camera seems cold at DVinfo.net

Tom Stretton · August 27th, 2009, 01:44 PM

Hi everyone
i wonder if anyone could help,I'm sorry if my question makes me sound like a philistine,for 2 years Ive had a Sony hc3 and have got really interested in video,so i bought myself a Jvc gy hd 110 i and have had it for the past 3 months,as its took me this time to come to terms with the world of difference so Ive not asked this question,ive noticed in multi camera editing the jvc seems a very cold blue-ish picture in comparison to the warm colorful Sony,Ive used color correction to get it warm,but it would be nice to get a better result straight from the camera, now i know the jvc is a better camera so could someone point me in the right direction to where I'm going wrong,sorry if the question seems dumb to most of you,but we all have to start somewhere,and any help given will be much appreciated
thank you Tom

Adam Letch · August 28th, 2009, 01:50 AM

if you do a search under the scene recipes, download True Colour 3 or TC3, and enter those parametres in your advanced matrix settings, you'll find your colour will be warmer and richer.
If your use to a consumer cam, they super saturate your colours as well, as non professional people tend to percieve super rich colours as better, and you'll find as much as HDV allows that your colour gamut is more natural with the JVC.
For professional work, I very rarely never use colour correction of some sort in post.

Enjoy

Tom Stretton · August 28th, 2009, 01:58 PM

Thank you Adam,your reply is really appreciated and i will look into that,as i said i usually do the colour correction, but i was struggling as the recording was very cold and blue,thank you once again,
Tom

Adam Letch · August 28th, 2009, 08:45 PM

I ommitted to ask u as Im not sure of
your knowledge level, is are you white
balancing using a white balance card?
These cameras are best to manually whitebalance
as with most pro cams

Bob Hart · August 28th, 2009, 11:22 PM

I understand that Paolo Ciccone's Trucolor V3 preset is intended to enable as much colour information to be packed into the HDV codec as is possible for the most post production colour grading options to be available.

Manually whitebalance as Adam suggests. Take care to do your manual whitebalance in the subject space in the planned lighting, even if you have to carry your camera closer to it to get a frame of the white card.

You have a wonderful grab bag of manually selectable options that scream out for you to venture into and learn to play with. It takes a while but is worth it. Once you have mastered them, become accustomed to them and finally go back to your Sony, you will think your fingers have been cut off.

There are some cares to be taken with your camera, the most significant is to look after that fragile firewire port. Never - ever hotswap - ever at all. The computer for capture and the camera must be cold hard powered-off dead, switched off at the mains supply before you touch that firewire cable to camera. Many computers these days soft-switch and the boards are still "alive" so there may be stray voltages present.

The same goes for disconnecting, everything switched off, dead and having been given time to become dead, like a minute or so for power capacitors to leak down.

Same goes for camera batteries, especially if you have the V-mount or Anton Bauer modification to a larger battery. Allow the camera to goes through its power-down cycle before slipping that dead battery off and slipping on a hot one. Don't put a battery on hot off the charger either. Give it about five minutes to settle down to its normal voltage.

Then before you plug it in, first "ground" the outside of the firewire plug cable shield by touching it to the shiny metal shield around an XLR socket to discharge any carpet sparks or strange potentials. I have seen them go across. If it is good enough best practice for aircraft refullers it is good enough for your delicate electronic equipment.

On a multicamera shoot of a music gig which included two REDs, a SI2K, a Sony PMW-EX1, the JVC HD100 images to me were the most pleasing of the lot and I don't even own the camera. We used Paolo's Trucolour V3, plus "detail off" (which he recommends off-site) plus blackstretch.

When detail is selected "off", the image appears apparently softer. You can add digital sharpness in post but once it is baked into the recorded image, you can do less with any unpleasant artifacts in-camera edge enhancement may introduce.

Tom Stretton · August 31st, 2009, 07:30 PM

thank you to everyone,i know its difficult when people are asking fairly basic question,(im a satellite engine and when the question "do you need a dish for that,its frustrating) but i am wanting to learn, i read about 3 or 4 hours a night and have been for the last few months,but i feel like i haven't even scratched the surface,
i did what Adam said and it made such a difference in fact i think that the sony looked the worst when i used them both on Saturday
so once more thank
Tom

