Dolly Question at DVinfo.net

Rick Pearson · March 9th, 2005, 03:54 PM

I've made a 2' x 2' dolly using metal corner braces and 2 skateboard wheels for the wheel trucks, but I'm now looking to build a larger dolly that will comfortably accomodate an operator and camera and I would like to use 8 wheels per truck (4 on each side). To do this would require the use of angle iron, but I've seen this stuff and can't imagine trying to cut it down to the length of a truck with a hand saw, or any other tool in my garage. I can't imagine drilling through it either.

Has anyone done this before? I'm just looking for people's past experiences, not speculations on how it might be done. Thanks in advance.

Rick Pearson,
Producer/Director
Next Level Media Productions
http://www.nextlevelmediaproductions.com

Mikko Wilson · March 9th, 2005, 05:16 PM

I used aluminum for mine, and cut it with a (short!) hand hacksaw.
took a while, and once i was close i just bent it and broke off hte last bit. but it worked.

- I also used some flat thick Iorn - that took bloody ages to cut with a handsaw. - but actually drilled through with a (mains powered (cabled)) hand drill really easily with a steel bit.

Good luck, and happy cutting!

- Mikko

Arthur Babcock · March 9th, 2005, 05:59 PM

Rick,

I'm not sure what your design is, but I used 2' x 4' plywood for a platform, with mild steel angle from the hardware store to carry the wheels. The steel is about 1/8" thick, and isn't all that hard to work--I cut it to length with a hacksaw, and while I used a drill press to drill mounting holes in the steel, I think I could have done it with an electric drill if necessary.

I based my design on John Hudson's--he posted links here to some videos he made of and with his dolly, and they're quite useful.

Good luck.

--Arthur

Aaron Koolen · March 9th, 2005, 07:27 PM

I just got a metal angle brace from the hardware store and it's worked a treat. My dolly is about 1.3m x 1.3m and can hold camera and person. As long as I had a bolt the right length, it holds everything in place fine.

Aaron

Ryan Graham · March 10th, 2005, 09:23 AM

We used angle iron, and were able to cut through it with an angle grinder. Drilling holes took a while, but with decent drill bits, lots of oil, and some patience, it was fine.

A tip: use one of those small/portable bed frames for your angle iron. They're cheap, and one of the sides might already be the length you're looking for.

Ryan

Dan Selakovich · March 10th, 2005, 10:35 AM

>>I've made a 2' x 2' dolly using metal corner braces and 2 skateboard wheels for the wheel trucks, but I'm now looking to build a larger dolly that will comfortably accomodate an operator and camera and I would like to use 8 wheels per truck (4 on each side). To do this would require the use of angle iron, but I've seen this stuff and can't imagine trying to cut it down to the length of a truck with a hand saw, or any other tool in my garage. I can't imagine drilling through it either.

Hi Rick,

You can use the same corner braces that you used on the 2x2 dolly on a larger platform. You just need to strengthen the underside of the dolly: get 2 lengths of 'L' shaped aluminum or steel the same length as the platform going the long way. Get a bunch of wood screws that are a bit longer than 3/4". Drill holes in one side of the 'L' of the angle iron or aluminum about every 4" along the length of the 'L' big enough to allow the screws to go through them. Attach the angle steel along the bottom of the dolly platform about 4-6 inches in from the long edge of the platform. Take the second angle and do the same on the other side. This will make it plenty strong enough to stand on.

As for cutting and drilling steel: get a new hacksaw blade and start cutting. It's not difficult. When you drill into any metal, get a thing called a Prick Punch. It's like a chisel, but comes to a point at the end. Find where you want to drill the hole, set the point of the punch and give it a good whack or two with a hammer. This will make a dimple to set the drill bit point in to. This will keep your bit from walking. Use some stuff called "drilling oil" and pour a bit into the dimple and start drilling. As soon as the oil dries up, put more in. You basically want to keep the drill bit wet. In aluminum, this will go quickly. In steel, you'll probably have to add the oil a few times before you make it through the steel.

Good luck!

Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com

David Mesloh · March 14th, 2005, 01:11 AM

Ok all you home shop guys. Notes from a machinist on cutting and drilling steel.

First all tools are available at Home Depot or the local hardware store.

Cutting- Hacksaw with a Fine tooth blade (18, 22, 30) teeth per inch. The harder the material the more teeth per inch you want. Make sure the teeth are facing forward. Hacksaws cut on the push stroke, not the pull stroke. Make sure the blade is under tension in the handle. You can adjust this and the blade shouldn't be too loose. Use a sulpher based cutting oil. You can use "tapping oil" for steel if that is all you can find. Put the angle iron in a vise and clamp it down. Then clamp the vise to the bench top. Put most of your pressure on the push stroke. release pressure when you pull back, the saw isn't cutting then.

