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May 2nd, 2006, 09:32 AM | #1 |
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HC1 or HC3 PAL to 24p with letus35 - Help!
HC3 PAL with Letus35 flip enhanced for shooting a BW independant low budget but high quality script and post-prod film.
Im very afraid about the PAL fluo lights flickers because the HC3 dont have any shutter controls... then now im thinking about 1- Taking ntsc and give up 4% converting to 24p or 2- Taking a PAL HC1 with shutter control for avoid flickers. (I hope its work) here the good and bad I see for each configuration: - HC1 - Pal - shutter control - poor lowlight and bottom tapeload (awful cause I will be on a rod system with the 35mm adapter) - sound input - good 24p conversion or - HC3 - NTSC - no shutter control (no need anymore) - better lowlight - side tapeload - but bad 24p conversion... I really hope I can get PAL HC3 with no flickers problem cause of the more sharp lowlight result. The adapter and slr lens will eat me a lot of lights... I feel I will need it! One scene of the movie will be in a psychiatric hospital and I will not be able to avoid fluorescent lights there! Thanks ps: the question is: Wich system will be better for my 24p movie? Pal HC1 or Ntsc HC3... Last edited by Philippe Chamberland; May 2nd, 2006 at 02:00 PM. |
May 3rd, 2006, 07:56 AM | #2 |
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ok, not so much success with my post... I will simplify things;
Is theres somebody who have experience shooting PAL in america? Is the easy 24p convertion process balance the fact you have to be careful with flickering lights? |
May 31st, 2006, 12:58 PM | #3 |
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Yes, you can easily de-interlace 50i to 25p, then convert to 24p in any number of NLEs.
heath
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May 31st, 2006, 02:58 PM | #4 |
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No shutter
...did I miss something, "HC3 has NO shutter control..." -is that true?? BOOO, HISS!
www.dvfilm.com states that the 1/50 sec shutter speed is one of the key things to set to get good conversion to 24p / deinterlacing of 50i/60i... OK, with the bottom loader changing tapes on HC1 is going to be a pain -but you get 60mins, shallow DOF with the Letus AND 1/50 sec. I have PAL version -I think the colours are better than NTSC too... ...also don't forget a 37mm flourescent filter. Nick. |
May 31st, 2006, 03:58 PM | #5 |
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With film looks, the closer to a shutter of 1/48, the better. So 1/50 is great.
hwm
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May 31st, 2006, 04:49 PM | #6 |
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HC-3 PAL: shutter is auto or manual mode. on manual mode it is fixed to 50. I found sometimes a shutter of 100 when switched to manual - it seems the cam sometimes fixes the current auto - shutter when switched to manual. so you should darken the image before switch to get 50.
Unfortunately the values are not shown while recording, only on playback. |
June 2nd, 2006, 09:40 AM | #7 |
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not so bad! thanks for all the reply!
is playback include an real-time output to dvrack on a laptop?! (dont think so) are you happy overall with that small camera? price just go down here in canada! yepiiiiie! |
June 2nd, 2006, 09:55 AM | #8 |
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fluorescent filter? for what? its only make the color warmer no?
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June 2nd, 2006, 01:21 PM | #9 |
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I think he ment fluroescent light that are typical for hospital. I think they flickers 50 or 60 times per times depending on the electric system.
The HC3 haven't got a mic-input and I doubt that sound will be any good for a movie. My HC1 built in mic isn't the greatest. Changing a tape is quite easy and if you swap at lunchtime it will be cool. If you shoot 2 hours per day you are probably shooting too much. I still remember when I shot 5 tapes for a 10 minute shot. The time editing and throwing out the trashy scenes probably took longer time than shooting them.
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June 2nd, 2006, 01:24 PM | #10 |
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And I forgot... I would go for HC1 but seriously consider the A1. Alternatively try to find someone who has an even better camera that can be cameraman.
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