green lens flare ?

[Doug Tessler]

Well I am really disappointed in this camera and lens so i guess i will just send it back and purchase the EX-1 even though its horrible for handheld work ugh. i love the form factor of the JVC HM 700 but my HV-30 looks better and it cost me 550 dollars (:

I readjusted the back focus and it helped but the color fringing on the fuji 17x5 lenses along with the weird green lens flair that happen in high lights and shooting into high contrast settings is just not good


Doug

[Sean Adair]

Originally Posted by Doug Tessler

Well I am really disappointed in this camera and lens so i guess i will just send it back and purchase the EX-1 even though its horrible for handheld work ugh. i love the form factor of the JVC HM 700 but my HV-30 looks better and it cost me 550 dollars (:

I readjusted the back focus and it helped but the color fringing on the fuji 17x5 lenses along with the weird green lens flair that happen in high lights and shooting into high contrast settings is just not good
Doug

Proper back focus is essential! :)
Have you tuned the color to the lens? You need to go into the white paint settings.
The process settings do allow some real ugly setups because of their power. You might check with Tim D. for a rough setup before you give up entirely....

I'm surprised you are so disappointed. With decent light conditions, I'd expect nice results (like Phil Blooms). It's true some consumer cams, and cmos might look better under stress or unlit conditions.

[Doug Tessler]

Thanks I have a filming on wednesday for a plastic surgeon and all the shots are closeups with before and after shots . I notice closeup is where the fringing chroma problems happen and with high intensity light.How do I do a white paint setting ?

Doug

[Kenn Christenson]

Sounds like what I used to see with my old DV500. I'd see the green flare every time I passed by a lighting fixture. Kind of a problem, when you're shooting chandeleirs in a fancy restaurant.

[Tim Dashwood]

Originally Posted by Doug Tessler

How do I do a white paint setting ?

It's actually the white shade setting (white paint adjusts the white point allowing you to warm or cool the image.) Check out part 2 around the 7:00 minute mark.

[Marcello Mazzilli]

I'm having the same sort of problems Doug has. My experience is with more "easy" cameras. I grew up with a Sony PD150 and then with a Sony Z1 and now with the HM700 I find myself a little nervous. Back focus, white paint, ... I have the manual but may be is not enough. Also I seem to notice quite some amount of noise, not only in poorly lit areas (still.. why on the other cameras maybe I lost info an everything was black... but didn't get noise?) but almost everywhere I have a plain color fill if I watch it close I see the image "frying". To little light? Doesn't seem to me. Too much? Neither. I tried to "play" with gamma and black and yes, I can reduce the noise (or better.. hide it) by contrasting the picture... but that's the only thing. Proper help is needed ! :) thanks in advance.

Also... I get (Fujinon 17x) some red edge on a white object in the distance if I keep it on the left and a green(ish) edge if I keep it on the right of the picture

[Marcello Mazzilli]

This is a test I did this morning with the HM700, at 1920x1080x25p. Please download rightclicking the mouse and saving.

www.siroma.com/temp/Test.zip

I shot a white building on purpose. The shot is at full-tele.
From this picture you can see the many problems I have.
I might be doing something wrong but I think also this camera has many noise problems.

First you can see the red (pink) and the green(ish) vertical lines on the edge of the white building (windows and balconies).

I think I done backfocus correctly because Focus Assist gives me full focus both at tele and wide. I also corrected the White Shade increasing by 15 points just the green. Some help might be needed here: will every HM700 + Fujinon 17x have exactly the same settings or will settings change camera by camera? The upper part is a little red so that might be my mistake in white shading but changes didn't seem to affect the vertical fringes.

Then you can see a lot of noise. Not only in the dark gray area, inside the balcony and on the windows, but also on the white area. Maybe you do not appreciate it much just because this is a still but I can assure you that if you watch the video you get a continuosly "frying" image.

I'm not a DP and I might be missing many things here... but changing colour settings, toe, knee etc... doesn't seem to solve much.

I'd like to see some of Bloom's or Dashwood's tests in full res video as it comes out from the camera. Does anybody have a link?

[Sean Adair]

I'm not phased by examples that make the camera look bad. I can do that with any camera.
The white shade (that was a slip-up before thanks Tim), helps overall tinting, but doesn't help with chromatic aberration (color fringing). Color fringing is present under harsh conditions even with good glass. Aperture settings and zoom setting are factors (use ND, adjust distance). If you have no other choice, it can be fixed in post (AE plugins for instance).

Noise is something I've struggled with in the past, but it's also manageable in most situations where light is appropriate for shooting. Generally, I wouldn't say the camera excels in marginal existing light conditions. If thats what you do, I'd look elsewhere.