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Old July 26th, 2010, 06:50 AM   #16
Sponsor: Westside AV
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mount Washington Valley, NH, USA
Posts: 1,365
Hi Chris, I am sorry to hear about your problems.

You are the first one to report these problems. Other users and the user who developed this bracket with me can change the battery with the bracket installed.

The use of the wing on top of the bracket makes a very solid non velcro mount for wireless receivers and "hotshoes" can be used as well if velcro is not proper in your location, both of these are available on my website.

What batteries are you using?

Could you send me photos of your setup. I would like to fix this problem for you, and if it does not work refund you for your purchase.

You can contact me directly if you like, email me olof@westsideav.com. Skype works very well for these types of discussions. I hope we can resolve this problem for you quickly.
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Old July 26th, 2010, 07:53 AM   #17
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Location: Alice Springs AU
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Thanks Olof, I appreciate that. I'm off to bed now though (11.20pm here)
and up early but hope to send an image through tomorrow. In the meantime do you have a higher res
image of your set up just in case I've missed something? By the way I use Swit batteries.
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Old July 26th, 2010, 10:39 AM   #18
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Location: Ithaca, NY
Posts: 39
Hey Chris,

You might be surprised how long some industrial strength velcro can last. I've found humidity to be the real culprit with the adhesive.

Anyhow, here's what I own:
A-MWR | IDX Tek

Despite a couple of gripes (I always have them), I'm happy with it. It has a power tap, weighs very little, and makes batteries changes a breeze.

I still keep the velcro on the batts and nano just in case I run into certain situations where I can't use the IDX mount.

Cheers,
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Old July 26th, 2010, 11:15 AM   #19
Sponsor: Westside AV
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mount Washington Valley, NH, USA
Posts: 1,365
Chris, here is a higher res photo of Paul Cronin's setup on a 350, there is plenty of room to remove the battery.

He is now using the same setup on an 800 w/o problems.
Attached Thumbnails
NanoFlash Camera Mounts-350paulcronin.jpg  
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Old July 26th, 2010, 06:56 PM   #20
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Thanks Eric, I'll look into that.

Olof, Paul's gap between bracket and battery seems to be about an inch, unfortunately mine, as you can see, is more like 1/4" from the d-tap rubber hood, so I cannot remove it. Also the supplied silver screws simply fall loosely all the way into the outer holes, there is no thread contact. Maybe there was a mix-up with other screws? Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
NanoFlash Camera Mounts-img_0079.jpg   NanoFlash Camera Mounts-img_0080.jpg  

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Old July 27th, 2010, 04:31 AM   #21
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Padua/Venice - Italy
Posts: 131
Nanoflash mount

Hi, I understand perfectly Chris’s problem. I have the same problem with my battery (Omega,pmw-350,and nanoflash).I do also ENG and I was forced to renounce shooting with nano things like news or other stuff like that( I use nano for other projects, spots and corporate video’s).
The solution is to purchase other new batteries, but I have just bought mine and I have no intentions to buy new batteries anytime soon.
It could be easier if we have the same screw that we use to attach the nano ,it’s easier and faster to un screw
But I have to say that I’m very happy with all new equipment(nanoflash, mount compact flash ecc..) I bought from nanoflash.net, Rick is great.
And nanoflash is one of the best purchase I have done in the last 5 years.
Samer
Attached Thumbnails
NanoFlash Camera Mounts-img_3811.jpg   NanoFlash Camera Mounts-img_3708.jpg  

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Old July 27th, 2010, 05:58 AM   #22
Sponsor: Westside AV
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mount Washington Valley, NH, USA
Posts: 1,365
Chris and Samer, thanks for your post.

I can redesign the 350 bracket so that it clears the larger batteries. I want to fix this problem, it is ridicules to have to remove the bracket to change batteries.

I am just about to make another batch of these brackets anyway so I will do the mod on these.

I can think of 2 ways to do this. One is to add a spacer, how tall would it have to be?

The other is to redesign the bracket with additional bends.

If you would like to be my beta tester I will supply you with a test version first and then with a new production version when they are ready.

Could you contact me by email or phone. A Skype call would be great, email me first to set it up. I want to confirm with some measurements exactly how to modify the bracket.

I think a solid aluminum spacer is the easiest fix, I would then make it available for anyone that has the larger batteries. And it would become part of the kit in the future, to be installed if you have larger batteries, but could be left off for a more compact setup.

olof@westsideav.com
603.383.9283
cel 603.387.4921

Thanks
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Old July 27th, 2010, 06:08 AM   #23
Sponsor: Westside AV
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mount Washington Valley, NH, USA
Posts: 1,365
Chris, I would like to find out why your 2mm screws don't fit.

There may be an update to these cameras by Sony.

Could you try the 4mm screw to see if it fits the outer holes as well.

Maybe Sony increased the size to 2.5 or 3mm.

Contact me when you get a chance, we will work this out.

olof@westsideav.com
603.383.9283
cel 603.387.4921

Thanks
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Old July 27th, 2010, 06:47 AM   #24
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Location: Alice Springs AU
Posts: 187
Olof,

The 4mm screws are far too thick and the supplied screws just touch the sides when in the holes, so
I would suspect you're on the right track, but can't really advise more. My suggestion would be to try and mount a locking hinge very close to where it screws on now. In other words the hinge flips up to allow access to the battery, but then locks back in place with gravity when it's down. But maybe I should just stick to camerawork too!

In terms of upward movement it actually doesn't need much to release the battery, maybe just 12mm, but that's just release, of course you need some manouvering room under the bracket as well, so I think 25mm. Only thing that might vary that is if people are using the d-tap on top of the swit, that adds a bit more. I use the on camera light d-tap on the side of the camera myself. Happy to beta test, but couldn't skype last time I tried (combination mac and satellite broadband issue). I get really cheap calls though through Jajah so can just do that. Probably be tomorrow morning your time though. We are + 9.30 GMT so what time is best for you?
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