Exterior Video Car Camera Mounts at DVinfo.net

Jason D. Moore · December 17th, 2002, 12:18 PM

Hah, hey guys... maybe 'cheap' and 'car mount' don't go together, but I had to ask. I have a scene I need to pull off, and don't know how to rig the camera. Two guys talking in a car. I want a couple shots from the hood looking into the windshield, and some from just outside the passenger/driver windows. I saw a place online (lost the URL) that had a suction mount kit and everything, but it was over $1,000. The car won't be travelling very fast (30 mph MAX), and the camera (DVX100) is only about 4-5lbs, so is there a way I can build a rig, or buy a cheaper setup? Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks.

Also, I read through the post "Filming with your camera attached to the roof of your car?" (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3454&highlight=car), but didn't find any info relative to my problem. They had tons of ways of mounting it inside, or through a sunroof, but I need it mounted outside, on the hood and/or side-doors.

Moore

Jeff Donald · December 17th, 2002, 04:14 PM

I think you might want to read this thread http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...5120#post25120 and check my reference to the Bogen suction cups. Ron has a link to a photo of his support system. I would try something similar on the hood of your car. Secure it witha coupe of safety lines in case it comes loose.

Jeff

Jason D. Moore · December 17th, 2002, 07:04 PM

Hey Jeff,

Yeah, as I mentioned I'd read through that thread. I had actually checked that out, but wasn't sure on the weight limit for it. It'd be almost perfect if it would support my camera on one, cause I could get the Bogen #3294 mount, and the #2934 for attaching the camera to it for about $100 total. That'd be a pretty nice setup. The thing I wanted to avoid, was having to buy 3-5 of them, with a huge mounting rig.

Another interesting Bogen product, is the 3292...
http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/templates/templates.php3?sectionid=92&itemid=339
I don't know if that would support it either, they don't list any weight limits for any of these.

Or, the 3289, listed max capacity as 6.7lbs, includes a brace that goes down to the floor for support... that might work for in car shots.

I can't find any specs on the #3294 suction cup though, as far as weight load. You said you believe they were at 8-10 lbs? Because that should plenty. I wasn't sure, because you said 8-10lbs, but then said he should use several of them to support an XL1. Anyway, let me know if you have any exact specs on this, or info on a mounting bracket to attach two of them.

Thanks for the info, you're always good for helpful posts Jeff.

--Moore

Jeff Donald · December 17th, 2002, 07:37 PM

Here's a couple of ideas. The Bogen #3289 http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/te...=92&itemid=333 is said to support 6.7 lbs. It also comes with a stabilization brace.

I recommended 2 of the #3294 because i believe they support slightly more weight and the built in swivel socket will make it easier to adjust the camera. Also, a fully loaded XL1 can weigh close to 10 lbs. with lens, batteries, matte box etc. Better safe than sorry. Two gives you a safety margin.

Jeff

Jason D. Moore · December 17th, 2002, 07:54 PM

Hah, yeah I mentioned the #3289 in my post... didn't you see that? I found that when looking up the 3294... looked like a cool option for in-car shots.

Now, do you have any information on how to join two #3294s together? I couldn't find any hardware on bogen's site... maybe I'm just missing something. Thanks.

Moore

Jeff Donald · December 17th, 2002, 08:32 PM

I would get the two larger clamps and head to Home Depot. The clamps have a provision to lock a stud into place (see picture). The stud locks into place by the thumb screw on the side. I would get a couple of threaded studs (bolts) and washers and nuts at HD. I would also pick-up a 2x6 and some bungee cords and nylon rope.

I would drill the 2x6 for the studs and fasten the clamps to the 2x6 using the studs, washers and nuts. Use the bungee cords to fasten around the supports and attach to the wheel wells. Use the nylon rope to secure the whole rig to the car.

I would use the Bogen 3063 head and attach it to the 2x6. Drill the 2x6 and attach using 3/8 inch bolt and washers and nut. If you have a different head, just substitute your head. You might want to consider the 3295 quick release. it comes with metal wire you can use to secure the camera to the 2x6 for security.

Jeff

Zac Stein · March 18th, 2003, 04:28 AM

How do i mount a camera onto a car roof, have it secure so i can drive fast and do crazy things in the car.

