Additional kit I will need on my new FS100

[Geoff Jak]

I've just bought a Sony NEX FS100 from Globalmediapro and need some advice on additional geat to go with it.

Filters -
GlobalMediaPro make a range of filters and I need a variable grad 2-400 and a UV Slim Filter (both 67mm).

Just wondering of anyone has bought these and what the image quality looks like. Colour cast?, lack of sharpness with these? The price seems just too good to be true but amazing things are happening these days with price/quality so if you have any info about these or other filters I'd appreciate it.

Carry case - can you suggest a sturdy one that has worked for you with the FS100 snuggly in place with it's 18-200 and mic on top right.

Extra battery - what about the Dynacore DV-6S - less expensive than a Sony NP970 with a little more juice. The Globalmediapro range are even chaeper but do they have the punch and longevity of a Sony battery?- the DC1170C is huge at 65WH and I gather will power a hand light.

A Nikkor to Sony lens adapter (or two). I've got Nikkor zooms and primes. Two DX format zooms - an AF-S 18-70 f3.5-4.5 and 70-300 f4.5-5.6 G zoom, three A1 full frame manual primes, a f2.8 24mm, a 55mm f3.5 macro (a tac sharp A1 prime) and 50 f1.4 (that should be fun!), a AF Nikkor ED 180mm f2.8 and finally a Nikkor AF Teleconverter TC-16A. That's my starting kit along with the 18-200 that ships with the camera. Hoping for an adapter that will give me infinity on all Nikkors and hold zoom focus through the range. I am wondering of I should buy a follow focus kit for these lenses due to the Nikkors having the opposite focus direction. Is there an adapter out there that will lock my DX zooms to auto aperture and focus.

Lastly - How do you secure your FS100 to the tripod? What about a Sony type quick release plate or similar. Nothing worse than fiddling around getting a camera on or off the base-plate when you need it in a hurry.

If there is a fundamental I've left out please let me know.

Cant wait to start using the camera and really appreciate your comments.

[Bill Pryor]

You'll need a set of ND filters, or a variable ND. I have a Schneider variable that goes 11 stops, and also some B+W NDs. What I do is put 77mm stepup rings on all my lenses and then buy 77 mm filters and 77mm threaded metal lens caps. That way I can use the ND on any lens. Except that when I got the Zeiss 85mm it came with 82mm threads so I had to buy yet another variable ND.

Don't even think about shooting outdoors without ND filters. The camera only goes down to ISO 500. If someone had told me 20 years ago I'd be complaining about ISOs that were too fast, I'd have said they were nuts.

I don't know of any smart adapters that will make the newer Nikkor lenses work with the camera. Metabones has smart adapters for Canon lenses. All my old Nikkors are manual, and adapters for those are easy and cheap (about $100 for a good one). I have a Metabones smart adapter so the Zeiss ZE lenses think they're on a Canon camera. I also have one Canon lens with IS, the 24-105 and the IS works well with the camera, and thanks to Metabones also the aperture wheel works. Auto focus does not but that's not needed for video anyway.

[Geoff Jak]

Great info Bill. Thx

Yes the variable ND for sure. I messed up when I said I needed a variable grad 2-400 when it should have read variable ND. I had heard about this astonishing 500 iso setting and like you 20 years ago a minimum of 500 iso was unthinkable.

Regarding the Nikkors, I am seriously wondering if I should migrate over to Canon. As much as I have been a Nikon guy since the mid 80's they are not keeping their eye on the growing trend towards fusion of the two mediums. Canon has successfully merged both with the ability to seamlessly use their lenses on both stills and motion image platforms, far more so than Nikon have ventured. And it seems a growing trend.

I'd still be interested in hearing from ppl as to the quality of the Globalmediapro glass. If it is good, it will save be time and a bundle buy buying from one supplier across the ditch.
Cheers

[Chris Harding]

Hey Geoff

I would nothing under a Genus Variable ND .. remember the wedding you did with me on the Swan river?
All that footage outside was RED! IR contamination and those ND's were around $100 a pop!!

No use putting a cheap ND on top of a decent lens is there??

Novoflex adapters work well as you only want a dumb adapter..In fact on my 2nd cam I have a real cheap FOTOGA NIK-NEX and it needed a bit of sanding as the powder coating was too thick but it works like a dream ...I don't think I will ever go the Metabones route ..too many people expect it to work in full auto and have brilliant AF which it doesn't ...rather stay the dumb adapter route and shoot manual

Chris

[Paul Wood]

Hi Geoff,
I also use higher quality variable ND filters - I found colour issues with the cheaper ones - Genus is good, or Heliopan. I would also go for a larger diameter filter - mine are 77mm with step down rings, as this gives you more flexibility.
I only use Sony batteries on my cameras - knock offs for lighting etc.

For fixing to a tripod, the Sony plates are a solid idea, and you should also look a base plates, especially if you are thinking of adding follow focus. I chose the Genus system, but in retrospect, this makes the camera quite high for shoulder use - have a look at the plates from Westside AV - good value, and have the benefit of a shoulder pad.

I use Novoflex NIK/NEX adaptors - it may be worth a look at the Metabones - I have not used it, but I agree with Chris about the lack of electronic connection - all my Nikon and Samyang lenses are manual, and I prefer working with them like that.

Lastly, you might want to look at replacing the top handle/mic holder - a quick search of the FS100 thead will give ideas. I use the Shootingmachine system, and am very please with it.

Let me know if you have any more questions!

[Chris Harding]

Hey Paul

Just a slightly off-topic on the Novoflex ? Mine is getting a bit sloppy on the lens side and often now moves a bit messing up the aperture setting ...Is there any way you can adjust/shim the adapter so the lenses are a tighter fit?

