Cheap gimble for home made Steadicam Jr. at DVinfo.net

Fred Finn · July 28th, 2004, 03:50 PM

I created a gimbal for a steadicam jr for my gl-1 out of i think it was $11.00 in parts.

The parts i bought were:
1 doorknob
1 pvc coupler
1 piece of plywood
1 piece of wood for a handle (size depending on preference)

To make the gimbal I took the a piece of plywood. I used a hole saw to make a hole the exact size of the smaller piece of pvc. After making the hole the coupler will thred (screw) directly into the hole. Now place the doorknob into the exposed side of the pvc. The doorknob will not fit all the way into the pvc, some of it should remain exposed. Build a small platform around the base of the pvc this will act as your support for the next piece the retainer ring. This support should not go all the way up to the top of the pvc, halfway will work. Now you will take another piece of plywood. This will act as your retainer ring to hold the door knob into the pvc.

This piece will be cut in several stages. First. Measure the distance from the top of the support to the top of the pvc. This depth must be smaller than the overall depth of the plywood (vary your plywood size depending on your needs). The depth value of the distance from the top of the support to the top of the pvc will be removed from the plywood retainer ring. Take the retainer ring (as its complete piece of plywood) and mark the top of the pvc size on it. You will then router, or chisel, or whatever means you have out this depth from the plywood. Once you have created this void in the plywood you will then make the hole for the doorknob.

On the retainer ring mark out the size of the doorknob above (or below depending on your perspective) of the doorknob, this will be the narrow area between the knob and the base. You will want to cut out this narrow slot in the retainer. Your best bet is to mark the wood in the center so you know where the hole for the doorknob goes, hopefully you've done this before you dug out the wood for the other side :) .

Now that you have the slot cut, you will make the hole for the doorknob. This will take some experimentation. Your hole must not be larger than the doorknob, and not so small that it binds when the doorknob rotates. You can cut the retainer plate in half for easier mounting. Not much pressure should be placed on this as it will only hit the doorknob at extreme angles, but make sure to sercurly attach none the less. Be careful not to ding, or scratch the doorknob before mounting it. I hit mine with a saw blade and now it binds a little at certain angles

(The piece is the nature of use to connect two different sized pieces of pipe, one side must fit the doorknob, knob in it comfortably)

Cosmin Rotaru · July 29th, 2004, 06:42 AM

Hi Fred. Could you post some pics? It's hard to follow text explanations (especialy when english is not the reader's native language! :) ).
Thanks!

BTW: you'd be welcomed to http://www.homebuiltstabilizers.com/
We also have a forum: http://p200.ezboard.com/bhomebuiltstabilizers

Fred Finn · July 29th, 2004, 06:58 AM

Hey Cosmin,

Yeah I'll post some pics tonight. I just have to finish this paper, and I am offically graduated with a Bachelors Degree in Psychology. WOoo hoo McDonald's here i come sign me up for the fryalator!!

Fred Finn · July 29th, 2004, 08:25 PM

Here are the pics

http://hazardousproductions.com/media/gimbal.html

Cosmin Rotaru · July 30th, 2004, 05:44 AM

I imagine something like that! I do have something made on same principle (a big bearing ball...). Actualy, most (if not all) DIYers went the same route. I'm not satisfied with that.
You know, the JR uses real bearings? Just like you have on a big steadicam: it has bearings in all three axis.
The gimbal we have, with the big ball.. just to much friction!

John Jay · July 30th, 2004, 10:59 AM

you chaps ought to check these bearings and rod-ends out

http://www.ondrives.com/products.asp?recnumber=149

http://www.ondrives.com/products.asp...+%26+Female%29

Fred Finn · July 30th, 2004, 12:59 PM

Yeha not sure that those would be as helpfu. THe movement would be limited with the rod ends. As those are the same that are used in the steering assemblies of cars (tie rod ends) their main purpose is a one axis pivot.

The spherical bearing might be more helpful, but it might be complicated to create a handle, and then a mount to attach it to the platform.