My camera is a pd-150 and i have to shoot a police chase scene from a roof, so well here i pose my question.

Zac

Rob Lohman · March 18th, 2003, 05:26 AM

This is usually done with suction mounts. For an example you can
look here. Keep in mind that things fly through the air
(like insects and such) which you do not want to splat on your
lens. So best to add an UV filter to your lens first.

Also don't do anything stupid in the car. Stunt driving is not
for the faint of heart and takes a lot of practice/instructions.

Keep it safe!! Please.

Adrian Douglas · March 18th, 2003, 06:08 AM

Soft racks!!!! Go to a surf shop and get a set of Ocean and Earth soft racks. These strap to the roof of your can and you can strap your camera to them securely. You might have to play with them to get the camera totally stable but they are a good place to start, and cost only about $30

Adrian van der Park · March 18th, 2003, 02:34 PM

Just get a wideangle lipstick lens, a long svhs cable and some gaffers tape. I shot a 4 min chase scene in december and mounted this bad boy on the bottom of the front fork of a stunt bike. Awesome looking footage. I hooked the lens into a cheap sony digital 8 stuffed into a waist pouch of the driver and it would've been impossible to get that footage any other way.

Sticking a big camera like a pd150 or XL1 on a moving vehicle is asking for trouble if you don't have a super secure mount.

Now before anyone chimes in about quality differences, most chases are just cut cut cuts. You can get away with murder in the editing bay (but not in the shooting. ;) Camera angles are more important than the quality differences, which in this case were minimized due to careful post processing and colour correction.

In test screenings, I've had more than one person gawk at that footage, and it was like 5 mins to setup.

If you were really bent on it, you can get angles that no other camera can get. My advice to really sell speed is to get that camera as low to the ground as possible. I've shot stuff out of a sun roof, and it doesn't sell speed, even when going past the posted sign limits. Stick that lipstick lens under the front bumper for real cool photography.

Adrian

John Jay · March 20th, 2003, 04:13 PM

i got a shoot from inside a car coming up

the camera will be held via a suction pod on the door glass and wound down to poke out at fresh air.
car will be travelling at around 30mph

my questions are

what the best shutter speed for this?

should steadyshot be used?

Dylan Couper · March 20th, 2003, 05:54 PM

I'd stick with 1/60th. A fast shutter might give you that strobe look, probably not what you want.
Experiment with the steadyshot. I'd assume it would be useful.

Alex Taylor · March 20th, 2003, 06:07 PM

I would definitely say keep steadyshot on. The only time you should have it off is when the camera is stationary like on a tripod.. a suction pod is kind of stationary, but the car is moving so it's probably going to move around a bit.

Bill Pryor · March 21st, 2003, 09:14 AM

Yes, use the steadyshot; it will help absorb some of the vibration you'll get. Use the standard shutter speed for your camera, unless you want a special effect. A slower one at that speed will give you strobing and some blur. There is one cool effect you can do if you want...use a really slow shutter, like 1/8, and if you're going the same speed as the object you're shooting, it will be sharp and all the background stuff will be blurred. I've never tried that from a car but have done it hand held.

Hugh DiMauro · June 9th, 2003, 02:22 PM

I've seen a few exterior video car mounts and I'm puzzled. Has anybody ever used one of these contraptions? I thought that the video camera electronics components can't take the buffeting of a car mount, i.e. every time the car hits a dip the pictre gets momentarily snowy or "squiggly" (for lack of a better term). Not to mention the damage to your camera from the contant banging. Any thoughts? I'm scared to death to put my XL1S on that thing.