Drilling - Best option is a drill press.CLAMP THE PART!!!!!! Keep the speed around 80 rpm or less.
In steel, slower is better. If you have to use a hand drill, do this. CLAMP THE PART!!!! Scribe or draw an "X" where you want the hole. If you have a center punch, tap the intersection of the lines with it and make a detent in the steel. If the final hole you want to drill is say...3/8" in diameter, start with a 1/8" drill bit and drill a hole. Then use a 1/4" bit to enlarge the hole. Finish with a 3/8" drill bit. Remember!!!! slower is better in harder materials as well as when the bits get larger in diameter. Don't push too hard on the drill. Let the bit do the cutting. A good style of bit is a standard "Jobber" bit. It is a 118 degree bit. materials are HSS (High speed Steel), Cobalt, TIN Coated (Titanium Nitride - the gold colored bits) or Solid Carbide bits. I recommend either the Cobalt or the TIN Bits. TIN lasts longer.

Any Questions.... Buy the Machinists Handbook at your local book store or library. Ton's of great info.

BTW......... CLAMP YOUR PARTS. Otherwise they turn into little helicopters as they sail across your garage and they WILL impale your kid......who was watching over your shoulder...... to the wall.

Good Luck.

Dan Selakovich · March 14th, 2005, 08:03 AM

Heed David's words! Especially the Helicopter part!

Oh, one more thing: if the drill bit does get stuck, don't put it back in the hole, then start the bit moving. It will just get stuck again. Start the bit moving above the hole, then lower it in slowly.

Also, if you are going to be drilling a lot of metal, a drill doctor for sharpening bits is a good investment. It'll save you a fortune in the long run!

Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com

Rick Pearson · March 16th, 2005, 03:25 PM

URL: http://nextlevelmediaproductions.com...southmetro.wmv

This is a spot I shot the other day using my dolly for the second half of the spot.

Daniel Stone · March 16th, 2005, 10:36 PM

I just made a dolly using 2 hand-trucks from Lowe's. It has a seat, handle, wheels that don't need a track, a monitor mount and an arm that extends from 2 ft up to 7 ft. Oh, and I made it for less than $200.

When one person sits and another pushes, you get the most beautiful, smooth shots ... and you can jib up and down while you're rolling. It's hard to use by yourself, though, because it has rubber wheels that bounce - it needs the weight of someone to roll smoothly.

Nobody believes that I built it - it looks just like something you'd see a real film crew using. I'll try to figure out how to post pictures on here.

Jim Parks · March 17th, 2005, 07:24 PM

Yes, Daniel. I'd like to see that! Thanks for sharing!

Jim

Rob Lohman · March 19th, 2005, 06:30 AM

Daniel: you can't attach pictures to this forum. So you need to
host them on a website and link to them. If you can't get that
done, e-mail me a couple of pictures and I'll put them up on my
site.

Can you tell us a bit more about how you made the arm on the
dolly and so forth?

Dan Selakovich · March 19th, 2005, 09:18 AM

You guys might want to take a look at this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37320

dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com

Jim Parks · March 19th, 2005, 09:42 AM

Good morning, Dan! What a strange coincidence!!!

I just ordered your book 15 minutes ago, and I'm just about to leave for Harbor Freight to look at drill presses.

Hope you see this today. Read my comment/question on my order!

Jim

Dan Selakovich · March 19th, 2005, 10:15 AM

Hi Jim,

You know, a drill press will make things easier, but not necessary! The drill guide will come in handy though!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41166

Also, if you get the drill press, get a drill press vise to go with it.

Thanks for ordering a 2nd book! I get so many people ordering other copies for friends.

Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com

March 9th, 2005, 03:54 PM	#1
Rick Pearson Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 55	Dolly Question I've made a 2' x 2' dolly using metal corner braces and 2 skateboard wheels for the wheel trucks, but I'm now looking to build a larger dolly that will comfortably accomodate an operator and camera and I would like to use 8 wheels per truck (4 on each side). To do this would require the use of angle iron, but I've seen this stuff and can't imagine trying to cut it down to the length of a truck with a hand saw, or any other tool in my garage. I can't imagine drilling through it either. Has anyone done this before? I'm just looking for people's past experiences, not speculations on how it might be done. Thanks in advance. Rick Pearson, Producer/Director Next Level Media Productions http://www.nextlevelmediaproductions.com __________________ Rick Pearson, http://www.nextlevelmediaproductions.com

March 9th, 2005, 05:16 PM	#2
Mikko Wilson Major Player Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Juneau, Alaska, USA Posts: 624	I used aluminum for mine, and cut it with a (short!) hand hacksaw. took a while, and once i was close i just bent it and broke off hte last bit. but it worked. - I also used some flat thick Iorn - that took bloody ages to cut with a handsaw. - but actually drilled through with a (mains powered (cabled)) hand drill really easily with a steel bit. Good luck, and happy cutting! - Mikko __________________ Mikko Wilson - Steadicam Owner / Operator - Juneau, Alaska, USA +1 (907) 321-8387 - mikkowilson@hotmail.com - www.mikkowilson.com

March 9th, 2005, 07:27 PM	#4
Aaron Koolen Trustee Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posts: 1,727	I just got a metal angle brace from the hardware store and it's worked a treat. My dolly is about 1.3m x 1.3m and can hold camera and person. As long as I had a bolt the right length, it holds everything in place fine. Aaron __________________ My Website Meat Free Media

March 14th, 2005, 01:11 AM	#7
David Mesloh Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 94	cutting and drilling info Ok all you home shop guys. Notes from a machinist on cutting and drilling steel. First all tools are available at Home Depot or the local hardware store. Cutting- Hacksaw with a Fine tooth blade (18, 22, 30) teeth per inch. The harder the material the more teeth per inch you want. Make sure the teeth are facing forward. Hacksaws cut on the push stroke, not the pull stroke. Make sure the blade is under tension in the handle. You can adjust this and the blade shouldn't be too loose. Use a sulpher based cutting oil. You can use "tapping oil" for steel if that is all you can find. Put the angle iron in a vise and clamp it down. Then clamp the vise to the bench top. Put most of your pressure on the push stroke. release pressure when you pull back, the saw isn't cutting then. Drilling - Best option is a drill press.CLAMP THE PART!!!!!! Keep the speed around 80 rpm or less. In steel, slower is better. If you have to use a hand drill, do this. CLAMP THE PART!!!! Scribe or draw an "X" where you want the hole. If you have a center punch, tap the intersection of the lines with it and make a detent in the steel. If the final hole you want to drill is say...3/8" in diameter, start with a 1/8" drill bit and drill a hole. Then use a 1/4" bit to enlarge the hole. Finish with a 3/8" drill bit. Remember!!!! slower is better in harder materials as well as when the bits get larger in diameter. Don't push too hard on the drill. Let the bit do the cutting. A good style of bit is a standard "Jobber" bit. It is a 118 degree bit. materials are HSS (High speed Steel), Cobalt, TIN Coated (Titanium Nitride - the gold colored bits) or Solid Carbide bits. I recommend either the Cobalt or the TIN Bits. TIN lasts longer. Any Questions.... Buy the Machinists Handbook at your local book store or library. Ton's of great info. BTW......... CLAMP YOUR PARTS. Otherwise they turn into little helicopters as they sail across your garage and they WILL impale your kid......who was watching over your shoulder...... to the wall. Good Luck.

March 16th, 2005, 03:25 PM	#9
Rick Pearson Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 55	Examples of Dolly shots URL: http://nextlevelmediaproductions.com...southmetro.wmv This is a spot I shot the other day using my dolly for the second half of the spot. __________________ Rick Pearson, http://www.nextlevelmediaproductions.com

March 9th, 2005, 05:59 PM	#3
Arthur Babcock New Boot Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Carmel Valley, California Posts: 14	Rick, I'm not sure what your design is, but I used 2' x 4' plywood for a platform, with mild steel angle from the hardware store to carry the wheels. The steel is about 1/8" thick, and isn't all that hard to work--I cut it to length with a hacksaw, and while I used a drill press to drill mounting holes in the steel, I think I could have done it with an electric drill if necessary. I based my design on John Hudson's--he posted links here to some videos he made of and with his dolly, and they're quite useful. Good luck. --Arthur

March 10th, 2005, 09:23 AM	#5
Ryan Graham Regular Crew Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 81	We used angle iron, and were able to cut through it with an angle grinder. Drilling holes took a while, but with decent drill bits, lots of oil, and some patience, it was fine. A tip: use one of those small/portable bed frames for your angle iron. They're cheap, and one of the sides might already be the length you're looking for. Ryan

