Switch to EA50 from HDV?

[Matt Bigwood]

Has anyone moved from HDV to the EA50? I currently use a Sony Z7 and an S270, both 1/3 inch HDV cameras, and the EA50's larger chip appeals to me to be able to throw the background out of focus more easily.

I plan on trying out an EA50 soon, but the lack of ND filters bothers me slightly.

Also, does anyone shoot a two camera set-up with an EA50 and NEX5 or NEX7, as I wondered how well the footage matches - the reason I use the Z7 and S270 is that they use the same chips and the pictures match straight away.

[James Manford]

I used to use a EA50 and NEX 5n then switched to a VG20.

Then switched to using a EA50 and CX760 handycam (great low light performer).

Now I shoot with a FS100 and CX760

The EA50 is definitely a great camera, but I managed to part exchange my EA50 with a little bit of cash on top for a FS100 just to gain that extra f stop in lowlight.

Definitely buy the EA50. The ergonomics will be familiar to you. And you will love the creative aspect due to shallow depth of field etc.

And any of the NEX cameras will be fine as a B cam in my opinion. Although with the NEX cameras that you refer too they do overheat very quickly so I would opt for a VG10, 20 or 30.

[Matt Bigwood]

Thanks for the information. I have been using a Nikon D800 with the two HDV camera, but it has been far from ideal - audio issues, limited recording time, overheating and having to spend time trying to match the picture with the two Sony cameras.

The EA50 appeals on a number of levels - form factor, built in XLRs etc.

I read a review online which said it suffers from severe rolling shutter - is that the case?

[Chris Harding]

Hi Matt

Rolling shutter is rubbish!! Most cameras with CMOS sensors have software to stop that so it's an old wive's tale!

A 1/3rd chip camera HAS to use ND filters because the small sensor causes the image to degrade at any aperture smaller than F8 ..some cameras are manual, some are auto but in practice, the aperture seldom closes much further than F5.6 or F6.3

Now a camera with an APS-C chip can quite easily handle F16 with no image degradation so no ND's are required. It depends on your usage of course but yes, you CAN add ND filters if you prefer fast movement to have motion blur or you are specifically looking to keep the lens fully open for shallow DOF.

I have done weddings on both EA-50's for 12 months now as well as realty shoots which has racked up nearly 500 hours combined and I often have exposures of 1/10,000 shutter and F16 and the image is absolutely pristine ... I shot once with ND's and had huge issues with IR contamination so buy really top of the range ones if you must use them! I personally never use them !!

For me the EA-50 has everything I need (and more) compared to all my previous cameras .. they are the first cameras I honestly find hard to fault!!

The stock zoom is a little slow in low light but with a manual adapter I can use all my Nikon lenses from my still cameras.... At weddings I can therefore get awesome super wide shots with my fast Tokina 11-16 zoom or any lens I choose..... As James mentions the FS100 will give you any extra stop but for me the form factor really sucks for my kind of run 'n gun work... I love the shoulder mount!!

Try one for yourself!!

Chris

[Matt Bigwood]

Thanks Chris, the info on the rolling shutter is very useful. I will certainly try an EA50 soon.

[Chris Harding]

Hi Matt

If you have any burning questions just shoot ! After a year with the cameras I have discovered most of it's quirks!!

Chris

[Jon R. Hand]

I agree with everything Chris says, especially the issue of FORM FACTOR. The EA50 is absolutely a winner. DSLR without all the DSLR form factor garbage and headache. A joy to use! With Metabones speedbooster and Canon 24-105, unbelievable awesome combo. My favorite camcorder so far (my twelfth video camera since 1986).
Only issue I'm dealing with (all cameras have issues) is moire. The moire is really terrible sometimes, especially on hand-held shots. Less moire on tripod, but I hate tripods. Minimizing it in Premiere Pro is tedious and time-consuming, and sometimes impossible. Sony should have engineered this better.and charged an extra $500. And yes, many people don't notice the EA50 excessive moire, but that's because they're slobs. I notice it! And it's not good.
But Chris's assessment is excellent.

