The best way quickly edit 2 camera setup in real time

[Mark Light]

I'm shooting a situation where I need to edit 2 cameras in real time- I't nothing fancy so I don't need top of the line equipment. This company is updating there systems. Previously they were using VHS cameras , outputting through svhs cables to a mixer where they would make a master copy and output it to a vhs deck. They want to go "digital" but they didnt want to spend a money. So I suggested just getting 2 GL2's or something similar. Continue going through svhs cables to the mixer, and then instead of recording to vhs tapes, just recording to a dvd recorder. Here's what I need advice on-

dvd recorder suggestions - something reliable, or maybe suggestions on how to capture to a computer HD - so we can output to dvd from there ( remember we need something simple/ easy)

- they also need a new video mixer- something that can input at least 3 svhs cables or so and output as well. - any suggestions?

Thanks for the help

[Glenn Chan]

Maybe you want to record to DV, to make editing easy. If you record to DVD, the MPEG2 stream is difficult to edit.
To record to DV, you could do something like:
A- Record onto a miniDV deck like a sony DSR11 or Panasonic DV1000.
B- Record straight into a computer. Use something like a Canopus ADVC-110 to convert. *You may want to set the ADVC-100 to 0 IRE setup instead of 7.5 IRE.

Computer: A Mac Mini would be a good choice. Use iDVD to burn DVDs. Use iMovie to do basic editing, or FCE (but avoid both).
Final Cut's capture now may stop at X minutes... take the capture now limit off.
iMovie and iDVD are both ridiculously easy to use.

iDVD does not produce excellent quality if you need more than an hour. Things get trickier if you want to do that... because you can only put so much onto a DVD. It'll do over an hour though. Compressor (part of Final Cut something) will encode DVDs well, but it takes a few to several hours to do it well.

Backup: Use the VHS deck as backup?

C- Record to a hard drive recorder (nnovia? firestore). Ingest will be faster than A.


2- 7.5 IRE setup:
Analog black level is supposed to be at 7.5 IRE for North American NTSC. Japan NTSC and Europe is 0 IRE.
Most DV equipment uses 0 IRE as black level instead of 7.5 IRE.
Bottom line is that you want to make sure all your equipment is consistent in the way they handle black level.
Consumer DV, low-end DVCAM (i.e. DSR11) - typically 0 IRE.
Canopus ADVC-110, professional DV gear (i.e. DSR-1700) - typically 7.5 IRE, can be switched to 0 IRE black level.

- they also need a new video mixer- something that can input at least 3 svhs cables or so and output as well. - any suggestions?

3- Most new mixers I've seen start at about $1,500, with Edirol / Roland being the cheapest. They are analog in (with firewire in, there are cable length limitations). Making cuts on that mixer is a bizarre fingerful, which is slightly annoying.

What do you have now?
Something like a modded Panasonic MX-50 would seem reasonable. Or just stick to what you have now, it should be fine.

4- I'd probably just get a computer to record on, since that'll let you add titles and things of that nature.
Your mixer is probably fine.
If you get new cameras (most likely worthwhile), be sure to get the same model of course (otherwise the colors don't match). You might also want to look into the Panasonic DVC30... it might do a little better in stage lighting since it can capture a little extra dynamic range.

Focus is tricky with the DVC30... it has one of those spinny focus rings (a big one). You could be ok just using a single focal point. I haven't used the GL2.

5- The reason not to use a computer is that it can screw up. i.e. not knowing about Final Cut limiting capture now to X minutes.
A backup would be a reasonable solution.