Monitor mounting solutions?

[Paul Gale]

I see there are a few negative reviews of the cinelock on bhphoto - relating to the very thing I'm looking to stop happening - monitor rotating on the thread of whatever device it's attached to. How hard can it be to design something good? Maybe I need to do this myself.

There always seems to be a fundamental flaw in all of these mounting solutions - no 100% rock steady locking. They're all based on a single bolt into the device and no matter how tightly or how many washers etc are used - it can still come undone.

I think the main problem for me is using the end of the Noga with the thread and thumb wheel 'locking' mechanism - although the thumb wheel tightens to the device (O7Q in this case), the main bolt/thread of the Noga arm can still easily unscrew through both the O7Q and the thumb wheel. Does that make sense? It seems a less than satisfactory design :(

[Dave Allen]

I agree.

I guess there had to be some really good reason why CD put the threaded hole on the rear instead of the customary bottom.

With a mounting hole on the bottom, the worst that could happen is the monitor would rotate on a vertical axis, which is not all that bad. With a lower rear threaded hole, the whole monitor can fall completely off to the side and smack into thing and possible yank on the cable connectors.

I hear CD did put an indexing unthreaded female hole spaced to Arri specs above the threaded mounting hole. This would stop a rotational flop to the left or right downwards, but that is providing anyone actually made anything that took advantage of it, and apparently nobody does. That needs to change.

I am not sure if Olaf's small right angle bracket indexes into that locating hole, nor do I know yet if my Sony battery plate supplied by CD will interfere with that angle adapter, but this whole mounting arm issue seems to be a mess and really needs a resolution.

My Ikan D7w monitor has a stamped sheet steel metal female threaded port reinforcement on it, The Odyssey has an aluminum female thread which will not hold up as well to abuse form a steel threaded post inserted into it.

I couldn't design electronics for the life of me, but it's $3 for a small stainless steel heli-coil insert. I would have drilled a larger hole in the Odyssey housing and then brought it back down to nominal threaded mounting hole size via a stainless steel heli-coil insert. It takes less than 5 minutes total of manufacturing time to put in a heli-coil. All this would make that crucial threaded fixing hole much less prone to wear.

[Paul Gale]

If someone just made a similar arm to the one sony makes that I keep on going on about, that would be perfect.

Olof's bracket looks ok, although a little 'industrial' but it still doesn't give that absolutely secure mounting that I'm looking for.

Maybe I have to pick the best of the bunch and use some locktite to permanently mount the arm to whatever bracket.

[Brian T. Young]

Originally Posted by Paul Gale

I see there are a few negative reviews of the cinelock on bhphoto - relating to the very thing I'm looking to stop happening - monitor rotating on the thread of whatever device it's attached to. How hard can it be to design something good? Maybe I need to do this myself.

There always seems to be a fundamental flaw in all of these mounting solutions - no 100% rock steady locking. They're all based on a single bolt into the device and no matter how tightly or how many washers etc are used - it can still come undone.

I think the main problem for me is using the end of the Noga with the thread and thumb wheel 'locking' mechanism - although the thumb wheel tightens to the device (O7Q in this case), the main bolt/thread of the Noga arm can still easily unscrew through both the O7Q and the thumb wheel. Does that make sense? It seems a less than satisfactory design :(

a little drop of Loctite solves a lot of woes.
(get the Blue...not the Red)

[Paul Gale]

yeah true. And gaffa tape!

[Paul Gale]

Very interesting discussion on Twitter - Solid Camera are just machining some kind of O7Q support system - they wouldn't say much but will have pics late next week. This is what they said:

https://twitter.com/mysolidcamera/st...32620791386112

[Brian T. Young]

Carlos makes some great stuff over at Solid Camera. Keep your eye on him - he's gearing up for NAB.

[Dave Allen]

Olaf, does your small right angle Odyssey bracket have an indexing pin that indexes into the Arri spaced hole to keep it all from rotating?

Pics of the backside? Will I be able to check one of these out and obtain it if needed at NAB?

[Paul Gale]

I don't think a picture of Olof's backside is appropriate! Lol

I think he said elsewhere that it does have the locating pin though and then means the Noga would mount underneath the monitor, helping the situation a bit but it can still rotate on the vertical axis given a knock or enough force.

[Olof Ekbergh]

Here are photos of just the simple bracket showing how the "Rubberized" back works.

It really conforms to the Odyssey so it does not turn. I use a similar approach on my larger bracket as well. No complaints so far, and I have never had these parts rotate myself.

I can add the pin if you like but it really is not necessary. One nice thing about this system is it does not remove the anodization on the Odyssey or my bracket, with repeated use, metal to metal tends to chip the finish...

The 2 lower 4mm holes are for the protective bar, an option protecting cables and connectors especially the Nano power connector.

[Dave Allen]

Olaf, will your right angle bracket interfere with the single horizontal battery plate system sold by C.D.?

Will you have any of these at NAB?

The rubber strip is a nice touch.

[Olof Ekbergh]

Dave, I will not be at NAB. I have a 3 week shoot in April in the GA and MO. There will be some of my stuff in the CD booth. As you may know I am primarily a shooter and run production company, the gear production is an outgrowth of what I make for myself. But I must say the gear production is starting to take over a bit. As I get older I must say I enjoy staying here in the valley working for local clients and making parts in my wood and metal shop more than insane travel schedules.

I do supply the bracket with an allen screw and wrench, as well as the large thumb screw, this will fit under the CD bracket as well. I think even the thumb screw fits as well. I have not had a CD battery plate in the shop yet. They are on backorder. I have 2 battery plate solutions as you may know they can be ordered with every battery plate I have, AB Gold Mounts, IDX/Sony V-mounts, Sony L, and Canon batteries.

[Dave Allen]

I am sure the rubber keeps it from rotating, I just like the idea of an added indexing pin.

At NAB I am trying to figure out of the Tilta external EVF monitor arm can be adapted to your right angle bracket. Also, my Movcam cage has two upper forward facing holes for short upper rods that perhaps something can be attached to that with a horizontal perpendicular arm to attach to your bracket.

Like these:

http://www.urbancine.com/images/prod...r%20TT-C01.jpg

http://ikancorp.com/images/thumbnail...TT-E01-A_1.jpg

[Olof Ekbergh]

Originally Posted by Dave Allen

I am sure the rubber keeps it from rotating, I just like the idea of an added indexing pin.

At NAB I am trying to figure out of the Tilta external EVF monitor arm can be adapted to your right angle bracket. Also, my Movcam cage has two upper forward facing holes for short upper rods that perhaps something can be attached to that with a horizontal perpendicular arm to attach to your bracket.

Like these:

http://www.urbancine.com/images/prod...r%20TT-C01.jpg

http://ikancorp.com/images/thumbnail...TT-E01-A_1.jpg

I am sure you can work something out. I always try to make really compact simple rigs with as few parts as possible. With my level bracket any ¼ or ⅜ threaded device can be added to the bottom. The bottom is also rubberized so it helps to keep the base from swiveling as well.

I decided against the pin to keep production simple thus price down. I can install the "pin" as a custom addition for $25.00 extra. It means another "tool change" in the CNC machine and a hand insertion of the pin in a press. It also makes the rubber installation a bit trickier.

Remember we don't make thousands of these in a big factory. There actually is a lot of hand work in small production and keeping things simple keeps price down.