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Old June 19th, 2007, 09:32 AM   #31
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[QUOTE=Jasper Blunk;698676]Chris,

"I may use a certain style of putting "intense" music in non-action-oriented scenes and putting "calm" music in intense/action-oriented scenes. A interesting concept–and I'm not sure if it has ever been used before!" --

Contrast is an interesting and used aesthetic in Art.
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Old June 19th, 2007, 10:22 AM   #32
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I have a Forbin KL-6 "A" - the early version, without the cupholder. Don't waste your money on it. Wait for the "C" version - it's supposed to have the "Auto Acting" button, that makes your actors remember their lines.
I have a B model and I once put in a tape backwards... the video came out upside down (I was able to fix in post no problem) but the audio came translated to English... I filmed a Hungarian performance... This is what you get if you buy the best!
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Old June 19th, 2007, 12:02 PM   #33
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Hi Joey -

Not to add to your confusion, but take a look at the HC7 too - better picture quality than the HC3, still small size to drag around for the kid's stuff, only slightly more the the HV20, only thing you really give up is the 24P, and I think the general conclusion is the build quality of the HC7 is better.

Here's my take - with your description of how you're going to use the cam, the HC7 will probably do the trick, sell the HC3 unless you need a second angle or backup cam. The FX7 might well be overkill unless you're getting paid to shoot - sure, bells and whistles, but... there's that college fund! With the HC7 you should still be close to on budget if you want to fiddle with adapters.

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Old June 19th, 2007, 01:27 PM   #34
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Thanks Mark,

I think I will take your advice, I was considering the JVC I think mainly for the professional "image" of a shoulder mount camera. However the Canon seems to be more versatile for the average videographer...plus that leaves me more money for a steadicam merlin, lights, mics etc. which will improve my overall service.

Gary
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Old June 19th, 2007, 03:18 PM   #35
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Maybe a 7" hi res monitor to go with the Canon XH-A1... Its LCD is not considered as best for sharp focusing.
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Old June 19th, 2007, 03:52 PM   #36
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Maybe a 7" hi res monitor to go with the Canon XH-A1... Its LCD is not considered as best for sharp focusing.
I'll second these recomendations.. Go with the A1 and then by the larger LCD. I own two HDR-FX1's and what benefit it has over the A1 is the fact the LCD screens are better and larger.

Jon
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Old June 19th, 2007, 07:14 PM   #37
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Ah, excellent. I just went down to my local shop today and they have them on sale for 3500. The salesman said that since I will be needing accessories, audio, lights, etc, he should be able to close to the BHphoto price on a package deal..

Where would I get the 7'' monitor? I found one at dvcreators (a marshall V-r70p-hda) , but it is almost $1400! Are there LCD's for less? Are they worth the upgrade?

Any other accessory recommendations off hand? So far the guy at the shop recommended a glidecam rig with harness (1200), an on camera 20W paglight, a rode mic, and wide angle lens...

Thanks,

Gary
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Old June 19th, 2007, 08:32 PM   #38
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I was looking at the JVC HD-GY110U, canon XH-A1, etc..
If looking "pro" will help get you more work, and charge more, then get the HD110. If you aren't used to a camera with "pro ergonomics" or need to shoot stealthly ever, then get the XHA1.
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Old June 20th, 2007, 03:31 AM   #39
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Since you're in the states Gary, don't forget to get the $250 rebate (if you purchase before 30th of June). The external monitors are expensive (i gather the Marshall HD ones are the pick of the bunch though). You might want to consider something like the Hoodman H-300 for the time being, it has a 2x magnifier that will make the Canon's lcd easier to use.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

And I definitely agree that getting the XHA1 with a glidecam is a better way to go than getting the JVC and using it shoulder mounted - it'll give you more options with your filming. You'll want to be quick though if you want that rebate, only 10 days left.
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Old June 21st, 2007, 07:18 AM   #40
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I find it interesting that the XH/A1 forum consistently has about twice as many people signed on as the Sony V1/FX7 forum. I suspect that this mirrors the two cameras' relative popularity, although it could just be that there are more Canon users on this particular site.
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Old June 21st, 2007, 08:01 AM   #41
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There are more Canon users on this particular site. It's not an accurate mirror of their relative popularity.
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Old June 21st, 2007, 08:22 AM   #42
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I've noticed that Canon video camera's in local stores more.... Sony must be a pain to resell for. Here in Louisville you will not find a Z1/FX1 or V1/FX7. But the only camera store ( Murphy's ) has Canon A1's and XLS's.
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Old June 23rd, 2007, 02:38 PM   #43
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I picked up the XH-A1 yesterday! Thanks for the help!

Now I just have to learn how to really use it!

Gary
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Old June 26th, 2007, 06:24 AM   #44
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Best HD Camera out there?!

Hey people

Im really in a bind here, i want a HD camera, and ive considered so many differnet ones, like the GY-HD range and the Z1E even the RED camera, im willing to spend quite alot really, im from UK, so most id spend is 7-8k so i think thats like $16k, but anyway, im a editor by trade so want the best image that can be edited in Final Cut. Any help would be awesome!
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Old June 26th, 2007, 11:54 AM   #45
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The XL H1 is the best in its price class

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Heru View Post
I want a HD camera. I've considered many different ones, like the GY-HD range, the Z1E, and even the RED camera. The most I'd spend is about $16k.
[Edited for grammar, spelling, and brevity.]

The RED camera will be the best option when it comes out. Until then, for the best HD image under $16k, get the XL H1 and a lossless SDI recorder. The image beats everything else in its price class except in chromatic abberation and moire, which can both be controlled if you can manipulate the environment.

If you'll be in the studio most of the time, you can build your own SDI recorder for $2k. For thin depth of field and excellent background blur, get the 85mm f/1.2 (only if you have a *lot* of working distance).
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