|
|||||||||
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
![]() |
#1 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: California
Posts: 60
|
Questions for you experienced [Z1] photographers:
Questions for you experienced [Z1] photographers:
In every bright water test I've tried, I've had a hell of a time with proper exposure. Either the subject is exposed and the water is TOTALLY blow-out or, if I expose for the bright reflective water, everything else (namely my subject) is a dark blob. I have the shutter and gain locked off (gain = low; shutter = 1/60) and typically only adjust the iris. I'd rather not rely on the magical processes in post-production, mainly because I'd like to get a proper shot (plus, I don't know how to do a lot of the more sophisticated corrections). As such, If one were to shoot a subject on brightly illuminated whitewater (specifically a kayaker on whitewater) would you: a.) expose for the subject and blow-out the whitewater and attempt to correct in post (I've tried this and can't seem to correct the water)? b.) expose for the bright whitewater, thereby under exposing EVERYTHING else, and again, adjust in post? c.) use a polarizer d.) run screaming to the pub in utter defeat? If a polarizer is the answer (or part of the answer) can anyone suggest a good 72mm bayonet style that will screw onto the Z1? I can't really afford a matte box with all the trimmings at the moment... Cheers! Andrew Stone |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Major Player
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vero Beach
Posts: 392
|
This is coming from a large format (8x10) black and white world, but we always exposed for white. I would try exposing so that you can just see detail in the whitewater and still have the water white. You will have to fill you entire frame with the white water, set your exposure and then compose your scene wirhout changing the exposure settings. In post you can use the levels plugin and try to adjust you blacks and midtones to a more suitable exposure.
Jim |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 93
|
I would go for the polarizer. I have a nice Tiffen screw-in that I bought in a cheap set from 7dayshop. You can also find cheap lenses on Ebay. I was out shooting clouds with my Z1 yesterday and am very happy with the Tiffen.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Northampton, MA
Posts: 184
|
When I shoot at say the ocean and it is not sunrise or sunset I usually have to use a reflector of some kine to light up any subject. I use the same settings as you are it sounds like (no gain and locked 1/60 shutter) and then use ND 2 setting and turn on the zebra to 100+ so that the zebra on the water catches the white foam only as over exposed. That seems ot work pretty well.
And then there is the Shadow/Highlight filter in Prem Pro 1.5 which can do amazing things with backlight problems, but it can be tricky. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 74
|
Circ Polarizer will drastically help you out. Recently bought a Hoya 72mm polarizer off ebay so will report back when I try it out.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
| ||||||
|
|