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January 7th, 2011, 09:48 PM | #136 |
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Thanks, Chris! I appreciate the info. So to be clear, you can also change the aperture on lenses without aperture rings (via exposure compensation, aka +/-), and hitting the shutter button to apply the change won't interrupt the shot?
And thanks for the advice regarding auto mode and long takes. I am aware of the limitations and challenges of using DSLRs for such shooting. |
January 7th, 2011, 09:57 PM | #137 |
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Christopher, hello!
I don't have my camera with me right now (my regular DP has it for testing and familiarization) but I believe that you can just change the +/- without hitting the shutter button. But even if you did, that doesn't interrupt video acquisition, which is started and stopped using another button at the rear of the camera. In fact, I know it doesn't because on one of my earlier tests I had the AF-S going while in shot and constantly bumped the regular shutter button while shooting to update the AF. If you like that funky, LA Law style of shot, then that's fine. For me, it's another color in the palette - useful for when that style applies. I'd say the same for auto exposure and +/- which, by the way, can be set up to give around a 5 stop range, which should be enough for everybody, given a reasonably accurate exposure before the shot is started. Cheers! Chris
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January 7th, 2011, 10:34 PM | #138 |
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Thanks for the info!
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January 19th, 2011, 10:55 AM | #139 |
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Record to an external deck eg nanoflash?
Just wondering if any one has tried recording a signal out to something like the nanoFlash? How were the results?
Thanks David |
January 19th, 2011, 12:59 PM | #140 |
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David, hi!
I'd be interested to find out as well. Also what kind of HDMI to HD-SDI box would be suitable for this application, since I believe the NanoFlash is HD-SDI in only.
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January 26th, 2011, 06:40 AM | #141 |
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Video signal out of the D7000?
Still wondering if anyone has tried recording to an external deck from a D7000 (Nannoflash, AJA etc)? Would be keen to know what the signal is, how it looks etc....
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January 26th, 2011, 06:47 AM | #142 |
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David,
I don't think it's possible under the current firmware - I've found no way to turn off the extensive information displays that accompany (and are superimposed on) the video from the HDMI. Also, the video itself is reduced in size on the image with letter and pillar boxing. The resolution of the actual image on the 1280 signal is about 900 (960?) pixels wide. |
January 26th, 2011, 06:53 AM | #143 |
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Thanks Eric
Thanks Eric,
Still looks like the image quality is good when recording within the camera.... just wish there were more options for frame rates. Perhaps I had better sit tight until the rumored d800 appears.. David |
January 26th, 2011, 07:06 AM | #144 |
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I'll buy the D800 when it comes out. I love my D700.
I think there's room for both cameras in most any kit - the D7000 as a compact spare, once it's superseded. In the mean time I think the D7000 is the best all around DSLR made and worth purchasing. Last edited by Eric Pascarelli; January 26th, 2011 at 07:55 AM. |
January 30th, 2011, 12:28 PM | #145 |
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Hola,
last night we tryed the D7000 during my girlfriend show on a teather. Today i watched what i shot and i noticed 2 little green pixels on the left of the screen. Is it the same issue somebody was talkink about a few weeks ago? On a shooting situation like the one o tested last night with lights changing every couple of seconds, what are your suggestions? For example don't go over.....(value) of Iso, preset etc..... I live in Pal land so which are the best setting to set to record ? Many thanks and sorry for the question, this is the first time we'r testing this baby with interior light gracias |
February 2nd, 2011, 01:04 PM | #146 |
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DSLR Slow Motion footage
Does anyone know of a good solution to smoother slo motion in post. I am using the 7D and the D7000 and they both stutter when I slow the clips down....I know it has to do with shooting at 24P but it still shows up when shooting at 30P...Any suggestion...Thanks
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February 2nd, 2011, 01:16 PM | #147 |
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Use a motion estimation plugin. The best is Kronos by The Foundry. It's supposedly built into After Effects, too and is certainly part of The Foundry's composting app Nuke X.
There's also Twixtor, which is quite popular and less expensive. Also, be sure you are working with an NLE timeline that is the native frame rate of your footage. If you put 24p footage into a 30 fps timeline, extra frames are added to keep the apparent playback speed. When you slow that down, the unpleasant cadence introduced by this will be further exaggerated. |
February 2nd, 2011, 01:17 PM | #148 |
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Did some very successful slomo just using the speed settings in Apple's Compressor, part of the FCP package. Extended the clip to 400% of orginal length - i.e. playing it .25 speed, which would equate to 96fps. Nary a stutter anywhere, and this for a national TV commercial, broadcast quality.
Also there's Twixtor, which is IMO the best bang for the buck - does ramping as well. And Kronos, that Eric just mentioned, but it's very expensive... HTH Cheers! Chris
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February 2nd, 2011, 03:37 PM | #149 |
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Using compressor with the motion compensated re-timing will give OK results most of the time as this is using similar algorithms to either Twixtor or Kronos. However NONE of these methods are foolproof and while the motion will be smoothed out - what ALL of these methods will introduce is unwanted smearing as the application is essentially making up a frame that doesn't exist - so its a best guess and its often wrong.
This looks good but watch it full screen and you can clearly see the smearing - so you solve the judder problem only to be left with a smearing problem - hardly what I would call a broadcast quality result. Twixtor and Kronos have a multitude of settings which you can spend hours on to try and fix this problem - sometimes it works, other times it will fail. Try a simple test - stand in front of a camera and move your arm up across your body and face - then back down. Slow that down with either application and you will get a mushy smear trail that is very hard to fix. You have a 7D - best bet is to simply shoot 60fps and then re time that to 30 or 24 for silky smooth slow-motion in any situation - no plugin needed. Of course using the 7D in this way will potentially introduce other slight quality issues but for me its the best option. |
February 2nd, 2011, 11:44 PM | #150 |
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DSLR Slow Motion footage
Thank you....I will start with twixtor and Kronos....I will let you know if it works
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