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February 10th, 2004, 07:29 AM | #1 |
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Just got Underwater Housing
Just got the underwater housing for the HD1.. I live at bondi beach will post some fish video..
anyone else got a underwater housing ??
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Bernard Ryan Director Cyber City Films Sydney Australia |
February 10th, 2004, 07:55 AM | #2 |
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Just no Bondi cigars ay Bernard. They're the last thing you want to see in HiDef.
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February 10th, 2004, 12:19 PM | #3 |
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I have the Gates housing. My first trip with it will be end of this month. I've done pool tests with it.
Are you using the Gates housing or the Ikelite? If Gates, what are your port impressions? I've found the flat port to be too powerful for most macro. I'm intending to use the simple dome with diopter combinations with that. I wish the camera's lens, at 40-400, wasn't so long. I've had good success with the dome plus a +4 diopter and an additional +2 or +3 in the filter holder. |
February 10th, 2004, 01:53 PM | #4 |
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I've been waiting on some underwater footage to see how the HD10/HD1 performs underwater....
As much travel as I do in the Carribbean I'll be acquiring one as well. Actually forum member Jay Nemeth was supposedly going to post some of his footage a long while ago... His thread can be found here. Troy |
February 10th, 2004, 05:44 PM | #5 |
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JVC brand housing
I got the housing from japan, it is branded JVC HD 1. It has a flat port and power, zoom and snapshot controls. Testing it now before hitting the water. will post some stuff later but it's cloudy so it will look pretty dim. Hopefully the gods will give us some sun when we hit the water.
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Bernard Ryan Director Cyber City Films Sydney Australia |
February 16th, 2004, 11:30 PM | #6 |
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Exposure problems with underwater housing
HI, i have tried the housing which has only zoom, snapshot and power controls. First time, the power swicth only went to auto and i think because the housing was designed after the camera, the housing reflects back the light from inside the housing and it always overexposes. I have learned if it twist the switch further i can get it to manual. The only bummer is guessing the exposure out of the water as i can't change it in. I will take a underwater still camera to use as a underwater light meter and try again..
Hope to have something posted tomorrow.. any other tips ??
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Bernard Ryan Director Cyber City Films Sydney Australia |
February 17th, 2004, 10:05 AM | #7 |
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Do you have a filter in place? I've always understood that when shooting underwater you should use a color correcting filter (red?).
What about lighting? Troy |
February 17th, 2004, 03:24 PM | #8 |
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First, if you're new to shooting underwater then I'm afraid you've chosen a hard camera to learn on. Most UW videographers shoot in full auto anyway so the lack of manual controls is not such a hindrance, but the JVC is not known for it forgiving nature.
Second, you won't get very far underwater with a simple flat port. The JVC has a relatively long wide end (40mm equivalent) and the flat port provides a 4/3 magnification so you won't get very wide at all. Put a .5x adapter on it will help somewhat but you will have severe pincushion. You really need a dome or a true wetlens wide angle adapter. On the other hand what's bad for wide angle is good for macro. Trouble is that the lens is really too long on the long end and it's close focus is terrible. You will need to use roughly a +4 diopter to get within the right focusing range and then you'll find you have too much power at full telephoto. I plan to use a +4 with a dome and an optional diopter for my macro shooting. As far as lights and filters, you use one or the other but not both. Lights during daylight are of limited usefulness unless they are huge. I have written an article on underwater filter usage that may be helpful. It is targeted at still photographers but there is nothing in it that is still or video centric. My knowledge of filters comes from my video experience, not still. Finally, for best results you need to know how to do manual white balancing. Unfortunately your housing doesn't allow that and without it you color will suffer greatly. As I said, you've chosen a camera that has some significant limitations to learn on. If you want to play with it underwater that's fine, but to use it seriously you will need a housing with a more complete set of controls and a better optical solution than you have. I would recommend you become aquiainted with underwater photography forums if you want further advise on underwater usage. My favorite is Wetpixel but there are others. There are no currently active underwater video specialty sites that I personally recommend, and I ordinarily don't recommend one forum on another, but the goals of this forum and wetpixel are entirely different and its members are, too. Shooting video underwater is entirely different than what many people do here. |
February 17th, 2004, 05:51 PM | #9 |
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Success Underwater
Thanks for the post, I actually got it to work yesterday. I make international commercials and always shoot 35mm film, I used the same technique that we use with film cameras. I set the exposure and did the video white balance thing out of the water. Downstairs i turn the camera on to manual and it goes back to last settings, Perfect.
The flat port is an issue with minimum focus distance, a guy in australia makes the film housings for arri, panavision. Will call him and see if he can modify mine. you are right diopters are the answer. Colour filters are a bit old school as everyone now digitally colour corrects (telecine or computer) so it is better to burn a stronger image onto film/tape and then remove the water colour distortion later. I will post some clips on my website this arvo about 4 sydney time.. www.cybercityfilms.com go to client rooom and type JVC as password. p.s the swell was over six feet yesterday so visibilty was reduced by all the bubbles in the water.
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Bernard Ryan Director Cyber City Films Sydney Australia |
February 17th, 2004, 11:26 PM | #10 |
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Color filters are not old school. It is best to color balance as best you can before the light enters the lens since video cameras, especially consumer ones, have limited dynamic range and you will end up saturating your green channel before you get any red detail at all. Then what are you going to do, add red gain to a black channel in post? I promise you that you cannot get correct white balance below 30 feet/10 meters without a filter with this camera and it's impossible to preset white balance correctly before you enter. I've done the white balance range tests. Remember that, underwater, the filter removes the light you don't want. Without it, the light the creates the "stronger image" in fact dictates and exposure level that precludes recording any color detail.
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