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November 7th, 2009, 09:47 PM | #1 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL
Posts: 167
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HMC-40 at Navy UDT-SEAL Museum
Today was the annual Muster Drill Veteran's Day celebration at our local museum. The Panny got another workout.
I didn't get to put a lot of the video I shot of the actual SEALS demonstrations rappelling out of the helicopters. Some of it was overexposed because I was shooting into direct sunlight as the helicopters were moving out with the men dangling from the rappelling line. I left it on 1/60 shutter and shot at 1080/60i. I didn't notice any motion smear with the helicopter blades spinning, but of course I'm almost half asleep after a 12-hour day...:) Here's the URL: Videos: Muster XXIV packs in the crowds - Treasure Coast, FL | TCPalm.com |
November 8th, 2009, 05:37 PM | #2 |
Inner Circle
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 8,441
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Hi Sherri
It all looks good!!! The spinning blades looked strange at most times and I noticed that with the samples Chris posted vehicle wheels had the same effect. However we would only notice it cos we are looking for it!! Other viewers wouldn't even see it!! Great footage and your clip is much appreciated!!! Chris |
November 8th, 2009, 07:33 PM | #3 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL
Posts: 167
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Thanks, Chris
I'm trying to go little by little to learn this camera. I'm now starting to experiment with the scene file settings. I haven't had the nerve to play with the settings when out shooting work assignments. But on my days off I'm going to drive my cat crazy by trailing her around the house to test various scene file configurations. I'd like to find a combination of settings that will give me rich colors in bright sunlight without overexposing. I'm going to search a couple of forums to see what other people have done with their settings. |
November 9th, 2009, 09:38 AM | #4 |
Barry Wan Kenobi
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,863
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For rich colors use the CINE-LIKE matrix, and crank up the CHROMA LEVEL as far as you want it to go. +7 will result in some Technicolor-style color saturation, probably too much for any normal footage but hey, you said you wanted to experiment...
If you like the rich & saturated look, you may also like the higher contrast that comes from lowering the master pedestal and switching the gamma over to B.PRESS. To avoid overexposing, set the KNEE on low, and consider changing the A.Iris level to be a few notches lower. But the problem is that the HMC40 doesn't really, truly have *enough* neutral density filter. If you really want to avoid overexposing outdoors and get better-quality footage across the board, get a good two-stop (ND.6) or three-stop (ND.9) neutral density filter. I recommend the B+W or Heliopan filters; the HMC40 takes a 43mm size. |
November 9th, 2009, 10:25 AM | #5 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL
Posts: 167
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Thanks for the additional info, Barry
I came across some scene file settings that I'm going to try. The poster, in fact, said they were based on some settings that you had posted earlier. I'm also reading the Panasonic HMC150 scene file settings handbook. While I like a sharp image, I'm afraid to crank up the detail or v detail for fear of introducing the "blooming" effect when panning picket fences or encountering stripes in a scene. Would you recommend leaving those levels at zero? And I ordered a UV filter and neutral density filter just last night as a matter of fact...:) |
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