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June 2nd, 2003, 12:55 PM | #1 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: St. Paul, MN USA
Posts: 151
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Another Shutter Speed
Did 6 month search but didn't see answer. BBC and Urban Fox and other helpful sources say something like "fast shutter speeds should not be used with VX2000 --different from NTSC 60 for instance---since they give a strange look." I tried out various speeds in AES ( i.e. 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000) on my dog running in park (old dog so not running real fast) in bright sunlight and I could not distinquish a problem with the video "look." I am new to all this and so don't know the subtle things to look for. I did of course notice that still frames were less blurred the faster the shutter speed which relates to recent question about getting stills of baseball game action. So, what should I be looking for in terms of viewing video that would indicate a problem using fast shutter speeds to capture fast action (i.e. racecars)? Or, am I misinterpreting BBC, Urban Fox and other comments??
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June 2nd, 2003, 01:47 PM | #2 |
Outer Circle
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Hope, BC
Posts: 7,524
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Depending how fast the action is, if it's very fast, you'll want to use a shutter speed of 100 to 250 in natural light. With common artificial light, 60 cycle, you'll get flickering with high shutter speeds; with low shutter speeds, 1/30th & 1/15, you will get less to no flickering, from what I can tell, if you do not zoom, pan and tilt, and tripod mounted---but with slower (normal) subject speeds. If you pan etc, what's the word, those parts will smear---nice effect, though.
Anyway, I would try shooting at 100 for fast action. If it blurs/smears, try one setting faster etc. |
June 2nd, 2003, 01:49 PM | #3 |
Wrangler
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Mays Landing, NJ
Posts: 11,802
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I've noticed sort of a "strobelight" effect in some fast shutter speed sequences. Specifically, shooting from a moving car on a tree-lined road. The trees appear to have multiple copies that sort of flicker in a disconcerting, jerky way. Also another sequence of the sun sparkling on the water produced a sort of "grainy" look that was annoying. Other than that I haven't noticed many problems. Just like anything else, try it, look at it, then use it if you like it! :-)
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June 2nd, 2003, 01:53 PM | #4 |
High School Student
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Canton, Ohio, USA
Posts: 609
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The only reasons NOT to use a faster shutter speed are:
1. If there's not enough light avalible. 2. If your under flouresent lighting (it will flicker). 3. If you want the frames more blurred, which can help with the "film look"... Reasons to USE a faster shutter speed are: 1. Like you mentioned, if it's fast action, you can freeze the frames, and the movement will be sharp. 2. If you want to slow the video down. 3. Using a faster shutter speed will require more light, so you can open the aperature, giving you a shallower depth of field -- ofcourse a real 35mm film DOF is pretty hard to achieve, even with a 2/3" camera... 3. Erm...there's some other good reasons why too, I just cant think right now. :D Anyway, the "look" they might be talking about, would be caused by all of the motion in the frames being sharp, and not blurred, and the movement can sometimes have a different feel... I'm pretty sure every camera has a "sports mode", and basically all them do is raise the shutter speed. Don't use a fast shutter speed if your not outside in bright daylight, or have another bright light source, though. Check your exposure when you do use a faster shutter speed, to make sure it doesn't go into any gain... To really be able to freeze the action, you'll want to use a 1/500 shutter speed or faster. I often use a 1/2000 in daylight, without having to add gain, and without the aperature having to open all the way. |
June 2nd, 2003, 08:03 PM | #5 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: St. Paul, MN USA
Posts: 151
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Shutter Speed
As I get time I am doing more experimenting with camera settings and appreciate input from more experienced users as to what I should watch for or watch out for in various settings and situations--i.e. the "strobelight" and smearing and when to use and not use comments from Boyd, Frank, Alex. Alex, the "look" you mention of "sharper" frames giving different look may be what I have been trying to describe in context of using progressive scan shooting. There is definitely a different look beside that caused by 15 fps speed and maybe it is the "sharper" look combined with 15 fps that I am trying to describe. I did "pause" several of the frames I shot in progressive scan and in some areas of high contrast borders I also notice a sort of jittering look just in those areas--rest of picture perfectly "still." Another way that one viewer described my progressive scan video was that it had an "impressionistic" look like French painter that painted using many closer spaced color dots--Seurat? Anyhow, thanks for input.
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