New owner. which stabilizer? Filters? at DVinfo.net

Jaime Corretjer · April 9th, 2005, 07:36 PM

After a long awaited research period I decided to purchase the HD1. I immediately noticed it's much criticized handling when handheld. Although I will be shooting mostly surf from a tripod, I would like to consider a stabilizer.

I would like to know how you all feel about the following:
-Glidecam 2000
-steadicam jr
-Varizoom flowpod

Also, I immediately purchased a polarizer and it improved the image a lot. Would you pack a ND filter on top of the polarizer, if so what level?

It seem like shooting surf with this camera is going to be a challenge (30p is tougher than I thought). Im open for any suggestions and willing to post footage for discussion as soon as I start shooting. There are no waves here in Hawaii, can you believe that!

Bernard Ryan · April 12th, 2005, 04:37 AM

Haven't used any stabilizers but always use filters when i can. You should search previous threads for ND discussion. Most go with the more the better for ND filters, i use 2 x ND4 and a pola or enhancer to soften the video look as much as possible.

I also got a JVC tele adaptor GL-V1452U 1.4x but found it was way too short to shoot surf action. Still looking for a good option for long lens stuff.

The best fun i have is with the JVC underwater housing, it has limited controls but works great in the surf as a splash housing that goes underwater to 10m. You have no pro control on iris etc but it shoots great bits in between flares that are amazing.

read through the posts and you will get some great stuff..

bernie

Jim McDonald · May 6th, 2005, 01:49 PM

I have a GR-HD1, I use the ikelite u/w case ( great controls)
I use polarizing and ND filters in various combinations.
We can go from very harsh sunshine to grey overcast very quickly.
My shutter is at 1/30 usually to minimize blurring, but this can require 2 or 4 ND ( sometimes both) and a polarizer to keep light levels down.
As far as stabilizing, I shoot from a good bogen tripod with a fluid head on the beach, and the ikelite case I use from my jetski, out in the waves, and UW.
The counterweight for neutral bouyancy helps stabilize if on above water shots, and builds up muscles as well.( it's detachable ,for shooting in the surf,so if you loose the camera, at least it will be floating )
Another nice thing about the Ikelite case is that when shooting from my jetski, Wind noise is eliminated as the mike is inside the case. it records conversation wthout the whoosh. I've learned to be careful with my panning speed. and try not to zoom during a shot at surfers on waves, unless I'm willing to edit out a few frames.

Ken Hodson · May 9th, 2005, 11:31 PM

"My shutter is at 1/30 usually to minimize blurring"

I don't really understand what you are saying here? 1/30th will give you lots of blurring. Most of us strive for 1/60 (which is only possible if you lock the shutter at 1/60th) because 1/30th gives an exagerated film blur.

Jim McDonald · May 11th, 2005, 09:02 AM

I've found that locking at 1/30 and controlling my pan speed, I end up with a very film like look to the subject. I lead slightly ahead of my subject, and it creates a very color rich image. I'll try 1/60 and report the results in the future.

Ken Hodson · May 20th, 2005, 10:53 PM

For sure 1/30th will give you a very film like look. A soft motion blur to movement. 1/60th will give you a cleaner shot (less blur on movement), depends on what look your after.
Through my testing I have found that in the HD mode, given that you are not in massive light, the cam will always revert to 1/30th. No matter what. You can then simply lock the exposure at whatever you like. To get 1/60th you have to ND filter down to a level where the auto exposure will not change and lock the shutter at 1/60th. Could be easier but it works.

April 9th, 2005, 07:36 PM	#1
Jaime Corretjer New Boot Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Honolulu, Hi Posts: 17	New owner. which stabilizer? Filters? After a long awaited research period I decided to purchase the HD1. I immediately noticed it's much criticized handling when handheld. Although I will be shooting mostly surf from a tripod, I would like to consider a stabilizer. I would like to know how you all feel about the following: -Glidecam 2000 -steadicam jr -Varizoom flowpod Also, I immediately purchased a polarizer and it improved the image a lot. Would you pack a ND filter on top of the polarizer, if so what level? It seem like shooting surf with this camera is going to be a challenge (30p is tougher than I thought). Im open for any suggestions and willing to post footage for discussion as soon as I start shooting. There are no waves here in Hawaii, can you believe that!

April 12th, 2005, 04:37 AM	#2
Bernard Ryan New Boot Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Sydney Australia Posts: 21	Filters and stuff Haven't used any stabilizers but always use filters when i can. You should search previous threads for ND discussion. Most go with the more the better for ND filters, i use 2 x ND4 and a pola or enhancer to soften the video look as much as possible. I also got a JVC tele adaptor GL-V1452U 1.4x but found it was way too short to shoot surf action. Still looking for a good option for long lens stuff. The best fun i have is with the JVC underwater housing, it has limited controls but works great in the surf as a splash housing that goes underwater to 10m. You have no pro control on iris etc but it shoots great bits in between flares that are amazing. read through the posts and you will get some great stuff.. bernie __________________ Bernard Ryan Director Cyber City Films Sydney Australia

May 6th, 2005, 01:49 PM	#3
Jim McDonald New Boot Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Rockledge Florida USA Posts: 6	Shooting around water I have a GR-HD1, I use the ikelite u/w case ( great controls) I use polarizing and ND filters in various combinations. We can go from very harsh sunshine to grey overcast very quickly. My shutter is at 1/30 usually to minimize blurring, but this can require 2 or 4 ND ( sometimes both) and a polarizer to keep light levels down. As far as stabilizing, I shoot from a good bogen tripod with a fluid head on the beach, and the ikelite case I use from my jetski, out in the waves, and UW. The counterweight for neutral bouyancy helps stabilize if on above water shots, and builds up muscles as well.( it's detachable ,for shooting in the surf,so if you loose the camera, at least it will be floating ) Another nice thing about the Ikelite case is that when shooting from my jetski, Wind noise is eliminated as the mike is inside the case. it records conversation wthout the whoosh. I've learned to be careful with my panning speed. and try not to zoom during a shot at surfers on waves, unless I'm willing to edit out a few frames.

May 9th, 2005, 11:31 PM	#4
Ken Hodson Trustee Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vancouver BC Canada Posts: 1,315	"My shutter is at 1/30 usually to minimize blurring" I don't really understand what you are saying here? 1/30th will give you lots of blurring. Most of us strive for 1/60 (which is only possible if you lock the shutter at 1/60th) because 1/30th gives an exagerated film blur. __________________ Damnit Jim, I'm a film maker not a sysytems tech.

May 11th, 2005, 09:02 AM	#5
Jim McDonald New Boot Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Rockledge Florida USA Posts: 6	1/30 shutter speed I've found that locking at 1/30 and controlling my pan speed, I end up with a very film like look to the subject. I lead slightly ahead of my subject, and it creates a very color rich image. I'll try 1/60 and report the results in the future.

May 20th, 2005, 10:53 PM	#6
Ken Hodson Trustee Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vancouver BC Canada Posts: 1,315	For sure 1/30th will give you a very film like look. A soft motion blur to movement. 1/60th will give you a cleaner shot (less blur on movement), depends on what look your after. Through my testing I have found that in the HD mode, given that you are not in massive light, the cam will always revert to 1/30th. No matter what. You can then simply lock the exposure at whatever you like. To get 1/60th you have to ND filter down to a level where the auto exposure will not change and lock the shutter at 1/60th. Could be easier but it works. __________________ Damnit Jim, I'm a film maker not a sysytems tech.