Will Britek lights work in 220v Land?

Aaron Koolen · September 6th, 2004, 08:19 PM

Andrew, that's good news.

Just an update from me. I've gone and got a Tota with Photoflex Silverdome and a stand. Haven't had much time to play with it yet though. I will need a harder, focusable source soon though, of about 300w so I might look into the Britek's for that - although knowing me I'll be too scared and go with something like Lowel again ;)

Aaron

Steve Madsen · February 18th, 2006, 03:52 AM

Hi all,

Just wiping the dust off this thread to see if anyone has been able to source 220v bulbs for Britek lights. I've (perhaps foolishly) ordered 1000k, 650 and a 300 (requiring JPD, DYR and JCD bulbs respectively) from Rostronics without checking bulb availability. Hmmmm.

And am I right in thinking that I need g6.35 base for each of these lamps (BandH have the DYR 650 but with GZ9.5 base) and that the codes must be JPD for the 1k, DYR for the 650 and JCD for the 350?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

Bob Grant · February 18th, 2006, 05:07 AM

Steve,
I can probably help you out but where are you located?
Only reason I ask is 220V is a bit of an oddity unless you're in Europe, outside the USA and Europe much of the world is 240V or 250V, the 240V lamps will work off 220V but a bit less light output and lower CT.

Anyway if you're in Australia or NZ there's a company here in Sydney run by a lady who knows every lamp ever made, sells a lot to the local TV networks.

What we need to know is the socket type, that code is the same no matter who makes the lamp. You'll oftenly find a range of lamps to fit that socket in various wattages and voltage from at least one or more manufacturer but first you need to nail down the code for the base(s) that you need.

If you're too far away to make it practical to buy from someone down here no drama, I can find a lamp part number and manufacturer for you, if it's one Osram makes we can track down a local reseller through Osram.

One bit of advice, if you're going to always be running these lights of 220-250V, get someone to change the power flex, as you'll only be drawing half the current it doesn't need to be as thick as that horrid stuff they use in the USA, not only does it make it easier for the light to fall over the damn stuff fails and goes BOOM after a while.

Bob Grant · February 18th, 2006, 05:46 AM

Just doing a bit of research for you.
Osram have halogens with the GX6.35 base rated 650W, 230V, 3400K.
Full description: 64540 650W 230V GX6,35 BVM FS1
I'd give you the direct link to their page but all their catalogue comes out of their SAP system and the URLs are HUGE.
Just go to www.myosram.com most of their video / film lamps are under "Display/Optic".

No matter where you are on the planet there'll be someone around who can source Osram lamps. I avoid video specialist shops for stuff like this, electrical trade outlets are cheaper and better informed or else places that service theatrical lighting.

If these are the lamps you need, they're only rated at 15hours life, buy plenty of them and don't move the light for 30 seconds after power down. Do not move them when on unless you like replacing lamps.

Steve Madsen · February 18th, 2006, 07:27 AM

Bob, I tip my hat to you. Great info. And that Osram site is going to come in handy, I'm sure.

I'm in Oz too (that's now clear on my profile). I've done a little research too, and come up with the following bulbs at BandH...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...u=74500&is=REG

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=282759&is=REG

I'm getting a sense that it's essential I have the right codes for these bulbs, not just the right bases? (I'm still trying to confirm the bases on the gy650 and rs1000). To add to this, it seems some dvxusers have been having problems with their 600-650s, and one member suggests the problems can be solved by using a Ushio bulb rather than an Osram (or other brand)

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=43336&page=2

Thanks for your offer of assistance re order - I'll wade my way through this and get back to you. If you do have any advice on my question in the para above that'd be great (still trying to get my head around this). Either way, I'll have some answers eventually which I'll share for those who care.

Steve

Bob Grant · February 18th, 2006, 05:25 PM

We too have had a problem with that specific Osram lamp in a quite different light. The problem isn't the length of the pin it's the unsupported length of the filament. The 230V versions use a thinner filament and they break easier. The GE version has a centre support which gives you better protection. Thankfully we no longer use any tungsten or halogen light sources, all fluro or HMI!

