|
|||||||||
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
November 15th, 2010, 09:34 PM | #1 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sun Valley, Idaho
Posts: 81
|
First impressions
I hope everyone will chime in with their impression
Well I took the vg10 out today and did a bit of filming my daughter taking a dressage lesson. Really the first time I have used it in an "event-like" scenario. I used the standard 18-200, and a monopod. I'll just pass over the fact it does not have a strong tripod screw--it's fine on the monopod--you just wonder when it's going to break. Bottom line: it was much nicer than I feared. On a monopod the manual zoom is totally usable. AF is generally very good, though once in awhile it gets lost. It is easy to switch to MF on the fly--well not as easy as it should be, two clicks instead of one, but it's fine. DOF control is great in A mode while recording. Exposure comp works fine. Mic as you know is outstanding, I mean REALLY outstanding. Fun to switch to photo mode where the motor drive is fast and continous. It is very light which makes everything easier. Stabilization: I had both systems on and it was also quite good. I'm coming from years of event work with a PD 170 and VX2K, and I have to say I already like it WAY better, though battlefield conditions might change my mind, hehe. I have a Nex-5 and my idea is to eventally use both at events, with various lenses: fast primes for low light. Oh yeah the LCD is spectacular, I don't use EVFs ever, but that seems OK. In fact as this point the only things I would really scream about to sony are the tripod mount (inexcusable) and the slightly loose emounting system for the 18200. Watching the images afterwards: very crisp and gorgeous DOF. I never did try the DSLRs, so it's a real revelation to me. I'm not sending it back, hehe |
November 17th, 2010, 04:19 PM | #2 |
Major Player
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lewisham, London, United Kingdom
Posts: 408
|
agreed on all points. Really enjoying myself with this cam.
Just to add, I've used this on a few jobs where it's been recording continuously for 90 minutes plus in warm conditions without overheating. |
November 18th, 2010, 06:21 PM | #3 |
Trustee
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Posts: 1,418
|
How well do you find it handles highlights?
I'm thinking about getting the camera tomorrow at B&H and have been pouring over online footage (YouTube-yuck) and there's a video called "Sony Handycam NEX-VG1 lens demo" and it shows the Sony 70-400 lens on some sort of crested bird (30 seconds into video) that shows some serious highlight blowouts and was wondering if this is typical of highlight handling? Thanks~ Steve |
November 18th, 2010, 06:40 PM | #4 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sun Valley, Idaho
Posts: 81
|
Honestly, i have not noticed that, but you're prolly more picky than me. Exposure comp is easy, as is manual gain.
Today I shot some video with the nex-5 and a soligar 135mm f/2 on a 501 manfrutto head, totally watchable following dogs at play (as I struggled with the focus). I did not think I could use such a long unstabilised lens for video, but it's plenty steady for event work. I hope to use that lens to film dancing in natural light. Also a ND filter might help with highlight issues in the sun, I still need to get one. |
November 18th, 2010, 07:23 PM | #5 |
Major Player
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lewisham, London, United Kingdom
Posts: 408
|
It looks like a lot of the youtube videos are running on "aperture priority mode" because they want to maximise depth of field without having the hassle of using full manual settings - from having a quick tinker with the various auto modes that does seem to blow out the highlights a bit. But as long as you stick to full manual settings the camera is just fine. Agree that an ND filter might be a good idea to allow the iris to stay as open as possible in bright light, but at the same time I'm a bit reticent to put more glass between the camera and the image than absolutely necessary.
|
November 18th, 2010, 08:37 PM | #6 |
Trustee
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Posts: 1,418
|
Thanks guys- I'm fairly certain I'll get one tomorrow........hopefully I can keep the highlights in check.....looks to be an interesting camera with fantastic imagery.
