I own. I do appreciate the help though, all of you. Maybe some day.

March 26th, 2004, 11:50 PM	#1
Josh Bass Slash Rules! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 5,472	cost of 8mm to tape transfer? I thought just for funsies maybe experimenting with 8mm so I could actually say I shot on film. Of course I'd want to be able to edit non-linear-ly, so I'd have to get whatever I shot transferred to miniDV. A guy in town who's shot told me that it was quite expensive, even with 8mm, to get it transferred to video. Anyone know what a ballpark cost would be? If it's ridiculous, then I won't be trying it. I'm just curious. __________________ The Bass' camerawork The Bass on IMDB

March 28th, 2004, 08:18 PM	#2
Joe Gioielli Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Port Richey, Fl Posts: 142	Josh, cost are all over the board on transfers. Check you phone book and call around. It's hard to pin down because there are so many ways to do it. Some places just do a simple "shoot the film with a video camera" other places clean the film and use special equipment for the transfer and color correction. If you search on google for 8mmfilm/super8 you'll find lots of info. Either way, it is spendy. 8mm is expensive. I got really into it for awhile and wasted several hundered dollars on it. Cameras, projectors, screens, bulbs, film, all eat money. Developing is cheap, $6 at Wal-Mart. Everything else is a black hole. You also need to ask yourself what effect you want. You might be able to get the look you want with video. Good Luck with it. __________________ Why ask me? I thought you were in charge!

March 29th, 2004, 12:56 AM	#3
Dylan Couper Wrangler Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Vancouver, British Columbia Posts: 8,314	WalMart will really develop 8mm film?!???!?!!???!! WOW! Geeze, I'm tempted to try it now too. I don't suppose they will develop 16mm? __________________ Need to rent camera gear in Vancouver BC? Check me out at camerarentalsvancouver.com

March 29th, 2004, 01:13 PM	#5
Josh Bass Slash Rules! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 5,472	Okay, thanks. I was just curious. Let me put it another way, Taking into account that I want pretty good quality, and currently don't own any of the equipment, what would making, say, a five minute short, including raw stock, telecine of said stock to miniDV, and whatever else is necessary, cost? Hard numbers, if you could. I'm not saying for sure I'll want to do anything, but it might be an interesting experiment. __________________ The Bass' camerawork The Bass on IMDB

March 29th, 2004, 04:01 PM	#7
Josh Bass Slash Rules! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 5,472	thanks for the advice, but I think I've been talked out of it for the time being. I'm still terribly inefficient with video, and I don't want to mess with film 'til I get better. . .also the cost is a bit much, considering how much I've ALREADY spent on all the crap I own. I do appreciate the help though, all of you. Maybe some day. __________________ The Bass' camerawork The Bass on IMDB

March 29th, 2004, 06:56 AM	#4
Richard Alvarez Inner Circle Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: San Mateo, CA Posts: 3,840	Josh, Look up Moviestuff here in houston, they do digital transfers. You could do a "poor man's" telecine. Simply video off the screen. Need a variable speed projector to do that though. If you are "seriously" into it, shoot negative stock and have it transfered. Pro8 is tops at that, and pricey. TFG (The Film Group) is cheaper, and does a nice job. And while you are at it, think 16mm as well. A 16mm filmo can be had for less than 100 bucks. Richard

March 29th, 2004, 02:50 PM	#6
Richard Alvarez Inner Circle Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: San Mateo, CA Posts: 3,840	Josh, There are no "hard numbers" until you make the hard decisions. But I can give you some soft numbers with variables. Camera - Pick one up at an estate sale, maybe five bucks. Pick one up off ebay that is guaranteed... anywhere from 30 to 300 dollars... depending on the model. Sorry I can't be more specific... that's just the way it goes. If you decide to go forward, contact me and maybe I'll loan you one. Lights - use the ones you shoot DV with, make sure you balance the color for the right stock. Filmstock - Depending on where you buy it , and what you buy - anywhere from 12 to 20 dollars a roll. (At 24fps, thats a little more thant 2 1/2 minutes, at 18fps, thats a little more than 3 minutes). Processing again depends on who you send it too. Some places will proces and transfer your NEGATIVE stock (Pro8, Yale Labs)For a set fee. Others will only transfer or only process. Shop around. For a rough figure, call it thirty dollars to process and transfer to mini-dv. (Not including tape, some allow you to send it, some you must buy). SOOOO.... figure roughly forty dollars a roll to shoot. (Including everything) What is your planned shooting ratio? Three to one? Six to one? One to One (are you that good?) So compute the cost of a five minute finished project. 120 bucks? 240 bucks? You see how it can vary. My suggestion is to borrow a camera. Shoot a role and get it processed. Project it on a screen... and fall in love with film. Or not. Become frustrated with the discipline of planning your shots and working with a short magazine. (Hey, we're working with 400 foot loads on a 35mm short... not quite five minutes) Learn to use a hand held light meter, check the exposure on various parts of your set. Measure your lens to subject distance. Wait to get back dailies to see if it came out alright. And its like that whether you shoot 8mm, super 8mm, 16mm or 35. (Okay, we have a videotap, but it's no substitute for the dailies) Good luck, I think you will like it. Richard