However as you're in Oz, give Pro-Lamps a ring (02 9890 4404), ask for Heather, she knows every lamp ever made, even has a lamp museum. They don't just stock Osram, I just always prefer to use their lamps because they're always at SMPTE, have a usable online catalogue and are pretty much into lighting for video with their HMI and fluro range.

Just noticed http://www.pro-lamps.com/ so they have a branch in Qld as well, still worth calling Sydney and talking to 'the lady', she'll be able to tell you exactly what you need and then you can order it from the Qld branch.

BTW, they can also supply lamp sockets, I've done a few socket swaps as well so we can use a better lamp. I'm about to embark on a project to build some chinese lanterns using 150W HMIs, should be fun.

Andrew Rowatt · February 19th, 2006, 02:01 AM

Hi Steve et al, Cough, cough - waits for dust to clear and pulls cob-webs out of hair...

Unfortunately I cannot help you much. As I recall I had some difficulty sourcing bulbs here in New Zealand and eventually ended up corresponding with a firm in Oz - which looked promising. However, I eventually ended up ebay-ing a couple of Pro-Lights and getting a bulbs (and other bits and pieces) from B&H in the U.S.

I am sure that the bulbs for the Briteks were available here but the fact that I was new to "pro" lighting in general, unfamiliar with bulb "terminology" and that dealers here dealt with big names eg: Lowel, Arri etc and not much else that it all became a bit too hard.

Good luck!

Andrew

Steve Madsen · February 19th, 2006, 05:42 AM

Nice one guys...thanks for the input.

Like most things, it seems that if it's being produced, a retailer can probably get a hold of it.

Bob - again, your help is much appreciated. I'll give Heather a call this week.

September 6th, 2004, 08:19 PM	#31
Aaron Koolen Trustee Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posts: 1,727	Andrew, that's good news. Just an update from me. I've gone and got a Tota with Photoflex Silverdome and a stand. Haven't had much time to play with it yet though. I will need a harder, focusable source soon though, of about 300w so I might look into the Britek's for that - although knowing me I'll be too scared and go with something like Lowel again ;) Aaron __________________ My Website Meat Free Media

February 18th, 2006, 03:52 AM	#32
Steve Madsen Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Brisbane, Australia Posts: 111	Hi all, Just wiping the dust off this thread to see if anyone has been able to source 220v bulbs for Britek lights. I've (perhaps foolishly) ordered 1000k, 650 and a 300 (requiring JPD, DYR and JCD bulbs respectively) from Rostronics without checking bulb availability. Hmmmm. And am I right in thinking that I need g6.35 base for each of these lamps (BandH have the DYR 650 but with GZ9.5 base) and that the codes must be JPD for the 1k, DYR for the 650 and JCD for the 350? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Steve

February 18th, 2006, 05:07 AM	#33
Bob Grant Trustee Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Sydney Australia Posts: 1,570	Steve, I can probably help you out but where are you located? Only reason I ask is 220V is a bit of an oddity unless you're in Europe, outside the USA and Europe much of the world is 240V or 250V, the 240V lamps will work off 220V but a bit less light output and lower CT. Anyway if you're in Australia or NZ there's a company here in Sydney run by a lady who knows every lamp ever made, sells a lot to the local TV networks. What we need to know is the socket type, that code is the same no matter who makes the lamp. You'll oftenly find a range of lamps to fit that socket in various wattages and voltage from at least one or more manufacturer but first you need to nail down the code for the base(s) that you need. If you're too far away to make it practical to buy from someone down here no drama, I can find a lamp part number and manufacturer for you, if it's one Osram makes we can track down a local reseller through Osram. One bit of advice, if you're going to always be running these lights of 220-250V, get someone to change the power flex, as you'll only be drawing half the current it doesn't need to be as thick as that horrid stuff they use in the USA, not only does it make it easier for the light to fall over the damn stuff fails and goes BOOM after a while.

