PDW-F330 start up tips & software

[Joachim Ljungquist]

Hi guys,

Got a used PDW-F330K some days ago and today my batteries will arrive (hopefully). So this will be the first time I actually test the camera.


I hope some of you could get me some tips:

1. I have no software discs and have downloaded from Sony:
FAMVer220_PDZ_1Ver260_Installer
This should include FAM driver and Proxy software. Is that all I need?

2. Will probably update the firmware. I'm not aware of current firmware at the moment. The manual (downloaded pdf) says that Memorystick 128MB or Memorystick Pro 2GB is okay. But I've read about jig updates and so... Would the Pro work regardless of current firmware? I believe that some limitations of size was depending on installed firmware... (And a small 128MB stick is not easy to find these days).

3. Most cameras has pre-settings that is not preferred by most pro-users. Are there any settings that I should disable (like auto-enhancment onces)? Other settings?

4. Other tips that might be useful?


For your knowledge: My editing system is Premier Pro CS4, Vista 64bit. Dual Xeon Quad processors, 16 GB RAM...

Thanks guys - this will be fun!

[Anton Strauss]

if your OS is 64bit, you won't be able to install the FAM driver

ideally, get yourself a PDW-U1 drive (faster transfer than from camera)

[Joachim Ljungquist]

Sony | Micro Site - XDCAM
(Click on NLE Editing and File Transfers)

See also: https://servicesplus.us.sony.biz/son...DRIVER220.aspx
It seems like it should work on Vista 64 bit.

Anyway - if it doesn't, I have multiple computers on my network so I might grab the video files via another computer. But the editing should not be a problem with my setup, right?

A PDW-U1 drive seems like a bit big investment at the moment...

[Luc De Wandel]

Especially as you made such a good deal with the camera; a new U1 costs more that the whole 330!

[Joachim Ljungquist]

Exactly!
And Luc... I hope my batteries arrive soon so I can tell you the operation hours :)

[Joachim Ljungquist]

These are the meters:

Operation 520H
Spindle 320H
Laser 15H
Seek 318H

I'm still to unfamiliar with these kind of cameras... Does this seem good to you?

[Luc De Wandel]

I just sent you an e-mail, Joachim. Good bargain in any case.

[Anton Strauss]

Originally Posted by Joachim Ljungquist

These are the meters:

Operation 520H
Spindle 320H
Laser 15H
Seek 318H

I'm still to unfamiliar with these kind of cameras... Does this seem good to you?

it is basically a new camera if the above values have not been tampered with

[Greg Boston]

Originally Posted by Joachim Ljungquist

It seems like it should work on Vista 64 bit.

No, it won't work. There isn't a Prodisc driver for 64 bit. You can install all the software, but you won't be able to see your camera as a removable storage media. You can import on a non 64 bit and move the files over a network as you mentioned. I had to do the same thing when Vista first came out as there was no driver for it at the time. I used my XP laptop attached directly via ethernet to the Vista machine and attached camera to the laptop firewire port.

-gb-

[Joachim Ljungquist]

Greg:
It seem like you a correct here... Strange - Sony should really release a Vista 64 bit driver as well as versions for the viewer. This is bad.

Okay... to me it's not a big problem, just annoying.
Actually, just a couple of minutes ago I realised this after installing the driver. I had to use another computer as well - connected to the network.

I'm happy though to say that I (one minute ago) happily did get my test footage files into my Premiere Pro CS4 timeline with no problems.

I got quite nervous when I first say A DEAD PIXEL, but after my heartbeats started again - I found out that this was quickly fixed with the BLACK BALANCE. Puh!

[Luc De Wandel]

There seems to be a limit to the number of times you can 'repair' dead pixels via the black balance. At least, that's what I read. Let someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Joachim Ljungquist]

Luc: That sounded not very good...

Is there any good way to check for dead pixels? I saw this one first after downloading the clips to the computer and viewed it at full res. I never say it in the viewfinder or on the display while test shooting.

It could be a disaster beeing on a shoot and then realise back at the office that it has been shot with dead pixels...

[Greg Boston]

Originally Posted by Luc De Wandel

There seems to be a limit to the number of times you can 'repair' dead pixels via the black balance. At least, that's what I read. Let someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

I've said it before on this forum, but there is a difference in masking a dead pixel vs. doing a black balance. There are also TWO kinds of defective pixels, DEAD and STUCK. A dead pixel will not respond to light by producing current no matter what. A stuck pixel will always produce current, even in total darkness and black balancing DOES NOT take care of a stuck pixel. It has to be masked out via the service menu.

Black balancing is the act of closing the iris, and looking for any residual current from each of the pixel sites. A small leakage current due to thermal noise, etc, can be zeroed out, but a truly stuck pixel will not zero out as it is in essence a short circuit.

The masking process is done in the camera by ignoring the defective pixel and using nearest neighbor approximation to reconstruct the pixel data. As you can see, there is a limited number of times you can get away with this before it really degrades the picture quality.

-gb-

[Joachim Ljungquist]

Actually my pixel wasn't dead - just asleep :)

But I should be able to do a Black balance before every shoot, right? (Just to be sure). I assume this wouldn't harm the camera in anyway?
The "limited numbers" Luc is talking about is more "suitable numbers" before the "nearest neightbor pixel data" of real dead pixels becomes to obvious/noticeable.

[Luc De Wandel]

Originally Posted by Joachim Ljungquist

Luc: That sounded not very good...

Is there any good way to check for dead pixels?

Switch on the camera and let it warm up during one hour. Put on the lens cap and turn the peaking up to it's maximum. Any dead pixels will now show up clearly as white specks on a dark background.