Are many people here still using their HD-1/10s?

[Graham Hickling]

Damon, If you can afford it, get the HD10 rather than the HD1. The main reason I say this is the HD1 has sharpening set quite high, and nonadjustable - whereas with the HD10 you can dial sharpness down.

[Carlos Rodriguez]

I still use mine as a b-cam w/my hd110 (when i shoot 30p) also to capture footage off my 110 into my nle. less stress for the big machine...

[Ken Hodson]

Originally Posted by Graham Hickling

whereas with the HD10 you can dial sharpness down.

There is no adjustment for EE on the HD10, but it is set at a much lower level then the HD1.

[Damon Gaskin]

Are the HD10's still even available? That one I know has alot more features, but I am in the us and haven't seen it available in a while to be honest.

[Zack Birlew]

eBay for the HD10U unfortunately.

The HD1 is still being sold in places like B&H Photo.

[Damon Gaskin]

Thanks Jack! Yes, that is exactly where I wqas looking was B&H(it really makes it a steal at the price to me at least), and the reviews there had great things to say about the camera, including the newer reviews. To be honest, I am looking for an upgrade from a TRV19 sony with of course external mic and also wireless. I am also eyeing something more expensive(FX7), but if I can get a good image out of the HD1 I am sold. I am pretty much going to use it for small projects, a few weddings(yes, I did one on the TRV19 and a second consumer cam, though, it really hurt my feelings that I had to due to low light and also no ability to change any settings whatsoever) and events. I know with the shutter speed options along with the aperture and probably turning the AGC off, that I should be able to pull a pretty good picture, especially compared to what I have now. Most importantly, it will be an intermediate camera for me to allow me to learn the possiblities I think.

From the clip that someone posted a link to with the kid eating chalk, the image seems pretty neutral and not oversaturated, but very sharp, which to be honest I like, as I can always add soft focus in post. I honestly, am trying to get the most bang for the buck as my budget isn't large at all, and I have some events coming up in the summer. I don't to be honest want to go with one of the "consumer" newer models because for example, they don't have focus and zoom rings, not to mention a Lanc jack that I know I can use my varizoom with that I have gotten accustomed to on the TRV.

To be honest, I am a bit confused by the negative reviews, but all of the video I have seen from clips looks good. Definately good enough once I think I tinker with the settings and learn shutter speed and aperture alot better, I think pulling good looking images will certainly be possible.

So any input or clips to show, would be most helpful and appreciated, along with any opinions on the subject. I have the computer ready alreay with capture card, just can't select camera... LOL

[Ken Hodson]

The Hd1 isn't a bad choice as I don't find the EE to be overly offensive. The Hd10 offers no additional features over the Hd1 except XLR audio inputs, but control wise they are exactly the same. Low light, such as often found with wedding shoots, are not ideal for this cam. The 35 lux rating (Japanese rating, not sure what the US rating is (8 lux?)) means that in not ideal lighting you will get lots of noise. ND filters are a necessity for bright shots. If you look at the chalk eating clip you will notice lots of blown out areas that the cam can't handle the range.

[Damon Gaskin]

Thanks Ken... I really do thank you for your input. This is becoming a difficult decision more and more by the moment. I wish there was a store near me that had the camera so I could play with it. And yes, I see what your saying about the blown out a bit on exposure if I am seeing what your saying on the childs face when he faces the camera towards the right. Hmmnnn, very difficult indeed, very difficult...

I don't do alot of weddings at all, but I know with my light meter here at home, I can pull a 35 lux(US) rating with only a 100 watt bulb for the most part(btw, I didn't know there were different lux/footcandle ratings in different regions of the world), so I am thinking I should be ok, but I really would like to play with the camera to be honest or any one before I plunk down the cash and have to deal with sending it back if I am not satisfied.. I really will have to think on it.

But filters(polarizers and ND), to be honest are a huge part of my little bag of tricks with the lowly TRV19 I have and being able to get nice little shots from it.