|
November 19th, 2010, 12:33 AM | #7 |
Trustee
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Coronado Island
Posts: 1,472
|
IMO, the big problem with the VG10, exposure wise, is that it works just like a consumer handicam:
It has no internal ND filters like the prosumer & pro cams, so it can only trade off shutter and aperture. If you shoot wide aperture in bright daylight, your shutter can be running @ 1/1000- not a problem for stills, but certainly less than desireable for video. My compromise solution is to use a variable ND filter for all daylight shooting. I set the shutter at the desired speed (typically 1/60 for me), and use the variable ND to dial in the desired aperture. It's a work around, but it enables the camera to handle exposure more as the bigger pro cams do. I haven't seen myself, or heard about any real downside re image quality. And why should there be- ND filters are constantly being slipped in and out of the optical path of all of the pro cams. It's rather SOP.
__________________
Bob |
November 19th, 2010, 04:06 PM | #8 |
Trustee
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Posts: 1,418
|
I purchased one at B&H but haven't had the chance to shoot with it yet.....but I'm excited by the possibilities.
I've ordered a Nikon (G) to NEX adapter to use a Sigma 50-500 lens I happen to have and would like to know how does one go about tripod mounting the setup......I assume as with a dslr- you hang the VG10 off the rear of the lens as this lens is huge? I'm not too comfortable letting the camcorder body just hang in the air like this- any other methods for support of the long lens and cam body? Thanks |
November 20th, 2010, 01:00 AM | #9 |
Trustee
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Coronado Island
Posts: 1,472
|
You could use a rail setup, but I think the body is quite light, small, and very firmly attached to the lens.
I doubt there would be a problem with the lens/tripod mount- just like a DSLR.
__________________
Bob |
November 22nd, 2010, 03:34 AM | #10 |
Major Player
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lewisham, London, United Kingdom
Posts: 408
|
My apologies, Robert. This is my first interchangeable lens camera. Out of interest what ND filter are you using?
|
November 22nd, 2010, 12:01 PM | #11 |
Trustee
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Coronado Island
Posts: 1,472
|
The Singh Ray VariND.
There are less expensive variable NDs, I don't know how they compare quality wise, etc.
__________________
Bob |
November 22nd, 2010, 01:40 PM | #12 | |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sun Valley, Idaho
Posts: 81
|
Quote:
Light Craft Workshop Fader ND filter supposedly works well, have not tried it yet. |
|
November 22nd, 2010, 01:52 PM | #13 |
Trustee
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Coronado Island
Posts: 1,472
|
One caviet- if you get a 67mm variable ND, be certain that it will not vignette when the lens is at full wide angle.
I have the 77mm with a step up ring- definitely not a problem with vignetting. It would be great if someone with the 67mm filter could report in on this potential issue.
__________________
Bob |
November 22nd, 2010, 02:44 PM | #14 |
Major Player
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lewisham, London, United Kingdom
Posts: 408
|
Many thanks for the info. Very helpful and much appreciated. Hopefully the dismal beige British weather should save me from needing to choose an ND filter until I can find out whether there are any vignetting issues with the 67mm ;)
|
November 24th, 2010, 03:34 AM | #15 | |
HDV Cinema
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 4,007
|
Quote:
When I use MY lightmeter -- an ISO of 150 matches the VG10 settings exactly. Therefore, to prevent overexposure, I use an ISO of 200 (-1/3) to 300 (-1) relative to 150. Remember that all meters AVERAGE -- so if there is only a small white face in front of a dark wall -- it will be overexposed. That's why I use a RANGE of 200 to 300. Actually, I use two ranges: 200 to 250 (-1/3 to -2/3) for a video look and 250 to 300 (-2/3 to -1) for a film look. The latter crushes the blacks a bit. If I don't want to hassle, I use ISO 250. Which on the camera is either -1/3 (video look) or -2/3 (film look). Bottom-line, you MUST use EC and if you are trying to get a perfect exposure you have to think about what you see in the scene before you set it. It really is like shooting film! PS: using the proper ISO increases the dynamic range.
__________________
Switcher's Quick Guide to the Avid Media Composer >>> http://home.mindspring.com/~d-v-c |
|
| ||||||
|
|