8mm/super8mm transfer to dvd or vhs

[Andrew Todd]

anyone interested in this service email me at andrew_m_todd@hotmail.com

[Alessandro Machi]

I don't recommend anyone transfer precious and high resolution home movie film to either VHS or DVD UNLESS it first goes to mini-dv.

[Andrew Todd]

Thats what i do. I use mini dv.

[Alessandro Machi]

I don't recall it being mentioned on your website that's why I brought it up, but if you do, cool.

[Andrew Todd]

i dont have a website. :D

[Tom Hardwick]

I do a lot of such transfer work, but the signal from my VX2k is fed Firewire direct to the PC. That way I can stop, back-track and restart at any time. Films arrive in all sorts of condition, and the more you're prepared to stop and start, the better your final result will be.

I rate the projection lens as the most important accessory. If you find a good sharp prime you're in, but most film projectors were more interested in getting lots of light to the centre of the screen, and blow the other disciplines.

Once the footage is on the timeline it can be manipulated to endless degrees. Colour correction is the biggest single change I ever have to make.

tom.

[Bill Rankin]

I have wondered how 8 mm film is transferred to digital. Can someone point me in the direction of how that is accomplished?

Thanks,
Bill Rankin

Rankin-Imagery.com (coming soon to a browser near you)

[Tom Hardwick]

There are various methods Bill. Most 'home brew' solutions involve projecting the footage and re-filming it with a video camera. The footage can be front projected onto a screen or back projected onto a transcluscent frosted glass via a front silvered mirror.

Then there's flying spot telecine which is technically better but which costs a great deal more to have done. Elmo even made an 8 mm projector with a CCD chip in place of the projection lens, but it wasn't a commercial success.

tom.

[Richard Alvarez]

Bill, It so happens there is a great service righ there in Houston.

http://www.moviestuff.tv/transfers.html

They transfer, and also manufacture and sell transfer equipment.

[Bill Rankin]

Thank you Tom and Richard.

I'll check out the website...

Bill

[Jonathan Jones]

I use the Video Workprinter XP from moviestuff that Richard mentioned above. This piece of equipment produces excellent results.
-Jon

[Sean McHenry]

Jonathan,
What was the total cost of the Workprinter XP? I don't see pricing on his site. I did write him before the holidays but haven't heard back yet. I am just getting into Super 8 and I am trying to figure out the break even point for buying my own printer.

Thanks,

Sean

[Dave Campbell]

So, I have a whole bunch of file I need to transfer.
Can I rent the equipment anywhere?
Is there is used equipment for sale anywhere.
What software is used to interface to these setups?

Dave

[Richard Alvarez]

Dave,
You can buy the workprinter, and transfer it yourself, or pay someone to transfer for you... or go the 'poor man's' telecine, and aim the video camera at the projection screen and shoot it yourself... rough, but somewhat passable. The key being to have a variable speed projector.

[Dave Campbell]

I would like to be able to rent something.

Here are some thoughts and questions from my Dad. Any idea to some answers to some of these questions? Thanks.

These were two s/w programs suggested.

http://www.alternaware.com/



http://www.bensoftware.com/capturemate/




"Hi Dave,



Thanks for those sites. Yes, I was aware of them. Here is a list of things we will need.



We have three different film formats, 16 mm, Super 8 mm and 8 mm.
Each one of these formats will require a unique projector.
We will capture frames at the rate of about one frame per second.
Each frame will be given a file number as it is put on the computer hard drive.
The size of each frame will be approximately 1 megabit.
Movie film contains about 30 frames per second or 1800 frames per minute.
For a 100 ft reel of 16 mm movie film it takes about 3 minutes to view it in real time.
So the storage needed for each 100 ft reel is approximately 5.4 Gigabits.




Here is a list of the things we need to learn or questions.



1. How do we accomplish color enhancement / correction? I think that we will need to treat each segment uniquely.

2. I can do this tedious process as it will take quite a bit of time.

3. How do we prepare the individual frames for optimum viewing? Fortunately we do not have to worry about sound.

4. It appears that a dual layer DVD will be just right for holding 100 ft of 16 mm movie film.



Here are things that I have to do to make it work. (for 16 mm film)



1. Purchase a Canon G2 Digital Camera. (This is a 4 MP camera and costs used about $200.

2. Make some framework to hold the camera in front of the projector lens.

3. Design and install a good light source in back of the film.

4. Build a simple timing circuit that will:

a. Move each frame into position with the stepper motor. (already have the motor and driver)

b. Trigger the camera to take a picture of each frame when in position.

c. Move this frame into the computer and provide it with a unique frame number.



Actually we are not too far away from making this thing work. However, I want it to be fun! So no pressure on this project please.



Here is what you could do to help.



1. Find out how these programs number each frame and what the maximum number of frames per clip are.

We should have a maximum of 100,000 frames if possible.



2. Find out when they process these frames for color correction, exposure correction, etc.

3. I will supply you with a short clip. It will have about 100 frames or run for about 3 seconds.

a. I will do this with my Nikon digital camera.

4. You can assemble these film frames into a video.

5. This will give us a head start on getting the format correct. Most folks use 3:2 pull down to get the film to look good as a video.

6. Then it should be a piece of cake to put this short video on a DVD.





Probably more things that I have not thought about but this is a start.

"

Dave