Hmmnnn, ok, let me quit my babbling, but thanks alot!!!

D

[Damon Gaskin]

Ken or anyone else, is it possible to post a wmv clip of low light? I am still teetering and because its an older camera and as you all stated, not alot of users are posting on this cam anymore. However, as I have watched, on B&H the reviews there are good, so I am just curious what low light video with this camera looks like. I know and have seen shutter speed corrected sports events with the camera and to be honest I like it. But I am just curious of how the low light truly looks... I can't seem to locate clips for the low light footage.. If anyone could help, I would be eternally grateful as this will determine my path of purchase...

Thank you all very much,

Damon

Update: OMG you have got to be kidding me! LOL I was mixing up two units! I did a quick google and for lux versus footcandle it stated that one footcandle is equal to 10.764 lux, so basically, I am wondering to be honest, a situation would have to be completely dark to not be able to register from my quick calculations a measly 3.25 footcandles. Maybe this is with shutter speed set high from the calculations, but from what I am seeing, per the link below to wilkpedia(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux), that will be easy to achieve. My light over the fisthtank produced a 25 footcandle reading a few feet away from it, and this room is extremely dark with only it running....

I think I am sold.....

[Ken Hodson]

Here is a link to a thread that had a link to some nice night footage.

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...ight=low+light

Unfortunately the clip has expired, but the thread may be of use. I also recommend using the search engine available on these forums. They are a great resource. Choose "search" then "advanced search" then select the HD1/HD10 forum, then enter your key words, "low light" ect.. Works great!

I would have no problem getting you a clip, but I no longer work for the company which I shot with the cam. If I come across some of my old footage that shows low light then I will let you know.

The cam does produce acceptable low light images, but they tend to produce a lot of chroma noise in the dark under lit areas. Use NO cam filters in low light situations. There are many VirtuaDub filters and other software, that specialize in noise cleanup, at the expense of some render time.

[Damon Gaskin]

Thanks for the reply Ken... And LOL its funny because that was the main therad I was looking at with the still image taken that actually doesn't look bad. That is what has prompted me to ask about a low light clip. If you can find one, that would be great! If not, I thank you for the effort anyhow.

And to be honest for filters, I was actually looking at some of the Cavision products such as their rail system and probably just as you suggested only use polarizer and ND filters. And definately turn the AGC off, and just play with the iris, shutter speed and exposure trying to learn the camera in fully manual mode from the start.

All color correction and the like I would do in Premiere. They have a nice shadow/highlight filter that works pretty good actually as your able to blend a percent of the original clip with the corrected clip, so I think that may help out a bit too. There is also if I remember a noise filter that I believe can be used... So I think this will be ok.. I am tinkering with the TRV19 a bit, which I know(pretty darn sure) will produce alot more noise that this cam, but I just want to play with th exposure a bit to get use to it in the dark.. I am thinking I will order it in probably 3 weeks or so barring jvc discontinuing the model(knock on wood!!) but they have a new animated presentation of it on their site, so I think I am pretty safe.. But I think I am going to go for it.

And he he I actually had to put in chroma noise to research what it actually is/was... LOL My knowledge on HDV and its formats has actually grown quite a bit due to the research and flip flopping back and forth on this purchase. I am therefore grateful for the experience.

Ok, heres my setup: I have picked out an external monitor/mini lcd for focusing accurately with the HDV(7" widescreen), as I said the rail system, the 3*3 matte box, an extra battery(as I have read the battery is long lasting on this corder), and about 10 tapes, all under 1950.00. Does that sound pretty good? It does to me, or do you think I will not need for example the matte box for filters and just purchase screw ons for the beginning and learning phase? That alone to be honest would save me a couple hundred, but I was thinking for the versatility, it probably would be worth it, but hadn't fully decided on that. I definately want to get the rail setup as not only does it look cool to me, and will look "techie" to the clients(he he he, gotta do something with it being a smaller camera), but I can add my shotgun mic via an accessory they sell on the rails and also, later do the matte box if I don't get it right away...