December 17th, 2002, 12:18 PM	#1
Jason D. Moore Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: california Posts: 39	Cheap DYI Car Mount?? Hah, hey guys... maybe 'cheap' and 'car mount' don't go together, but I had to ask. I have a scene I need to pull off, and don't know how to rig the camera. Two guys talking in a car. I want a couple shots from the hood looking into the windshield, and some from just outside the passenger/driver windows. I saw a place online (lost the URL) that had a suction mount kit and everything, but it was over $1,000. The car won't be travelling very fast (30 mph MAX), and the camera (DVX100) is only about 4-5lbs, so is there a way I can build a rig, or buy a cheaper setup? Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks. Also, I read through the post "Filming with your camera attached to the roof of your car?" (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3454&highlight=car), but didn't find any info relative to my problem. They had tons of ways of mounting it inside, or through a sunroof, but I need it mounted outside, on the hood and/or side-doors. Moore

March 18th, 2003, 04:28 AM	#7
Zac Stein Major Player Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 730	mounting a camera on a car roof How do i mount a camera onto a car roof, have it secure so i can drive fast and do crazy things in the car. My camera is a pd-150 and i have to shoot a police chase scene from a roof, so well here i pose my question. Zac

March 18th, 2003, 05:26 AM	#8
Rob Lohman RED Code Chef Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Holland Posts: 12,514	This is usually done with suction mounts. For an example you can look here. Keep in mind that things fly through the air (like insects and such) which you do not want to splat on your lens. So best to add an UV filter to your lens first. Also don't do anything stupid in the car. Stunt driving is not for the faint of heart and takes a lot of practice/instructions. Keep it safe!! Please. __________________ Rob Lohman, visuar@iname.com DV Info Wrangler & RED Code Chef Join the DV Challenge \| Lady X Search DVinfo.net for quick answers \| Buy from the best: DVinfo.net sponsors

March 18th, 2003, 06:08 AM	#9
Adrian Douglas Trustee Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Chigasaki, Japan. Posts: 1,660	Soft racks!!!! Go to a surf shop and get a set of Ocean and Earth soft racks. These strap to the roof of your can and you can strap your camera to them securely. You might have to play with them to get the camera totally stable but they are a good place to start, and cost only about $30 __________________ Adrian DVInfo.net Search for quick answers Where to buy? From the best in the business...DVInfo.net sponsors

March 18th, 2003, 02:34 PM	#10
Adrian van der Park Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: London, England Posts: 87	Just get a wideangle lipstick lens, a long svhs cable and some gaffers tape. I shot a 4 min chase scene in december and mounted this bad boy on the bottom of the front fork of a stunt bike. Awesome looking footage. I hooked the lens into a cheap sony digital 8 stuffed into a waist pouch of the driver and it would've been impossible to get that footage any other way. Sticking a big camera like a pd150 or XL1 on a moving vehicle is asking for trouble if you don't have a super secure mount. Now before anyone chimes in about quality differences, most chases are just cut cut cuts. You can get away with murder in the editing bay (but not in the shooting. ;) Camera angles are more important than the quality differences, which in this case were minimized due to careful post processing and colour correction. In test screenings, I've had more than one person gawk at that footage, and it was like 5 mins to setup. If you were really bent on it, you can get angles that no other camera can get. My advice to really sell speed is to get that camera as low to the ground as possible. I've shot stuff out of a sun roof, and it doesn't sell speed, even when going past the posted sign limits. Stick that lipstick lens under the front bumper for real cool photography. Adrian __________________ Adrian van der Park VFX modeler London, England

December 17th, 2002, 04:14 PM	#2
Jeff Donald Warden Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 8,287	I think you might want to read this thread http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...5120#post25120 and check my reference to the Bogen suction cups. Ron has a link to a photo of his support system. I would try something similar on the hood of your car. Secure it witha coupe of safety lines in case it comes loose. Jeff

December 17th, 2002, 07:04 PM	#3
Jason D. Moore Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: california Posts: 39	Hey Jeff, Yeah, as I mentioned I'd read through that thread. I had actually checked that out, but wasn't sure on the weight limit for it. It'd be almost perfect if it would support my camera on one, cause I could get the Bogen #3294 mount, and the #2934 for attaching the camera to it for about $100 total. That'd be a pretty nice setup. The thing I wanted to avoid, was having to buy 3-5 of them, with a huge mounting rig. Another interesting Bogen product, is the 3292... http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/templates/templates.php3?sectionid=92&itemid=339 I don't know if that would support it either, they don't list any weight limits for any of these. Or, the 3289, listed max capacity as 6.7lbs, includes a brace that goes down to the floor for support... that might work for in car shots. I can't find any specs on the #3294 suction cup though, as far as weight load. You said you believe they were at 8-10 lbs? Because that should plenty. I wasn't sure, because you said 8-10lbs, but then said he should use several of them to support an XL1. Anyway, let me know if you have any exact specs on this, or info on a mounting bracket to attach two of them. Thanks for the info, you're always good for helpful posts Jeff. --Moore