[Mike Lorushe]

Originally Posted by Chris Harding

A 1/3rd chip camera HAS to use ND filters because the small sensor causes the image to degrade at any aperture smaller than F8 ..some cameras are manual, some are auto but in practice, the aperture seldom closes much further than F5.6 or F6.3

Now a camera with an APS-C chip can quite easily handle F16 with no image degradation so no ND's are required.

How is this the case? Image degradation due to closing apertures is caused by defraction, which is a consequence of the way lenses are designed. This would be an issue on any camera, regardless of sensor size.

[Chris Harding]

Hi Mike

Almost correct! Yes it is caused by defraction but the sensor size dictates how bad it is, not the lens. Grab a 1/3rd or 1/4" chip camera that doesn't have integrated ND filters (most prosumer have ND's that kick in so that when the aperture reads F11 it's actually F5.6 with the integrated 2.5X ND switched automatically in.

Get a pro camera that has NO integrated ND system and switch all the ND's out, set the lens in manual to F16 and then manually adjust shutter for a nice exposure and see how bad the image is ..it goes VERY soft indeed. Barry Green explains the effect in most of his books and why ND's are included on small chip cameras. The larger the sensor area the less the diffraction effect on the image. A 1/3rd chip is maybe around 4mm x 3mm compared to an APS-C chip which is 23mm x 15mm

Chris

[Peter Rush]

Regarding ND filters - i use a Genius variable ND filter and the Xume quick release adapter system - works well for me with my EA50

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Pete

[Lee Berger]

I also switched from the Sony Z7 to the EA50 and much prefer the look. Large size sensor benefits aside, AVCHD is a much better codec than HDV. I still use my my Z7 when I need to do a lot of zooms (I do some apartment complex tour videos from time to time). While the Z7 zoom is not as good as many B4 lenses I've used, it's hands down better than the EA50 Stock lens and my recently purchased E PZ 18-105mm F4 G OSS.

[Noa Put]

double post

[Noa Put]

Originally Posted by Chris Harding

Now a camera with an APS-C chip can quite easily handle F16 with no image degradation so no ND's are required. It depends on your usage of course but yes, you CAN add ND filters if you prefer fast movement to have motion blur or you are specifically looking to keep the lens fully open for shallow DOF.

One reason why you would buy a large sensor camera is that you can get that nice shallow dof small sensor camera's only can achieve while zooming in completely, ND filters are very important in helping to achieve that, when you say you don't need a ND filter with a aps-c camera because you can shoot at f16 all the time with hardly any image degradation then you are better off buying a handicam like a sony cx730, set it to all auto and press the record button :)
Even at f16 in bright sunlight you have to increase the shutter to compensate, in a run and gun situation I would not mind if that is the case because then the content is most important but if I have time to control my camera I definitely will use a expensive nd filter to have my shutter at 1/100 if I shoot at 1080 50p and then I can choose what dof I wish by choosing the appropriate f-stop for a certain shot with the use of a variable nd filter.

ND filters are a very essential tool for any camera if you want to be in control of how your image will look like when shooting outdoors, it doesn't make any sense saying you don't need it.

[Matt Bigwood]

Thanks for the information everyone. I was under the impression that one should keep the shutter speed at 1/50 second, meaning the ND filter would be essential outdoors.

I plan on using my existing Nikkor lenses via an adapter if I buy the camera as a lot of what I shoot is indoor interviews. I also work for a crafting online tv channel and sometimes need to follow a presenter at an exhibition so the ENG type lens would be useful for that.

[Noa Put]

if you shoot at 25p then yes, a shutter of 1/50 should be used, when shooting at 50p that would be 1/100 of a shutter. It doesn't mean you can't deviate from that rule but above settings will give you the most natural looking image on moving objects similar to what your own eyes perceive, you can ofcourse deviate from those rules and change the shutterspeed depending on the effect you are after.

If you buy a nd filter, get the high end ones, they are expensive but cheaper ones will have a negative impact on your image quality.