July 28th, 2004, 03:50 PM	#1
Fred Finn Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Jackson, WY Posts: 178	Cheap gimble for home made Steadicam Jr. I created a gimbal for a steadicam jr for my gl-1 out of i think it was $11.00 in parts. The parts i bought were: 1 doorknob 1 pvc coupler 1 piece of plywood 1 piece of wood for a handle (size depending on preference) To make the gimbal I took the a piece of plywood. I used a hole saw to make a hole the exact size of the smaller piece of pvc. After making the hole the coupler will thred (screw) directly into the hole. Now place the doorknob into the exposed side of the pvc. The doorknob will not fit all the way into the pvc, some of it should remain exposed. Build a small platform around the base of the pvc this will act as your support for the next piece the retainer ring. This support should not go all the way up to the top of the pvc, halfway will work. Now you will take another piece of plywood. This will act as your retainer ring to hold the door knob into the pvc. This piece will be cut in several stages. First. Measure the distance from the top of the support to the top of the pvc. This depth must be smaller than the overall depth of the plywood (vary your plywood size depending on your needs). The depth value of the distance from the top of the support to the top of the pvc will be removed from the plywood retainer ring. Take the retainer ring (as its complete piece of plywood) and mark the top of the pvc size on it. You will then router, or chisel, or whatever means you have out this depth from the plywood. Once you have created this void in the plywood you will then make the hole for the doorknob. On the retainer ring mark out the size of the doorknob above (or below depending on your perspective) of the doorknob, this will be the narrow area between the knob and the base. You will want to cut out this narrow slot in the retainer. Your best bet is to mark the wood in the center so you know where the hole for the doorknob goes, hopefully you've done this before you dug out the wood for the other side :) . Now that you have the slot cut, you will make the hole for the doorknob. This will take some experimentation. Your hole must not be larger than the doorknob, and not so small that it binds when the doorknob rotates. You can cut the retainer plate in half for easier mounting. Not much pressure should be placed on this as it will only hit the doorknob at extreme angles, but make sure to sercurly attach none the less. Be careful not to ding, or scratch the doorknob before mounting it. I hit mine with a saw blade and now it binds a little at certain angles (The piece is the nature of use to connect two different sized pieces of pipe, one side must fit the doorknob, knob in it comfortably)

July 29th, 2004, 06:42 AM	#2
Cosmin Rotaru Major Player Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Romania, Timisoara Posts: 453	Hi Fred. Could you post some pics? It's hard to follow text explanations (especialy when english is not the reader's native language! :) ). Thanks! BTW: you'd be welcomed to http://www.homebuiltstabilizers.com/ We also have a forum: http://p200.ezboard.com/bhomebuiltstabilizers __________________ Cosmin Rotaru

July 30th, 2004, 05:44 AM	#5
Cosmin Rotaru Major Player Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Romania, Timisoara Posts: 453	I imagine something like that! I do have something made on same principle (a big bearing ball...). Actualy, most (if not all) DIYers went the same route. I'm not satisfied with that. You know, the JR uses real bearings? Just like you have on a big steadicam: it has bearings in all three axis. The gimbal we have, with the big ball.. just to much friction! __________________ Cosmin Rotaru

July 30th, 2004, 10:59 AM	#6
John Jay Major Player Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: US & THEM Posts: 827	you chaps ought to check these bearings and rod-ends out http://www.ondrives.com/products.asp?recnumber=149 http://www.ondrives.com/products.asp...+%26+Female%29 __________________ John Jay Beware *PLUGGER-BYTES*

July 29th, 2004, 06:58 AM	#3
Fred Finn Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Jackson, WY Posts: 178	Hey Cosmin, Yeah I'll post some pics tonight. I just have to finish this paper, and I am offically graduated with a Bachelors Degree in Psychology. WOoo hoo McDonald's here i come sign me up for the fryalator!!

July 29th, 2004, 08:25 PM	#4
Fred Finn Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Jackson, WY Posts: 178	Here are the pics http://hazardousproductions.com/media/gimbal.html

July 30th, 2004, 12:59 PM	#7
Fred Finn Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Jackson, WY Posts: 178	Yeha not sure that those would be as helpfu. THe movement would be limited with the rod ends. As those are the same that are used in the steering assemblies of cars (tie rod ends) their main purpose is a one axis pivot. The spherical bearing might be more helpful, but it might be complicated to create a handle, and then a mount to attach it to the platform.