What do you think of the above? Sound good? Thanks,

D

[Ken Hodson]

We had a Cavision 3x3 matte-box on the rig I used. Because of the difficulty of manual control of the cam I used a variable ND filter setup, which consists of two polarizers. Search for older threads for indepth explanation. As you probably know you can't lock shutter and exposure at the same time. So having a variable ND allowed me use that to control exposure. One big helper I can offer you is that in manual mode you can cycle through your settings menu to see what your settings are such as shutter, F-stop, but if you stop one one setting too long it will engage and disengage what you had locked. So if you lock exposure then you can cycle through to see what your resulting settings are. But if you pause on shutter for eg. then it will jump out of exposure lock and now you are in manual shutter. Yes not ideal, and it took some time with this cam before I figured this out, but you can see what all your settings are and that is the point. Just don't pause to long. If you miss it just do another lap. Ha ha. In less then ample light don't use any filters as even a pola will drop you a stop. Try to search out some of my older posts on manual control using my name in this forum for more info. I have forgotten lots of tid-bits now that I no longer use the cam :>(
Also using AspectHD gave us access to super whites, giving about %15 more detail then what was available in a regular MT2.
Good luck.

[Damon Gaskin]

Hi Ken and thanks for the reply once again. I thought about it and I believe that I actually am going to purchase an FX7. I failed to mention that I have a partner and she isn't too techie and we both had the chance to play with an FX1 yesterday and she felt very comfortable with it. Not to mention I liked the layout of the controls and I don't believe that I will have to do any workarounds with the camera to get great video(I downloaded some clips from this site and was simply astonished by how it looks). So I really, really, really, wanted the HD1 but because of her and the amt that it would have cost for the rig of the rails, the monitor and other accessories, I think it was only like 500 or something, and then I figured that after that, I would have to create workarounds, on top of the low light and no gain control pretty much.

So I thank you eternally for your input, but I think I am going to have to bite the bullet on this one and just go back with Sony once more(I feel the chunks rising... LOL). He He He The other thing was that I would have had to order it without knowing how the controls were along with how the video looked compared to the sony first hand. And thats alot of cash IMHO on not being sure. I still am going to have to save a little longer due to the increased cost, but I think I will like and have more to tinker with and be able to learn a bit more..

Once again thanks... I will post on the other forum for the FX7, but do you have any experience with this cam?

D

[Ken Hodson]

You probably made the right choice. The HD1/10's are something I would recommend only to those who have the time and experience to do the work-arounds and the price was cheap.
I have no experience with the FX7. I believe it is just the consumer version of the V1, just minus some advanced settings, no progressive mode and no pro audio input. If its features and price suit your needs it should provide quite a nice picture.

[Dave Eaton]

Originally Posted by Chris Hurd

Thanks for the feedback -- maybe I won't archive this board after all. For a little while longer anyway.

Please, don't archive this board!

I'm a still shooter that's semi-new to video and have a Canon Optura 20 that I just dusted off. Decided I'd go deeper this time around and wanted something a bit bigger and more professional looking. Didn't make a lot of sense to me to buy another DV camera when HDVs are the same price or less. A friend (in another city) has a couple GR-HD1U's as C and D cameras (Z1U's for B cameras) to go with their other rigs -- they, also, have a couple original Opturas (they look like 35mm film cameras) that they use as well and like.

In talking with him on what I should look at he highly recommended the HD1 as he and his partner love theirs. So, I read all the reviews, did WAY too much research, and just, as in 30-minutes ago, ordered a GR-HD1U -- comes with the Master Works DVD now so I shouldn't have too many really dumb newbie questions. :-)

The downside to coming in so late to the dance is that most of the links referred to in the old messages are no longer working, but I'll survive. There's still a lot of excellent info here.

So, please, don't archive this board yet. I'm pleased to be a new member.

Now to decide on extended warranties...Mack (4 years for $100) or Satisfusion (3 years for $90).