February 18th, 2006, 05:46 AM	#34
Bob Grant Trustee Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Sydney Australia Posts: 1,570	Just doing a bit of research for you. Osram have halogens with the GX6.35 base rated 650W, 230V, 3400K. Full description: 64540 650W 230V GX6,35 BVM FS1 I'd give you the direct link to their page but all their catalogue comes out of their SAP system and the URLs are HUGE. Just go to www.myosram.com most of their video / film lamps are under "Display/Optic". No matter where you are on the planet there'll be someone around who can source Osram lamps. I avoid video specialist shops for stuff like this, electrical trade outlets are cheaper and better informed or else places that service theatrical lighting. If these are the lamps you need, they're only rated at 15hours life, buy plenty of them and don't move the light for 30 seconds after power down. Do not move them when on unless you like replacing lamps.

February 18th, 2006, 07:27 AM	#35
Steve Madsen Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Brisbane, Australia Posts: 111	Bob, I tip my hat to you. Great info. And that Osram site is going to come in handy, I'm sure. I'm in Oz too (that's now clear on my profile). I've done a little research too, and come up with the following bulbs at BandH... http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...u=74500&is=REG http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=282759&is=REG I'm getting a sense that it's essential I have the right codes for these bulbs, not just the right bases? (I'm still trying to confirm the bases on the gy650 and rs1000). To add to this, it seems some dvxusers have been having problems with their 600-650s, and one member suggests the problems can be solved by using a Ushio bulb rather than an Osram (or other brand) http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=43336&page=2 Thanks for your offer of assistance re order - I'll wade my way through this and get back to you. If you do have any advice on my question in the para above that'd be great (still trying to get my head around this). Either way, I'll have some answers eventually which I'll share for those who care. Steve

February 18th, 2006, 05:25 PM	#36
Bob Grant Trustee Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Sydney Australia Posts: 1,570	We too have had a problem with that specific Osram lamp in a quite different light. The problem isn't the length of the pin it's the unsupported length of the filament. The 230V versions use a thinner filament and they break easier. The GE version has a centre support which gives you better protection. Thankfully we no longer use any tungsten or halogen light sources, all fluro or HMI! However as you're in Oz, give Pro-Lamps a ring (02 9890 4404), ask for Heather, she knows every lamp ever made, even has a lamp museum. They don't just stock Osram, I just always prefer to use their lamps because they're always at SMPTE, have a usable online catalogue and are pretty much into lighting for video with their HMI and fluro range. Just noticed http://www.pro-lamps.com/ so they have a branch in Qld as well, still worth calling Sydney and talking to 'the lady', she'll be able to tell you exactly what you need and then you can order it from the Qld branch. BTW, they can also supply lamp sockets, I've done a few socket swaps as well so we can use a better lamp. I'm about to embark on a project to build some chinese lanterns using 150W HMIs, should be fun.

February 19th, 2006, 02:01 AM	#37
Andrew Rowatt New Boot Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand Posts: 15	Hi Steve et al, Cough, cough - waits for dust to clear and pulls cob-webs out of hair... Unfortunately I cannot help you much. As I recall I had some difficulty sourcing bulbs here in New Zealand and eventually ended up corresponding with a firm in Oz - which looked promising. However, I eventually ended up ebay-ing a couple of Pro-Lights and getting a bulbs (and other bits and pieces) from B&H in the U.S. I am sure that the bulbs for the Briteks were available here but the fact that I was new to "pro" lighting in general, unfamiliar with bulb "terminology" and that dealers here dealt with big names eg: Lowel, Arri etc and not much else that it all became a bit too hard. Good luck! Andrew

February 19th, 2006, 05:42 AM	#38
Steve Madsen Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Brisbane, Australia Posts: 111	Nice one guys...thanks for the input. Like most things, it seems that if it's being produced, a retailer can probably get a hold of it. Bob - again, your help is much appreciated. I'll give Heather a call this week.