Anyone using the HD100 with SteadyCam?

[Marc Colemont]

I was wondering which SteadyCam systems works well with the HD100.
I guess the SteadyCamJR is a bit small to be used?

[Jiri Bakala]

Most likely. It's even too small for cameras like DSR170 and Z1U, especially if you add any accessories like wide angle or wireless microphone receiver.

[Charles Papert]

Of the Tiffen models, the Flyer would be the optimal way to go.

[Brian Duke]

I will be using my HD100U with my Glidecam once I assembly it and learn a few tricks.

[Marc Colemont]

Thanks for the info.

[Jose L. Martínez Díaz]

Got it to work on a system with the PRO arm, just using the lightest springs and adding a kilo or so of weight on the camera (batt pack), but I supposse the Provis and SK's would do well.

Jose

[Jun Tang]

We assemble and test the JVC HD100/Micro35 & the Magiqcam IIp.

Taken that the JVC guzzles more fuel than desired, we had it powered by the IDX switronix batteries. Which add some (alot) of weight to the top and rear. We also use the aladin follow focus unit, which adds weight in the front.

With the added weight of the shims for the redrock micro, the rig got very top heavy.

So we eliminated the metal bar where the quick release plate goes. And instead of adding all the shims...we used one of the smallest shims that REdRock sells.

We had Karl at Cinetech lighten the rig for us and took a bunch of unnecessary weight of the camera such as the viewfinder (which you don't use on a rig) the ear piece.

All in all, it's a nice rig.

AFter using the rig for awhile we learn alot. We learn why the steadicam operators are worth their weight in gold. We learn we should take a steadicam workshop. We learn how to modify the gear to our specs.

Right now...we are looking to get a "wormgear" that can move the camera x-y and for/aft without moving too many component. If we can't, I think we'll try to customize.

Charles....you have any suggestion on the worm gear?

[Charles Papert]

The worm gear is a pretty sophisticated piece of engineering Jun. I would recommend trying to work with the Bogen quick release if you can.

Your camera battery belongs at the bottom of the rig, double-dutying as the monitor power source. There's no point in flying two batteries if you are trying to save weight. And it's a shame to have to strip the camera down so far as it will slow you down when switching between Steadicam and conventional shooting modes. I can't remember if the current Magiqcam has internal wiring of power and video at this point (?) but if not, that would well be worth adding to your rig, just use a fat gauge of curly wire for the power cable to accomodate the potential voltage drop over that distance. Certainly you will be finding the camera front heavy at that point, but if you absolutely cannot balance it at that point, consider making an intermediate plate between the camera and the quick release (or having an extra long quick release plate made up).

As you've seen, having quick and subtle fingertip control of fore and aft is absolutely critical (it's important to have it for side to side balance as well). Steadicam operators check trim before each shot to make sure things haven't shifted (often the case when resting the rig on the shoulder), and will also trim the fore-and-aft for the individual shot. I've long been horrified at the Glidecam loosen-4-screws-and-shove-the-plate-forward method for fore and aft adjustment, something I stressed with John at Animagique.

[Greg Boston]

Originally Posted by Charles Papert

The worm gear is a pretty sophisticated piece of engineering Jun. I would recommend trying to work with the Bogen quick release if you can.

I've long been horrified at the Glidecam loosen-4-screws-and-shove-the-plate-forward method for fore and aft adjustment, something I stressed with John at Animagique.

Chas,

You might want to look around for a used semiconductor equipment vendor. Most of the scopes used in the fab have an X-Y moveable stage riding on a bearing rail and moved via a knurled knob attached to a wormgear. A friction lock is usually employed to keep the stage from moving under the scope lens.

Obviously, this would require some adaptation engineering but you probably have folks that could help you with that.

-gb-

[Jun Tang]

Originally Posted by Charles Papert

The worm gear is a pretty sophisticated piece of engineering Jun. I would recommend trying to work with the Bogen quick release if you can.

I've long been horrified at the Glidecam loosen-4-screws-and-shove-the-plate-forward method for fore and aft adjustment, something I stressed with John at Animagique.

Yes...I called steadicam and they said "off the top of their head" that it might cost around $1000.

We currently have a quick release bogen plate on it that comes with Magiqcam and another that comes with the 35mm adapter. We just want something to move it in increments without adding too many plates and raising the camera.

Hopefully John sees the post and improves on it.

As far as the battery, we just didn't have time to modify everything we needed. There was only two guys in camera department and we had to take care of the follow - with very short amount of time....

a) modify the Magiqcam (me)
b) learn to rack focus with Wireless Follow focus unit (me)
c) one had to calibrate and focus on the 35mm unit (which was me)
d) gear the Nikon lenses (me)
e) many other things I can't remember as I am typing this.

I didn't mean to make the other camera guy out as irresponsible...he was swamped with the things he had to do...finding adapters...etc

When we finally get the rig to the way we want...I'll see if we can post any pictures.

[Greg Corke]

Just got the flyer yesterday and highly recommend. It's an incredible bit of kit.
Worth taking even a demo if you get the chance.

Happy flying Greg corke