LED Lights

[Alex Raskin]

Seems like color temperature, CRI, lux readings, and prices are omitted from that web site?

[Richard Gooderick]

Originally Posted by Alex Raskin

Seems like color temperature, CRI, lux readings, and prices are omitted from that web site?

I understand that the price is 795 UK pounds plus sales tax.
I will try to get the other specs.

[Richard Andrewski]

Originally Posted by Mike Gunter

I am unclear about the 12volt power supply included as rechargeable or battery not included.

Mike

No battery included. We do have two optional battery mount plates: AB or V mount of which you would only need one. So, you supply the pro type battery of your choice and pay $99 extra for whichever battery plate you would need. You don't have to use the optional battery plate though--you can use anything that has a 4 pin XLR female type cable on it as long as its in the voltage range we require. Thus, you could use the D-Tap to 4 pin XLR type cable from whatever external battery you may have. The battery plate is a great convenience obviously when you don't want to have a battery dangling around.

12vdc power supply is included and has a 15 foot AC American type IEC cable on one side and a 6 foot dc output cable with a 4 pin XLR female using the standard pin 1 as GND and pin 4 as +12. IEC type power cable means you can change it out to whatever the cable / plug type of the country you are in. That is the same kind used on PCs around the world making it easy to change the plug as needed.

One power change since my last update is that now the power input to the panel can be anything from 9VDC to 24VDC as I added a buck/boost regulator internally to all power input whether from battery plate or the 4 pin XLR input. What this means is that whatever voltage you put in (as long as its in the range of 9VDC to 24VDC) will be translated to what we need internally and will stay constant. In practical terms this means that the light output will stay constant as a battery voltage drops, during discharge, until it gets below 9VDC and then it just goes off. In my tests with a 160WH AB type battery I got a solid 3 hours before it went out. Got about 2:45 with my 140WH RED brick V mount battery. Which is all consistent with the panel's 50 watt draw.

[Dan Chung]

Richard,

Sounds better all the time, any chance of a photo of the rear of the unit with a v-plate attached? would be good.

Dan

[Richard Andrewski]

It'll probably be about a week or so before I can get that as I'm not in that area right now. I'll post as soon as I have one.

[Richard Andrewski]

Finally have some LED 600 panels rolling off the assembly line. Here are the promised pictures I took today of one of the units including of the back with some descriptions. I'll try to include one tomorrow with a battery plate attached. To attach a battery plate (V or AB) to the back of the unit, simply remove the 4 screws and take off the door on the left, pull out the molex battery plate connector (keyed so there can be no mistakes), attach to the battery plate, screw the battery plate down and you're ready to go.

The picture on the right shows the bottom of the unit with dimmer and stand adapter.

The picture on the bottom shows the top of the fixture with the carry handle and the spring loaded accessory locks which hold the removable barndoors in place.

[Alex Raskin]

Richard, I see there are Flood and Spot options for this light on your web site.

How do you switch between the options with the same hardware?

[Richard Andrewski]

Making a flood or spot version of the panel is just a difference in the lens of the LED (and thus the beam angle), thus its not possible electronically or in real time to change from flood to spot, just like with some other types of panels that come in flood or spot as well. Perhaps someday someone will invent an LED where its possible to electronically change the angle. Otherwise, I've had some ideas for how you could change from spot to flood on a future LED panel (using 1w LEDs) we want to do. It would be a mechanical change though with a focusing knob similar to the way you change from flood to spot on a fresnel. That's another story for another day though...

[Ned Soltz]

Richard,

Sent you an email.

Congrats on getting the first units off the line and looking forward to testing.

Ned

[Don Miller]

Originally Posted by Richard Gooderick

Litewave | A new led light for the film and television industry that gives you total control | Features

Can I ask if anyone has any thoughts or comments about this LED light and what it might be useful for?
thanks

That product could be single LED with a lens. Or it could even be 6 MR16 type bulbs. I'm unclear on the size. One change with LED is higher output single LEDs becoming giving out much more light. The are four and five watt single LEDs.

Vendors of stage and portable LED lighting are going to units with far fewer but much more powerful LEDs. These are controllable through a protocol called DMX for just about any thing a light can do. More expensive units ($1000) even allow input of a specific color temperature.

It's possible, and perhaps even likely, that LED video lighting will move away from panels like litepanel/coolltes produce to units that are more like traditional hot lights.

The color variable stage units use a combination of RGB LEDs that can bet set from 0-255. These can be set to any color. These can also be dimmed without color change or flicker. How does RGB lights work with video? I don't know. I'm going to test this unit: Products COLORdash? PAR | | CHAUVET® Lighting

There are new, big LEDs coming on the market all the time. From what I read manufacturers seem to be looking more at CRI. High CRI lights are somewhat less energy efficient than regular LEDs, but who cares. For video use, and for home use, highly efficent lights with an incomplete spectrum aren't going to be used.

I believe zylite is using stage-type lighting in their on camera LED. I don't know the quality of this light. Zylight - Intelligent LED Lighting

Richards lights are a nice price for 48 watts of LED. As long as it takes a gels it will be great.

[Dan Chung]

Richard,

Congrats, This is a great late Christmas present. I better get an order in.

Dan

***Edit*** Just looked at the site, any idea what the shipping to Beijing is going to be? I'd like to get some to test with the 5DmkII as soon as possible. Also, are the battery plates a special design? I have a few already but I'm not sure they will fit.

[Richard Andrewski]

Hi Dan,

Shipping will be minimal to Beijing. Shoot me an email at info@coollights.biz.

[Richard Andrewski]

On the subject of battery plates. I just took some pictures showing the battery plates and how they attach. Pretty standard stuff although I certainly haven't taken a survey of all the different options out there and how they all work. Ours have a bottom plate which attaches to whatever and then a top plate with the battery adapter on it that attaches to that. First pictures shows the V Mount bottom plate just attached to the back of the unit. You can see the molex keyed connector sticking out ready to attach to the battery plate. Next picture shows the V Mount attached to the bottom plate. 3rd pictures shows an AB Mount plate attached instead of V Mount. 4th pictures shows an AB Battery on the fixture with the AB Mount.

[Richard Andrewski]

The Blinder! Or, a quick way to get 1200 LEDs (or more) on one stand.

The CL-LEDHBAR allows placing two fixtures on one baby light stand and includes two baby male 5/8" studs on a powder coated, lightweight steel bar and one baby 5/8" female / junior male adapter at the bottom.

The CL-LEDVBAR allows stacking the CL-LEDHBARs vertically for 4, 6, etc. panels on one light stand. Availability at same time the panels hit stock.

[Dan Brockett]

That's some nice stuff Richard.

Looking forward to using them.

Thanks!

Dan