August 27th, 2009, 01:44 PM	#1
Tom Stretton New Boot Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: spain Posts: 13	camera seems cold Hi everyone i wonder if anyone could help,I'm sorry if my question makes me sound like a philistine,for 2 years Ive had a Sony hc3 and have got really interested in video,so i bought myself a Jvc gy hd 110 i and have had it for the past 3 months,as its took me this time to come to terms with the world of difference so Ive not asked this question,ive noticed in multi camera editing the jvc seems a very cold blue-ish picture in comparison to the warm colorful Sony,Ive used color correction to get it warm,but it would be nice to get a better result straight from the camera, now i know the jvc is a better camera so could someone point me in the right direction to where I'm going wrong,sorry if the question seems dumb to most of you,but we all have to start somewhere,and any help given will be much appreciated thank you Tom Last edited by Tom Stretton; August 27th, 2009 at 01:52 PM. Reason: missed information

August 28th, 2009, 01:50 AM	#2
Adam Letch Major Player Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 414	Welcome Tom to the forum if you do a search under the scene recipes, download True Colour 3 or TC3, and enter those parametres in your advanced matrix settings, you'll find your colour will be warmer and richer. If your use to a consumer cam, they super saturate your colours as well, as non professional people tend to percieve super rich colours as better, and you'll find as much as HDV allows that your colour gamut is more natural with the JVC. For professional work, I very rarely never use colour correction of some sort in post. Enjoy

August 28th, 2009, 01:58 PM	#3
Tom Stretton New Boot Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: spain Posts: 13	Thank you Adam,your reply is really appreciated and i will look into that,as i said i usually do the colour correction, but i was struggling as the recording was very cold and blue,thank you once again, Tom Last edited by Tom Stretton; August 28th, 2009 at 06:22 PM. Reason: spelling

August 28th, 2009, 08:45 PM	#4
Adam Letch Major Player Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 414	Another thing I ommitted to ask u as Im not sure of your knowledge level, is are you white balancing using a white balance card? These cameras are best to manually whitebalance as with most pro cams

August 28th, 2009, 11:22 PM	#5
Bob Hart Inner Circle Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: PERTH. W.A. AUSTRALIA. Posts: 4,476	I understand that Paolo Ciccone's Trucolor V3 preset is intended to enable as much colour information to be packed into the HDV codec as is possible for the most post production colour grading options to be available. Manually whitebalance as Adam suggests. Take care to do your manual whitebalance in the subject space in the planned lighting, even if you have to carry your camera closer to it to get a frame of the white card. You have a wonderful grab bag of manually selectable options that scream out for you to venture into and learn to play with. It takes a while but is worth it. Once you have mastered them, become accustomed to them and finally go back to your Sony, you will think your fingers have been cut off. There are some cares to be taken with your camera, the most significant is to look after that fragile firewire port. Never - ever hotswap - ever at all. The computer for capture and the camera must be cold hard powered-off dead, switched off at the mains supply before you touch that firewire cable to camera. Many computers these days soft-switch and the boards are still "alive" so there may be stray voltages present. The same goes for disconnecting, everything switched off, dead and having been given time to become dead, like a minute or so for power capacitors to leak down. Same goes for camera batteries, especially if you have the V-mount or Anton Bauer modification to a larger battery. Allow the camera to goes through its power-down cycle before slipping that dead battery off and slipping on a hot one. Don't put a battery on hot off the charger either. Give it about five minutes to settle down to its normal voltage. Then before you plug it in, first "ground" the outside of the firewire plug cable shield by touching it to the shiny metal shield around an XLR socket to discharge any carpet sparks or strange potentials. I have seen them go across. If it is good enough best practice for aircraft refullers it is good enough for your delicate electronic equipment. On a multicamera shoot of a music gig which included two REDs, a SI2K, a Sony PMW-EX1, the JVC HD100 images to me were the most pleasing of the lot and I don't even own the camera. We used Paolo's Trucolour V3, plus "detail off" (which he recommends off-site) plus blackstretch. When detail is selected "off", the image appears apparently softer. You can add digital sharpness in post but once it is baked into the recorded image, you can do less with any unpleasant artifacts in-camera edge enhancement may introduce. Last edited by Bob Hart; August 28th, 2009 at 11:53 PM. Reason: error

August 31st, 2009, 07:30 PM	#6
Tom Stretton New Boot Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: spain Posts: 13	thanks to all thank you to everyone,i know its difficult when people are asking fairly basic question,(im a satellite engine and when the question "do you need a dish for that,its frustrating) but i am wanting to learn, i read about 3 or 4 hours a night and have been for the last few months,but i feel like i haven't even scratched the surface, i did what Adam said and it made such a difference in fact i think that the sony looked the worst when i used them both on Saturday so once more thank Tom