December 17th, 2002, 07:37 PM	#4
Jeff Donald Warden Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 8,287	Here's a couple of ideas. The Bogen #3289 http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/te...=92&itemid=333 is said to support 6.7 lbs. It also comes with a stabilization brace. I recommended 2 of the #3294 because i believe they support slightly more weight and the built in swivel socket will make it easier to adjust the camera. Also, a fully loaded XL1 can weigh close to 10 lbs. with lens, batteries, matte box etc. Better safe than sorry. Two gives you a safety margin. Jeff

December 17th, 2002, 07:54 PM	#5
Jason D. Moore Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: california Posts: 39	Hah, yeah I mentioned the #3289 in my post... didn't you see that? I found that when looking up the 3294... looked like a cool option for in-car shots. Now, do you have any information on how to join two #3294s together? I couldn't find any hardware on bogen's site... maybe I'm just missing something. Thanks. Moore

December 17th, 2002, 08:32 PM	#6
Jeff Donald Warden Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 8,287	I would get the two larger clamps and head to Home Depot. The clamps have a provision to lock a stud into place (see picture). The stud locks into place by the thumb screw on the side. I would get a couple of threaded studs (bolts) and washers and nuts at HD. I would also pick-up a 2x6 and some bungee cords and nylon rope. I would drill the 2x6 for the studs and fasten the clamps to the 2x6 using the studs, washers and nuts. Use the bungee cords to fasten around the supports and attach to the wheel wells. Use the nylon rope to secure the whole rig to the car. I would use the Bogen 3063 head and attach it to the 2x6. Drill the 2x6 and attach using 3/8 inch bolt and washers and nut. If you have a different head, just substitute your head. You might want to consider the 3295 quick release. it comes with metal wire you can use to secure the camera to the 2x6 for security. Jeff

March 20th, 2003, 04:13 PM	#11
John Jay Major Player Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: US & THEM Posts: 827	shooting from car i got a shoot from inside a car coming up the camera will be held via a suction pod on the door glass and wound down to poke out at fresh air. car will be travelling at around 30mph my questions are what the best shutter speed for this? should steadyshot be used? __________________ John Jay Beware *PLUGGER-BYTES*

March 20th, 2003, 05:54 PM	#12
Dylan Couper Wrangler Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Vancouver, British Columbia Posts: 8,314	I'd stick with 1/60th. A fast shutter might give you that strobe look, probably not what you want. Experiment with the steadyshot. I'd assume it would be useful. __________________ Need to rent camera gear in Vancouver BC? Check me out at camerarentalsvancouver.com

March 20th, 2003, 06:07 PM	#13
Alex Taylor Major Player Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 390	I would definitely say keep steadyshot on. The only time you should have it off is when the camera is stationary like on a tripod.. a suction pod is kind of stationary, but the car is moving so it's probably going to move around a bit. __________________ alextaylor.org

March 21st, 2003, 09:14 AM	#14
Bill Pryor Contributor Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 4,449	Yes, use the steadyshot; it will help absorb some of the vibration you'll get. Use the standard shutter speed for your camera, unless you want a special effect. A slower one at that speed will give you strobing and some blur. There is one cool effect you can do if you want...use a really slow shutter, like 1/8, and if you're going the same speed as the object you're shooting, it will be sharp and all the background stuff will be blurred. I've never tried that from a car but have done it hand held.

June 9th, 2003, 02:22 PM	#15
Hugh DiMauro Trustee Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,207	Exterior Video Car Camera Mounts I've seen a few exterior video car mounts and I'm puzzled. Has anybody ever used one of these contraptions? I thought that the video camera electronics components can't take the buffeting of a car mount, i.e. every time the car hits a dip the pictre gets momentarily snowy or "squiggly" (for lack of a better term). Not to mention the damage to your camera from the contant banging. Any thoughts? I'm scared to death to put my XL1S on that thing.