Is there a Delay after taking a Clip Shot?

[Melvin Partido]

I have been taking my HMC 150 family movie project, and I noticed after making the movie, a delay after each clip. In other words, when I am taking, say, a 10 second shot, is there a delay after clicking on the stop button? Am I supposed to hold my camcorder a few seconds more after taking my 10 second shot?

On another issue: I have been utilizing the ND filter a lot to compensate for the changing outside day light. I used my HMC 150 on my grandson's soccer game. When I am on a very sunny day, I utilized my ND filter 1/62, 1/16. amd 1/4. Is this okay? I use thise because I have a difficult time knowing how to use the other buttons for the change of day light outside.

Can you give me some tips?

[Chris Harding]

Hey Melvin

Hope you are doing well!! The only delay is the time it takes to finalise the writing of the file to the card. When you hit the record button a second time your screen should show the red 'record' icon change to a red 'pause' icon and then it will go green...the time between the red pause and the green pause is just your file being finalised on the card. The actual data stops the moment you hit record a second time. I must admit I don't shoot clips as short as 10 seconds...for editing ease, give yourself a little bit of lead-in time and lead-out time too!! Trimming a clip is very easy and shooting a little bit extra gives you just a tad more material to work with. I keep minimum clip length to at least 30 seconds otherwise you will have so many clips to edit it won't be funny...rather shoot the family and then just swing across to a second shot leaving the camera running...it's simple to edit out the 'swing across' piece in you NLE.

You camera set to auto will judge exposure pretty accurately...now, you only need ND's when it's so bright that the fastest shutter and smallest iris still over-exposes the shot. You should have zebra settings on on your camera...that way just let the camera decide the exposure and if you get zebra lines all over the screen with a very bright scene, THEN you can kick in an ND filter....Zebras give you an ongoing analysis of what the camera is trying to expose to and I use them all the time!! They are essential to see whats going on....sometimes seeing zebras in part of the image can be corrected simply by moving your position. Definately turn them on and set them to say 90% and keep them on and that will tell you if you need ND's switched in or not!!

Chris

[Melvin Partido]

Doing well here Chris.

Just to let you know the questions I am asking is for a beginner. Believe me I am a beginner with this fine Panasonic AG HMC 150 camcorder.

With that said, I need to get my mind clear on what your response.

First of all you are correct. Shooting 10 second shots result in a lot of clips to inset in my make family movie. When I complete a shot, 10 or 30 seconds, should I wait a few seconds (no movement), than go on with my second shot? I noticed between clips, the change over is not smooth or clear. That's why I thought I had camera movement after the 10 second shot.

I haven't learn to edit my clips with this camera yet. Also I haven't learn how to use the "zebra" option and know how to set it at 90 percent. What is NLE?

[Chris Harding]

Hi Melvin

With MiniDV tape cameras, when you hit the record button a second time, it simply pauses the tape and waits for you to push the button again to continue filming so you usually get a nice flow of footage from scene to scene.
Card cameras don't do this at all..when you hit the button a 2nd time the camera creates a clip so you cannot actually film a bit of this and that, pause and then continue as each stop/start results in a clip. In that case if you want a fluid sequence of shots you need to film a bit longer until the action is over so you can then trim the clip ends to make a nice smooth transition between clips. Simply shoot more than you need and then start the next shot and so on!!

Read your manual carefully and set up zebras and keep them on at all times...they are essentially a visual exposure indicator on your screen and when the diagonal lines appear that means that section of the frame has too much light.

NLE stands for Non Linear Editor ...whatever software you are using (or intending to use) to edit like Sony Vegas or Adobe etc etc are all NLE's

Take a hour off your busy day and actually sit down with the camera and read your manual and try out the settings that matter most.

Chris

[Melvin Partido]

Chris, I finally taking some time to know my camera. The Zebra button confuses me. I am reading the camera instruction manual. Where it says Zebra 1 or Zebra 2 on my LCD screen.

I did press the Zebra button. On the LCD screen, I am trying to where am I on, Zebra 1 or Zebra 2. Next it says to set your percentage 50,55 60 all the way up to 105 for Zebra one. Zebra two has the same percentage, 50 percent all the way to 105 percentate.

Now how do I set the selected percentage.? I am working the zebra button.

[Chris Harding]

Hi Melvin

I'm sure your zebras will be the same as the AC-130 'zebra 1 and zebra 2' ...go to the setup menu and set zebra 1 to 90% and then set zebra 2 to off...you can use dual zebras a bit later when you understand them better

Then press the zebra button on the camera and point it towards something bright and you will see diagonal lines on the LCD that indicate that area is a bit over exposed. When you are shooting with zebras on in bright sunlight bits of the image may have lines on them but usually can be ignored or just recompose your image .... where you get a situation where there are LOT'S on lines on the screen it's an indication that the entire scene is too bright for the camera and THEN you can switch in an ND fiilter.

Just start with baby steps and use just zebra1 and set it to 90% and your overall exposure should be good and you have a visual warning on the screen when things are getting too bright!!!!

Chris