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March 10th, 2004, 12:20 PM | #1 |
New Boot
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 11
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night shooting with dvx100a
Q's on night shooting/DVx100ap.
ok..so today was my first night shootin' wif the dvx100a..... since i'm new to this.....i'm not sure if i had everything set up the right way.... here are soem noobie questions... 1.when shooting at night does one need to whitebalance for night? 2. after i did a white blance and when i pointed to a streetlight it gave me the normal blue hue, evetho the light was yello.. the motorbike was blue and yello..and it turned out quite well and crisp..... ater a few mins of shooting i wanted to see what other settings would do so i changed the whiteblance to preset..and that turned everything warm orange..... now....what its corect....or is it a choice... also i had my gain all the way opend... thanx... i'll post up some screens in a bit anythin elese i should know aobut shooting at night.. peace |
March 10th, 2004, 02:20 PM | #2 |
Major Player
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: 32° 44' N 117° 10' W
Posts: 820
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The basic rule of thumb is to do a WB everytime the lighting conditions change.
There are 2 Presets: 3400 and 5600 I would not reccomend suing PRST for an EXT Night Shot. Do a Manual WB under the LIGHTS you are using! |
March 10th, 2004, 04:02 PM | #3 |
Space Hipster
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 1,508
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Shoot with the 3400 preset unless you have time to white balance per John's instructions.
Be sure to handle your highlights and shadow detail well. Always remember it's much easier to regain detail from shadows than from blown highlights in post, so use your zebra and spot meter to get the best latitude in a shot. If possible, use as little or no gain as possible as it degrades the footage. Use careful lighting to avoid gain. Eyelights and reflectors work well - remember all you need to do is light the important part of frame to get a great shot. IMHO, people, even the pros, consisently tend to overexpose night shot, especially with DV and new fast film stocks. |
March 10th, 2004, 05:44 PM | #4 |
New Boot
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 11
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:D
awesome.....thanx...when i shoot at night its only with the light thats around...ie street lights or car lights...i guess its all trial and error for that look.....
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March 17th, 2004, 02:15 PM | #5 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: West Simsbury, CT
Posts: 30
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Hello everyone,
I am seriously considering the DVC80 for event work. Does anyone know where I might be able to view sample clips, shot with the DVC80. I've looked for quite some time. Also, would the DVC80 be suitable for video deposition work. Thanks all Bob |
March 17th, 2004, 08:36 PM | #6 |
Major Player
Join Date: May 2003
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 936
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To WB every time the lighting changes is good advice.
After you shoot a while you'll know the color temp of the existing light pretty quick. This statement is not an attempt to discourage white balancing!.... In my area most new street lights are closer to daylight... 5600k... Older ones are closer to tungsten 3200k... some are metal halide and push 6500k... Basically if you don't want to set your WB for some wacky reason you can click between 5600k and 3200k and if everything's blue, you're on the wrong setting. If everything's orangy-warm, you're on the wrong setting. Get a white card and use it when it really matters... It only takes 10 seconds to get the WB true rather then close. I gotta' PB bag and it came with this plastic card about 6x8" and it appears to be made of the same white plastic that's sold in eight foot sheets at any home center for bathroom panelling. When I get a website set up I'm going to offer the world all my cheap shortcuts for items such as this... but then again I'll bet you can get a white card or "warm card" at a photo shop for under $10... but I don't know? |
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