March 10th, 2005, 10:35 AM	#6
Dan Selakovich Major Player Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 220	>>I've made a 2' x 2' dolly using metal corner braces and 2 skateboard wheels for the wheel trucks, but I'm now looking to build a larger dolly that will comfortably accomodate an operator and camera and I would like to use 8 wheels per truck (4 on each side). To do this would require the use of angle iron, but I've seen this stuff and can't imagine trying to cut it down to the length of a truck with a hand saw, or any other tool in my garage. I can't imagine drilling through it either. Hi Rick, You can use the same corner braces that you used on the 2x2 dolly on a larger platform. You just need to strengthen the underside of the dolly: get 2 lengths of 'L' shaped aluminum or steel the same length as the platform going the long way. Get a bunch of wood screws that are a bit longer than 3/4". Drill holes in one side of the 'L' of the angle iron or aluminum about every 4" along the length of the 'L' big enough to allow the screws to go through them. Attach the angle steel along the bottom of the dolly platform about 4-6 inches in from the long edge of the platform. Take the second angle and do the same on the other side. This will make it plenty strong enough to stand on. As for cutting and drilling steel: get a new hacksaw blade and start cutting. It's not difficult. When you drill into any metal, get a thing called a Prick Punch. It's like a chisel, but comes to a point at the end. Find where you want to drill the hole, set the point of the punch and give it a good whack or two with a hammer. This will make a dimple to set the drill bit point in to. This will keep your bit from walking. Use some stuff called "drilling oil" and pour a bit into the dimple and start drilling. As soon as the oil dries up, put more in. You basically want to keep the drill bit wet. In aluminum, this will go quickly. In steel, you'll probably have to add the oil a few times before you make it through the steel. Good luck! Dan www.DVcameraRigs.com

March 14th, 2005, 08:03 AM	#8
Dan Selakovich Major Player Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 220	Heed David's words! Especially the Helicopter part! Oh, one more thing: if the drill bit does get stuck, don't put it back in the hole, then start the bit moving. It will just get stuck again. Start the bit moving above the hole, then lower it in slowly. Also, if you are going to be drilling a lot of metal, a drill doctor for sharpening bits is a good investment. It'll save you a fortune in the long run! Dan www.DVcameraRigs.com

March 16th, 2005, 10:36 PM	#10
Daniel Stone Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Washington, DC Posts: 84	I just made a dolly using 2 hand-trucks from Lowe's. It has a seat, handle, wheels that don't need a track, a monitor mount and an arm that extends from 2 ft up to 7 ft. Oh, and I made it for less than $200. When one person sits and another pushes, you get the most beautiful, smooth shots ... and you can jib up and down while you're rolling. It's hard to use by yourself, though, because it has rubber wheels that bounce - it needs the weight of someone to roll smoothly. Nobody believes that I built it - it looks just like something you'd see a real film crew using. I'll try to figure out how to post pictures on here.

March 17th, 2005, 07:24 PM	#11
Jim Parks New Boot Join Date: May 2003 Location: Rogers, Arkansas Posts: 8	Regarding your Lowe's Dolly Yes, Daniel. I'd like to see that! Thanks for sharing! Jim

March 19th, 2005, 06:30 AM	#12
Rob Lohman RED Code Chef Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Holland Posts: 12,514	Daniel: you can't attach pictures to this forum. So you need to host them on a website and link to them. If you can't get that done, e-mail me a couple of pictures and I'll put them up on my site. Can you tell us a bit more about how you made the arm on the dolly and so forth? __________________ Rob Lohman, visuar@iname.com DV Info Wrangler & RED Code Chef Join the DV Challenge \| Lady X Search DVinfo.net for quick answers \| Buy from the best: DVinfo.net sponsors

March 19th, 2005, 09:18 AM	#13
Dan Selakovich Major Player Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 220	You guys might want to take a look at this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37320 dan www.DVcameraRigs.com

March 19th, 2005, 09:42 AM	#14
Jim Parks New Boot Join Date: May 2003 Location: Rogers, Arkansas Posts: 8	Re: Harbor Freight Good morning, Dan! What a strange coincidence!!! I just ordered your book 15 minutes ago, and I'm just about to leave for Harbor Freight to look at drill presses. Hope you see this today. Read my comment/question on my order! Jim

March 19th, 2005, 10:15 AM	#15
Dan Selakovich Major Player Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 220	Hi Jim, You know, a drill press will make things easier, but not necessary! The drill guide will come in handy though! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41166 Also, if you get the drill press, get a drill press vise to go with it. Thanks for ordering a 2nd book! I get so many people ordering other copies for friends. Dan www.DVcameraRigs.com