March 25th, 2008, 06:10 AM | #1 |
Regular Crew
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Correct techniques for focus using steadicam.
I have a Merlin and Sony V1. My current issue is how to handle focusing. My filming is events and weddings, so I normally have to chase a number of unpredictable people.
Is the trick to fix focus at a certain distance, and always try to work at that range from the subject - moving with them? I assume auto-focus is avoided generally? Any tips folks? |
March 25th, 2008, 06:23 AM | #2 | |
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Quote:
Well so far, I use auto focus, have a light on my camera and stay within range of detail work. All that together, I've had good success. Since the steadicam pilot I have, needs to hands really, I don't have time to mess with the focus.
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March 26th, 2008, 12:09 PM | #3 |
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Deniz,
Most independent steadicam operators (not in the film industry) I know use the auto focus system because it usually works and it allows you to change your distance from the subject fairy easily. The big movie guys have a remote "follow focus" system with an extra person to adjust the focus which has be predetermined for the shot. It's expensive, adds weight to the sled, and requires the "focus puller" individual to operate it. While some cameras have the ability to add a follow focus to them, most of us opt for the auto focus system. Two (maybe more) words of caution...Make sure you have adequate light for the auto focus to work correctly (longer focal range) and be careful about the new 35mm lenses which limit the focal range. They look very "film like" but are harder to keep in focus while moving. That's their nature. Maybe a steadicam operator who actually uses a 35mm Redrock etc. could comment on their usage. Tery Indicam |
March 27th, 2008, 11:21 PM | #4 |
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I was under impression that manual focus control on steadicam, is a two men job, is it?
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March 27th, 2008, 11:26 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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That it is, Buba, except for some operators in the broadcast world (live events, concerts etc) who have equipped their rigs with zoom and/or focus controls on the gimbal.
If you are using a 1/3" or smaller sensor camera, you can often leave the focus at around 5 feet and take advantage of the deep depth of field, as this will deliver everything from 3 feet to infinity in focus under most conditions. Once you start to zoom in to a mid-telephoto, you will need to move to another technique like autofocus. This "set and forget" aka hyperfocal method will be better than autofocus in that you won't get any hunting if a foreground object or person moves through the frame. HD cameras are more finicky regarding focus but this still works fairly well.
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March 28th, 2008, 07:37 PM | #6 |
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nice, thanks for the tip, will try that;
:-) |
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