Lighting people wearing glasses at DVinfo.net

Jeff Milligan · October 4th, 2005, 08:30 PM

What works for lighting people who are wearing glasses in simple lighting setups? I seem to always get light flares in the glasses unless I use large reflectors or light sources.

David Stoneburner · October 5th, 2005, 07:08 AM

One quick trick is to get the people to tilt their glasses forward a little bit. This basically "keystones" the lenses and can help cut out glare. It usually looks fine for the camera, but may feel a little weird to the person.

Ron Johnson · October 5th, 2005, 07:55 AM

One could also try using a polarizing lens in combination with a little bit of head positioning as suggested in the first reply.

rj

Jeff Milligan · October 5th, 2005, 08:50 AM

Do you use a circular or regular polarizing filter or is there a difference for video?

Shaughan Flynn · October 5th, 2005, 10:11 AM

I use circular and it works OK until the actor moves into a position that negates the polar position of the filter. Then I get to re-block the scene to account for that.

Wayne Orr · October 5th, 2005, 02:22 PM

Move your key light--which should probably be a softbox--above their eye level and off to one side till it disappears.

Wayne Orr, SOC

Brandt Wilson · October 6th, 2005, 08:09 AM

One idea, though it doesn't help people who already have glasses, is that the glazed members of the lighting team buy their glasses with anti-glare/anti-reflective coatings. I believe nearly all lenses are available this way.

Peter Wiley · October 6th, 2005, 08:15 AM

It sometimes helps to lower the tripod slightly from where you normally place it for an interview and shoot with the camera tilted up ever so slightly toward the face of the person with glasses -- the idea being that the slight angle will miss the reflections altogether.

This is, in effect, tilting the camera instead of the glasses (as mentioned above).

John Jackman · October 9th, 2005, 08:25 PM

Try the suggestions here:

http://www.greatdv.com/lighting/glasses.htm

BTW, you should use a regular polarizing filter for video. Circular serves a specific purpose for SLRs.

Stephanie Wilson · October 9th, 2005, 10:48 PM

Hey there,

My humble suggestion would be to set your lights at a 90 degree angle from the subject. When I had to shoot framed art or someone with glasses I always positioned my lights as perpendicular to the subject as possible. This will eliminate most of the light reflection off of the eyeglasses.

Nose and glasses shadows can then become a problem however. If you can
fill with a front directed soft-box set way ABOVE the camera's line of sight you might be able to wash out those pesky shadows altogether.

Good luck,

Stephanie

October 4th, 2005, 08:30 PM	#1
Jeff Milligan Regular Crew Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Keizer, Oregon Posts: 26	Lighting people wearing glasses What works for lighting people who are wearing glasses in simple lighting setups? I seem to always get light flares in the glasses unless I use large reflectors or light sources.

October 5th, 2005, 07:55 AM	#3
Ron Johnson Regular Crew Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 103	One could also try using a polarizing lens in combination with a little bit of head positioning as suggested in the first reply. rj __________________ Ron Johnson Portland, OR

October 5th, 2005, 08:50 AM	#4
Jeff Milligan Regular Crew Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Keizer, Oregon Posts: 26	Type of polarizing filter for digital video? Do you use a circular or regular polarizing filter or is there a difference for video?

October 5th, 2005, 10:11 AM	#5
Shaughan Flynn Major Player Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 272	I use circular and it works OK until the actor moves into a position that negates the polar position of the filter. Then I get to re-block the scene to account for that. __________________ B-Scene Films

October 5th, 2005, 02:22 PM	#6
Wayne Orr Major Player Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Northridge Ca Posts: 734	Move your key light--which should probably be a softbox--above their eye level and off to one side till it disappears. Wayne Orr, SOC __________________ Wayne If it was easy, they'd get a relative to do it.

October 5th, 2005, 07:08 AM	#2
David Stoneburner Major Player Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 494	One quick trick is to get the people to tilt their glasses forward a little bit. This basically "keystones" the lenses and can help cut out glare. It usually looks fine for the camera, but may feel a little weird to the person.

October 6th, 2005, 08:09 AM	#7
Brandt Wilson Major Player Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 220	One idea, though it doesn't help people who already have glasses, is that the glazed members of the lighting team buy their glasses with anti-glare/anti-reflective coatings. I believe nearly all lenses are available this way.

October 6th, 2005, 08:15 AM	#8
Peter Wiley Major Player Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lewisburg PA Posts: 752	It sometimes helps to lower the tripod slightly from where you normally place it for an interview and shoot with the camera tilted up ever so slightly toward the face of the person with glasses -- the idea being that the slight angle will miss the reflections altogether. This is, in effect, tilting the camera instead of the glasses (as mentioned above).

October 9th, 2005, 08:25 PM	#9
John Jackman Great DV dot com Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 78	Try the suggestions here: http://www.greatdv.com/lighting/glasses.htm BTW, you should use a regular polarizing filter for video. Circular serves a specific purpose for SLRs. __________________ John Jackman www.johnjackman.com

October 9th, 2005, 10:48 PM	#10
Stephanie Wilson Major Player Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sherman Oaks CA Posts: 255	Hey there, My humble suggestion would be to set your lights at a 90 degree angle from the subject. When I had to shoot framed art or someone with glasses I always positioned my lights as perpendicular to the subject as possible. This will eliminate most of the light reflection off of the eyeglasses. Nose and glasses shadows can then become a problem however. If you can fill with a front directed soft-box set way ABOVE the camera's line of sight you might be able to wash out those pesky shadows altogether. Good luck, Stephanie