Sony NEX-FS100 on the Glidecam HD-2000 - video

[Piotr Wozniacki]

Originally Posted by Derran Rootring

No problem! :)
With these settings the iris stayed around F10 and above.

With the "and above" part most of the time, I dare say, Derran :)

With an F2.8 lens, no ND, and the shutter speed fixed at 1/100th, I'd expect the FS100 to go as high as F22+ on AE... Which only helped you to keep virtually everything in focus.

But as I say - the material you posted is superb, and makes me lust for a similar rig...

Piotr

[Cees van Kempen]

Originally Posted by Thomas Wong

Do you use Slow Motion mode to capture this video? it looks very smooth and slow

In another thread derran once explained that he shot interlaced, which makes a glidecam shoot much more smooth than when shooting progressive. I suppose that is the case in this video as well? If so, please be aware that you might not get the same 'smoothnes' when shooting progressive. Camera movement me be as smooth, but there will be more judder.

[Cees van Kempen]

Derran, some time before you posted a similar thread, using the Merlin Steadicam. How do they compare when using the fs100?

[Derran Rootring]

Originally Posted by Piotr Wozniacki

With the "and above" part most of the time, I dare say, Derran :)

You might have a point there! ;)

Cees, you're right I shot this in 50i. I really don't like the 25p look when filming (with or without stabilizer and / or tripod) and my editing application can't handle 50p footage. So I choose 50i for the FS100.

The FS100 on the Merlin or on the Glidecam is a bit difficult to compare, like comparing apples and oranges. I really like both stabilizers and they both have their strong points. The Merlin is easier to hold thanks to the weight being right above your hand instead of holding it from the side like the Glidecam. But the Merlin is more sensitive to wind and touch, compared to the Glidecam. The Glidecam also feels much more solid and does a fantastic job in isolating the camera from your body. The Merlin is more compact then the Glidecam and is easier to carry around, but t's more difficult to balance. In between shots it's easy to put the Glidecam on the ground to take a break, but the Merlin has a different shape that makes it difficult to put it down somewhere, unless you have their camera bag that holds the Merlin in folded position with camera mounted on top. But it's another item to carry around.

[Piotr Wozniacki]

Derran, your experience with various stabilizers is invaluable :)

Now, please imagine your neck spine and right arm is much, much weaker than it really is - which one of the two would you pick? Please, also add a vest into the equation...

Thanks,

Piotr

[Piotr Wozniacki]

One more idea / question, related to camera stabilizer use. Correct me if I'm wrong, but one of the most uncomfortable and difficult things about it framing. Using the camera's own LCD is most straightforward - but it has only one advantage: the rig doesn't take on the additional weight of a monitor, battery and cabling. Visibility in bright sunshine must be very poor, though...

On the other hand, putting an extra monitor on the stabilized rig is out of question - at least for me, due to the limitations mentioned above in this thread. So I've been wondering:

- how about some clever method of attaching an EVF like Zacuto to the operator's head, with the eyecup permanently against his eye?

Is something like that available out there in the market? Or is my idea impractical?

Piotr

Edit Just tried to mock up something around my Zacuto EVF, and it's definitely impractical - not with this size/weight of a viewfinder... But I'm sure some lightweight and flexible display will be around soon to make such a HUD possible...

[Derran Rootring]

Originally Posted by Piotr Wozniacki

Now, please imagine your neck spine and right arm is much, much weaker than it really is - which one of the two would you pick? Please, also add a vest into the equation...

Piotr, I'll try to answer your question to the best of my knowledge, but would also like to take another stabilizer into the equation: the Blackbird stabilizer. I received it last week for review purposes and will be testing it more thoroughly this coming week. From what I've seen so far it might be a good stabilizer for your specific needs. No matter which stabilizer you'll choose, it's best to keep the weight as low as possible and I would like to suggest to use the 16mm pancake lens only. You can always add the ultra wide converter later in time if you think the extra weight won't be a problem. Also use the lightest camera battery you can find for the FS100 and remove the side handle to keep the camera as light as possible.

One question, would you be able to try out a stabilizer at a local camera shop? This way you can feel for yourself whether it's not putting too much strain on your neck spine and arm. Perhaps it's best to consult a physical therapist or doctor before going this route?

The good thing with stabilizers is that you can use either arm to carry the weight. In your case you could use your left arm to hold the stabilizer and your right hand to control the camera. When using the Steadicam arm and vest you can also mount the arm on either side of the vest. But using an arm and vest system, especially in the beginning, will give muscle pain in your back, because you will have to use muscles you've never used before. Putting it on is also asking a lot of flexibility.

About the monitor question. I like your idea of using an EVF, but I think it's best to use both eyes when walking around with a stabilizer for seeing depth. I've always used the LCD screen of the FS100 and never had a problem with it. Having it on the back of the camera (instead of on the side) is also very convenient. Using a LCD hood might be a good idea to block some direct sunlight. I'm still searching for the right hood and I'm thinking about the Hoodman H400.

[Piotr Wozniacki]

Hi Derran,

Thank you so much for your elaborated answer - lots of good advise I'll definitely keep in mind while trying to choose a stabilizer. Of course - as they are not cheap devices, especially with vests - I'll arrange for a proper testing before paying for one...

Cheers,

Piotr

[Piotr Wozniacki]

Derran, or anyone using the 16mm pancake with converter:

- is it possible to use a 49mm filter between the pancake lens, and the converter?

[Derran Rootring]

Unfortunately not, Piotr.
I have a ND filter for the 16mm, but when the ultra wide converter needs to be attached, you'll have to remove the filter first or the bayonet mechanism won't work.