8mm film to digital questions

[Dean Sensui]

The trick to eliminating flicker is to get the projector's shutter blades to sync with the camera. Ideally, it's a one-to-one ratio of film frames to progressive video frames.

For free-running projectors some Sony cameras have a "clear scan" feature which can greatly reduce or eliminate flicker. It's intended for those times when a camera based on 60 Hz lights are used with 50 Hz lights. I've used that feature with good success.

The sharpest way to "see" the film is to have the camera look into the projector lens. This means having to reduce the intensity of the lamp in the projector. That also has the advantage of preventing the film from getting burned. By looking directly into the projector lens, the camera is actually getting a microscopic view of the emulsion of the film. Projection losses are eliminated and you don't have to work in a blacked-out room.

The image you'll get will be flopped left-to-right, but that can be fixed by software. The film speed of 18 frames/second can also be fixed by software, changing the frame rate from 18 fps to 24 or 30.

I have a system here that I need to work on. A friend who used to do conversions was cleaning out his storage and gave me the setup, which needed some minor repairs. I'm also planning to make a VariZoom controller "trip" the Sony EX1 each time the projector brings up a frame. This would provide a frame-to-frame transfer.

There might be companies that sell conversion equipment. Be careful, tho. I bought one and it turned out to be quite poor. The converted projector tended to damage the film. Luckily I tested it on leader material and didn't mess up actual films.

[Bill Cowell]

The trick to eliminating flicker is to get the projector's shutter blades to sync with the camera. Ideally, it's a one-to-one ratio of film frames to progressive video frames.

For free-running projectors some Sony cameras have a "clear scan" feature which can greatly reduce or eliminate flicker. It's intended for those times when a camera based on 60 Hz lights are used with 50 Hz lights. I've used that feature with good success.

Yes, Dean, I've checked out a few of those conversion machines, and the customer reviews are generally negative. Even the more expensive ones are prone to problems and don't deliver a very good result. I think if I'm going to have to settle for "amateur" results, I don't want to pay professional prices.

Good luck with your VariZoom controller. That would definitely be the way to go. You're obviously more tech savvy that I am. :)

[Gordon Hoffman]

Bill I believe your GH5 should have a synchro scan mode in the menu that might help with the flicker.

Gordon

[Bill Cowell]

Indeed it does, Gordon!

Dang! I did suspect there must be an adjustment for the camera, but I had no idea where to look. Iv'e had the camera for about 6 months, but it's so "feature-packed", (as the ads say), I still haven't learned everything there is to know. Absolutely love the camera!

Thank you so much, Gordon, for your tip. I've looked and found and set that setting, and it completely eliminates computer screen flicker. Now I just have to test it on projected 8mm film.

I'll let you know how I go. :)

EDIT: It works a treat. I set the frame rate to 24.1, and all flicker is totally gone. Image is brighter too, naturally. Thanks again, Gordon.

[Gordon Hoffman]

Your welcome Bill. I'm glad it worked for you. It's good to know that it does work for doing film. I know my GH4 has a lot of settings in the menu and I'm no where near knowing what a lot of them do and the GH5 looks like it has a lot more. All the best.

Gordon

[Bill Cowell]

I've had a GH4 for a couple of years and I never knew it also had the synchro scan setting. Now I'm wondering what other good stuff it can do, that I don't know about. Best read the manual again. :)

[Bruce Dempsey]

https://petapixel.com/2018/01/11/kod...-film-scanner/