My cheap adapter was the opposite ..way too tight so I just sanded it down a bit ,,it made the chrome finish dull but the lenses now slide on nicely but don't turn on their own like the Novoflex

...and Geoff, look at the new Sigma 18-35 F1.8 ..it's a killer lens and under $1K too!!!

Chris

[Dave Sperling]

Remember, most still camera zoom lenses are not parfocal, so they will tend not to hold focus when zooming no matter what adapter you use. I have a bunch of Nikon mount zooms, but the only ones I have that hold focus are the Nikon 17-35 2.8 and Tokina 11-16 2.8.

[Paul Wood]

Hi Chris,

Sorry, my adaptors tend to ¨live on the lens - I do change them , but not very often, so haven't come across this issue - I suggest you contact Novoflex (service@novoflex.com) - they seem pretty helpful.

[Chris Harding]

Thanks Paul

So do mine! but I do change lenses on most days so the front (lens side) of the adaptor gets the wear, not the e-mount side.

Thanks for the help

Chris

[Geoff Jak]

Ok, thx guys. I am loving all this valuable info streaming in.

Just bought the Tiffen ND variable. Bought the 67mm for the zoom with an adapter for Nikkor primes 52mm. Re the lens adapter, it's ok that the auto wont happen on the Nikkors, I was brought up on Arri BL, CP16 and Aaton LTR7 so manual is OK by me.

Next tick off the list has got to be the Nikkor adapter and those Sony FP790's have been around for years now and I know from past camera's I could reply upon them always.

What about a camera carry case guys? I know there's a heap of them out there but whats your preferred one.

Hey BTW, what's the quality of the onboard mike like?
Thx still

[Matt Davis]

Sorry to be late to the party.

The very first thing you should do is shorten the chimney viewfinder. Doing this transforms it from liability to useful tool. (

How to shorten the Sony FS 100 Viewfinder? on Vimeo

- hint, turn off audio straight away). I strongly recommend doing this.

If I had my time again, I'd have stuck to Nikkor mount, and Nikkor glass. Manual iris control counts for a lot. I'm now stuck firmly in the Canon EF mount world and that's limiting my choices at the moment, and I really want lenses that are 'de-clicked'. You can ride the iris on a manual Nikkor. EF glass is stepped in 1/6th stop increments, and you can't hide the change. I had the MTF Nikkor mount that manually actuated the G-style lenses, and whilst this could suffer a bit of light leak in bright sun in certain orientations, you could cure it with a simple 'wristband' sock thing. Your investment in Nikkors would pay off as they work on gosh-darn anything.

When shooting voxpops and anything over my own eyeline, I found having an EVF on a Noga Arm essential. I used a Zacuto EVF, but I think there are better units to recommend now.

You may want to look into a Ninja Star recorder, if only as a 'backup' recorder. I'd go for that over the Sony 128GB thing. If you test the difference between the internal AVCHD recording and an external recorder using static charts and still life setups, you won't notice much visible difference, but when the going gets tough, with handheld shots and high detail scenes, that's where the difference starts to shine through.

Lens support - if you're into f2.8 80-200 zooms, you need a good quality baseplate with rods and a lens support. The eMount is tough, but only so far. As soon as you add a Metabones adaptor, there's two points of flex, and the weight of serious glass will stress both. Failure is a matter of 'when' not 'if'. :)

Mic Pre-amp - e.g. Sound Devices MP-1 or Mix-Pre D if you're feeling flush. The Sony microphone pre-amps are not the best in the world. Not the worst by any means, but once you've worked with a sound guy on your FS100, you'll hear the difference of feeding the FS100 a good quality line level signal vs plugging in a microphone and letting the camera deal with it:

Mic Pre-amp test on Vimeo

You may also find a few bits and bobs in the following:

FS100 - In Depth - FS100 In Depth - Part 1: Overview

[Chris Harding]

I've got EA-50's and yes, I have already told Geoff about modding the viewing tube ..it made the world of difference to my cameras even if they are not FS100's

I find it weird that the audio section is not up to scratch ..I get awesome audio from my 50's so I'm surprised the 100 doesn't have the same quality!! Does the FS700 have the same preamp issues?

Chris

[Matt Davis]

From my brief time with the FS700, I didn't find the audio I shot to be 'flat' or dull or lifeless, but I sadly never did the same test as I did with the FS100. As an owner of the PD150, PD170, Z1, EX1, EX1R, FS100 and briefly an FS700, I'm aware that the mic pre-amps aren't the best - my Canon C100 is better, as are the C300s I rent. Both cases fade into oblivion compared to when I'm working with a sound guy. The sound guy puts the right mic in the right place in the right direction and puts it through a device that costs as much as many cameras, and it always sounds sweeter straight out of the box than my own attempts.

It's not that the audio section is 'not up to scratch' - it's just that the audio section is adequate for videography, but once you've heard 'good' audio off your own recordings, you're kinda spoiled for life.

[Geoff Jak]

Thx for the info guys.
I have one Nikkor to NX lens adapter and think I might take the advice of Chris and buy one more so that I can change lenses on the fly rether than messing around and maybe missing a shot.

And that extension viewfinder - I'll take you advice and shorten that too. Thx for the video Matt. Still to check out the audio on the camera but will now be aware of its limitations.

Keep it coming Im all ears at this stage. Cheers Geoff

[Chris Harding]

Hi Geoff

The tube shortening is pretty simple but you WILL need a jewellers screwdriver and the screws are really tiny! If you don't want to go permanent like me then when you reassemble just wrap some black plastic electrical tape around the tube to hold everything together and keep the middle bit in case you want to change back! I went the more secure route and put a lick of Quikset Epoxy on the joint and then one neat strip of tape around that and it's a year now and nothing has shifted. The Velcro mod shown in the video looks very messy!!

Chris