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October 19th, 2006, 07:02 AM | #121 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mobile, Ala.
Posts: 30
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film-to-DV transfer
Hi
I'm trying to convert several reels of 8mm film to DV. I have an old projector (probably from the 60s, but it works), and I'm using a JVC GY-DV5000 to capture the video. I have the projector and camera set side-by-side, both focused on the same point on a screen mounted 12 feet away. My problem is this: When I'm watching the video capture, the brightness dims approximately every 60 frames (two seconds on my timeline). It looks perfect for 30 frames, and then it fades out and fades back in. Does this problem relate to inconsistent frame rates or interlacing? Or is it a problem with my projector? I do have access to an HD110 if the problem is the former. Any input is appreciated here. Thanks very much.
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www.damdirtyapes.com |
November 27th, 2006, 03:31 PM | #122 |
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 496
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AJ-HDX900 Glass options
I'm finally making the transition into HD with the HDX900, but have a few questions about glass. If you could only have one lens, what would be ideal (fast, wide-angle zoom?) for 2/3" HD glass? What would be the most affordable solution without compromising image quality? I have heard of people using SLR lenses and a GG converter as a cheaper alternative to expensive 2/3"HD glass. Basically any advice is appreciated.
Thanks! John DeLuca |
November 27th, 2006, 05:55 PM | #123 |
Inner Circle
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 2,054
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Dry storage tip
For those who are packing away equipment for long-term storage, or are concerned with buildup of moisture in closed containers (including underwater camera housings), here's something I use a lot: Drierite.
A pound is about $8 or so, depending on where you buy it from. Here in Hawaii I get it from Hawaii Chemical on King Street near Middle Street. I store photographic equipment in large steel ammo cans and put some of this in there with it. Haven't ever had a problem with mildew on any lenses in two decades. Surplus steel ammo cans are cheap and have sturdy rubber seals which are waterproof. http://www.drierite.com/default.cfm Look for the "indicating" Drierite that is blue when it's working and turns pink when it's exhausted. This stuff can be re-activated in an oven by heating it up for an hour at 210° C or 425° F. It's reusable. And because it has its own indicator, you'll know if it's still working with a quick visual inspection. You'll need to put the Drierite into some sort of container as the bottle itself doesn't work as a dehumidifier. Not unless you take off the top. I use old translucent Fuji Film containers. A 3/8" hole is punched in the top. #4 mesh Drierite is loaded into the container. I then put a small square of paper towel over the opening and snap the top back on. The hole I punched in the top will let the moisture get absorbed past the paper towel. The paper towel is there just to keep any dust from the Drierite from escaping out of the film container.
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Dean Sensui Exec Producer, Hawaii Goes Fishing |
December 8th, 2006, 02:14 PM | #124 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Simsbury, CT
Posts: 247
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NLE company banners
You know those big banners that you often see hanging on the walls in edit suites with the name "Avid" or "Final Cut Pro" on them? I'm not sure if banner is the correct word, perhaps "wall hanging". In any case, does anyone know where one can get one? Preferably "Apple" or "Final Cut Pro," but "Avid" or "Sony" or "Canon" would suffice ...
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