Flolight Microbeam 128 with BP-U batteries?

[Jack Zhang]

Just asking out there trying to find the needle in the haystack... Does anyone use the Flolight Microbeam 128 with a BP-U series battery?

I know SWIT makes a BP-U battery plate with open leads that could be used for the Microbeam, The S-7000U, and Dolgin makes the EX-V, so battery plates for the BP-U series exist.

I'm just curious, is anyone out there actually using these batteries on their Flolight?

[Jack Zhang]

No one? Am I the only one interested to see if these lights would work with a BP-U battery?

[Jack Zhang]

Given a response I got from the manufacturer that said they have no interest in seeing if BP-U works with these batteries, I'm assuming no one in the world wants to see if this works.

That's fine, I'll just go with the only BP-U series battery light in the world that I know of: the Switronix GP-H56EX.

Flolight, you're losing out on EX1, EX3 customers by not offering a BP-U plate option.

If there are better recommendations for BP-U series powered lighting under $300, feel free to say them. Please, no AAs or L-series recommendations as I want to keep to the BP-U battery workflow.

[Arthur Gannis]

BP-U series batteries are rated at the 14.4 volt level and when fully charged may go as high or higher than 16.8 volts DC. That is well above the 12 volt input max as the unit specs on that light will allow.
Most battery plates are the camcorder 7.2 volt varieties and those work well with most led lights. It all depends on the driver ( the electronic control circuit) that controls the led current. Some led unit drivers will allow a DC in range up to 18 or 24 or more volts. The microbeam 1288just does not make that happen. If you were to accidentally hook up the BP-U to it, it might burn out the driver electronics in an instant. Yes, I agree the BP-U batteries offer excellent run times and are the preferred small batteries of the pros, as most ENG type applications call for it. Most led on-camera manufacturers in order to keep things light and small all seem to opt for the 7.2 volt camcorder series of batteries. Main reasons, lightweight, easily available and generic ones are cheap to purchase, When was the last time you've seen generic BP-U batteries at $25 each ? I guess no one wants to purchase a led light if a couple of batteries cost more than the unit itself.

[Brent Kaplan]

Sorry to high jack but does any one know if flolight offers a dtap cable to power the light of the camera

[Arthur Gannis]

Be very careful with them D-tap or P-tap and sometimes also known as Anton Bauer 2 pin power tap. They are always connected to a 14.4 volt Dc power source. Always check the MAXIMUM input voltage to any equipment BEFORE you plug them in. Most 12 volt halogen bulbs will work with voltages as high as 17 volts as they are filaments that can withstand higher than the rated nominal 12V. If the led lights can in fact accept the 18 volt range, they will surely say so in the specs like this: Input voltage 7.2- 18 VDC or like 9-24 VDC. Never assume all units will work with higher than rated voltages. Many batteries that are used in conjunction with those tap connectors are in the 16 volt or higher DC range when they are fully charged. I have seen a few led lights that were turned to toast because of voltage input above the rated one.

[Arthur Gannis]

Sorry, getting back to your question, if Flolight does not offer them, that may be due to their units not being designed for the higher voltages, or of licensing, as Anton Bauer is a propriety plug design. One can however either make their own, as the end plug is available seperately or purchase a ready made cable . Just be awqre of the VOLTAGE and POLARITY at the other end. Always make sure. Wrong POLARITY can also cause permanent damage.

[Jack Zhang]

Thank you to the people that actually responded to this thread.

There are people with EX series cameras that want to stick to one type of battery and not deal with multiple types of batteries.

I guess the only solution then might be the Dolgin EX-V bracket, which possibly reduces and regulates the voltage coming out of the BP-U batteries to 12-14 volts. That should work with the Flolight through a DC-In or through bare leads.

[Jack Zhang]

Bumping to say that Flolight outright and officially has no interest in this now. Last time I tried, they were busy for NAB, which is understandable. However, when I inquired again, they flat out refused to investigate.

That sliver of hope for Flolight is gone for me. Switronix it is.

[Tuy Le]

I have the Microbeam 256 for over a year and using it with V-Mount IDX / Comer battery by D-tap connector from the battery to both Camera (Sony EX1) and the light (a friend made this cable for me).

16.8vDC won't burn your Microbeam 128.

[Jack Zhang]

Really? then why is there no option for BP-U plates? That's quite a long time in use with those voltages...

Also, does the Dolgin plate regulate the voltage nominally to 12V, or is it straight from the leads?

[Les Wilson]

Jack. Why are you asking here? Contact Dolgin. They make great stuff and know their business.

[Jack Zhang]

I was just asking if anyone had first hand experience measuring the voltage from a fully charged battery from the Dolgin leads.

Anyways, through further research, looks like the ikan iLED 155 with a BP-U plate has everything that I needed, plus interchangeable battery plates. Where Flolight has failed me, ikan has more than made up.

I just hope it doesn't sell out soon because the official site lists the light as discontinued...

[Jack Zhang]

1 year later (and sorry for bumping the thread) but I have successfully done (with my friend's help) a BP-U Mod on a Flolight Microbeam 128.

Me and a friend looked into the internals of the light and found that the maximum voltage was actually 25V for the driver, with a 30V tolerance for difference on the PWM. We bought a Ikan plate (stripped out one board that was supposed to be leads) and soldered correct leads and connectors and drilled a hole for the single screw in the plate and widened another hole to patch the cables. It works.

Proof is in pictures, so here are some I took of the finished product.

This shows that all you need is the battery plate, some solder, wires, and a drill to install the plate. Basic electronics DIY project successful!