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May 26th, 2008, 05:42 PM | #1 |
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Location: Payson, Utah
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My vimeo page
Well I've finally got a few vids up on the old vimeo page. Trying to learn how to get good DOF shots. Harder than it looks. I wouldn't mind some constructive critiqe. My workflow from the HD7 is- copy files from the camera, change the tod to m2t and import into Avid Liquid. I have been using an HDV timeline mostly because I didn't think there would be that much difference in 1920 and 1440 and my second camera we use is a GL2 so then I have to use an SD 16:9 timeline and they play together nicely. But my next video will be FHD @ 1920.
Give a look and let me know but be gentle I am just feeling out this new camera. http://www.vimeo.com/1070213 http://www.vimeo.com/969595 |
May 27th, 2008, 05:46 PM | #2 |
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That is a beautiful shot of a beautiful couple. Nicely done.
You should look far a sales job with JVC ... you just finally sold me on the HD7. |
May 29th, 2008, 04:16 PM | #3 |
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Thanks
O wow thanks, yeah I'm really getting to like this little camera. Things I'v e found out are it's really easy to overexpose outside when your running manual, and I'm doing that a lot just to learn. Also HD is not very forgiving on focus, if your out the tiniest bit it shows right up. Very glad I have Steve's excellent book, it really helped me get up to speed fast.
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May 29th, 2008, 04:30 PM | #4 |
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Are you using the zebra pattern for setting your exposure?
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May 30th, 2008, 04:19 PM | #5 |
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Very nice work !! I love my HD7. Keep up the work
Len |
June 5th, 2008, 05:05 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
I'm using Final Cut, but I suspect the workflow is basically the same.
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June 5th, 2008, 06:05 PM | #7 |
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Liquid doesn't care what the source is, you can use all sorts of different footage and it will render it to the timeline's specs. I just set up an NTSC 16:9 timeline and make sure the GL1 is shooting widescreen. Kinda sucks everything looks "squished" while your shooting. Then on my HD footage I just have to set the property to "Fit largest keep aspect" and it scales it down to SD as I go. Just have to do a little color correction here and there to get both cameras to match.
And no I haven't used the zebra function yet for exposure which is quite stupid of me, thanks for the tip. |
June 6th, 2008, 09:36 PM | #8 | |
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I used to despise zebras, but that was because I didn't really understand how to use them effectively. Zebras react when any part of an image is beyond 100% white. Some cameras allow adjusting zebra to as low as, I think, 70%. Superwhite is 110%, but essentially a useless measurement for video, unless your only objective is viewing on a computer. My experience suggests 100% is a good choice, provided the quantity of zebra is kept to a minimum in the viewfinder. If one can see texture in white, which means something less than 100% in most of the image, then exposure settings will be usable in post production,
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June 7th, 2008, 07:09 PM | #9 |
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I was only asking for the Zebra, because I wonder when white starts blowing out, and if the zebra is an appropr ... abropr ... aprobri .... ehm if it helps to prevent blow outs.... I wish I had soething like that in my still camera...
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June 7th, 2008, 07:16 PM | #10 | |
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Kaushik |
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June 8th, 2008, 01:43 AM | #11 |
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I read somewhere, a long time ago, that one way to get used to the zebra is to put the camera in auto for a while as a test and watch what the zebra does. Then change to manual and start shooting.
Seemed like good advice.
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June 8th, 2008, 09:31 PM | #12 | |
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The eye is always drawn into the brightest part of a picture, shadows go mostly disregarded (if you don't under expose too much). |
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