A Couple Questions About the EX1R

[Will Boggs]

Does the EX1R output a signal from the HDMI and the SDI simultaneously?

Also, when the manual/servo switch is on manual, can you snap zoom like the Panasonic cams or is the lens still operated by electronics like the Canon XF300/305?

Thanks for the help.

[Jack Zhang]

No, the HDMI and SDI do not output simultaneously. However, if you get something like a nanoFlash, you can use the SDI or HDMI output on the EX1R and come out as both SDI and HDMI on the nanoFlash.

The manual zoom on the EX1R is snap zoom capable. (AKA Non-Servo/Physical) The switch on the bottom basically moves in and out the gear for the servo.

[Will Boggs]

Thanks Jack.

Another few questions; I know the lens has a maximum aperture of f1.9 on the wide end. Does it stop down as you zoom in or does it hold f1.9 all the way?

What aftermarket batteries are you guys using that work well?

[Jack Zhang]

Manual iris will not automatically stop down the iris as it zooms in. Auto iris doesn't do it in low light but it may be a different story outside. I haven't field tested auto iris outside since I always use manual iris.

I'm currently using a Swit S-8U62. The only quirk with aftermarket batteries is that you have to plug it into a DC IN, because if you use it with the battery's power plug in (for charging), the camera will throw you a "Battery Error" since the battery can't provide authentic Sony battery data to the camera.

Another thing to keep in mind is that your battery level is measured in voltage, not minutes. 13V should be the lowest you go on these batteries before recharging. They start around 16V.

Switronix also sells a 96w battery that sticks out like a brick, but it will last you an entire day if it's powering the camera alone.

[Will Boggs]

Yeah, wasn't thinking. I know it won't physically stop down as the lens is zoomed. How much light does the lens loose when it is set at f1.9 and zoomed to full tele? Does it loose a stop or two?

[Les Wilson]

Only Sony batteries work with the internal battery slot and show minutes. OEM batteries use the Hirose plug and you measure the power in voltage as previously mentioned. The SWIT batteries also have a d-Tap connector for powering other devices such as lights.

[Andre Bernet]

Originally Posted by Will Boggs

Yeah, wasn't thinking. I know it won't physically stop down as the lens is zoomed. How much light does the lens loose when it is set at f1.9 and zoomed to full tele? Does it loose a stop or two?

The lens is constant F1.9 throughout the zoom range.

[Pietro Jona]

Constant F1.9 is what the camera is telling you. I'd say that in full tele maximum aperture is F2.8.

[Alister Chapman]

Actually it stops down by about a stop across the whole range. It's most noticeable from 40mm. It's only about one stop (or a little less) so often won't notice it.

[Andre Bernet]

Really? Would be pretty strange that the camera information doesn't reflect it...
Reported aperture always stays at F1.9 unlike when variable max aperture lenses are used.

[Alister Chapman]

Just try it for yourself. Turn on the centre box meter, place it on a non overexposed object with the lens wide open and zoom in. You'll see the exposure level decrease as you zoom in.

The iris may well be at f1.9 but the lens is clearly choking down as you zoom. 1 stop over a 14x zoom ratio is pretty good when you compare it to most other low cost zooms. Look at DSLR lenses that loose 2 or 3 stops over 5x or 8x ranges. Even many high end broadcast zooms will loose a stop over the full range.

[Jack Zhang]

That's what I immediately noticed coming from consumer HDV palm sized cameras. I honestly picture-wise didn't notice a change in brightness from wide to tele since it is only one stop. But you will see it with a Histogram or the Brightness display.

I did learn that using ND2 with a wide aperture in bright conditions isn't really recommended focus wise... That's a DOP thing though and might not be camera specific.

[Andre Bernet]

Originally Posted by Alister Chapman

Just try it for yourself. Turn on the centre box meter, place it on a non overexposed object with the lens wide open and zoom in. You'll see the exposure level decrease as you zoom in.

Indeed, interesting.

Originally Posted by Alister Chapman

Look at DSLR lenses that loose 2 or 3 stops over 5x or 8x ranges.

Yeah, but it's mentioned when they do. I know my Sigma 18-125mm F3.5-5.6 has a max aperture of F3.5 at 18mm, and F5.6 at 125mm. My Sony 16-80 is F3.5-4.5. But, a 16-50 F2.8 would be F2.8 throughout the range.

In video, for example my now sold HDR-FX7 would report an F1.7 aperture at the wide end, that would progressively go down when zooming to F2.8 at the long end. Which is why it seemed strange.

I guess the EX1's lens really is constant F1.9, thus this value being used for DOF calculation purposes among others, but the difference is just the lens being a tad less efficient at transmitting light when zooming in.
And yes, we're VERY far from having constant aperture 14x zooms in the still image world, so a stop of loss isn't that bad - especially considering the EX1 isn't the best choice for zooming shots anyway with that clunky gear drive. One of my biggest regrets with that camera...

I did learn that using ND2 with a wide aperture in bright conditions isn't really recommended focus wise... That's a DOP thing though and might not be camera specific.

DOF, and also the fact that lenses are always a bit sharper when stopped down a stop or 2 from their maximum aperture.

[Jack Zhang]

DOF, and also the fact that lenses are always a bit sharper when stopped down a stop or 2 from their maximum aperture.

Both apply. It's something you got to learn as a Director of Photography (DOP) about Depth of Field. (DOF)