View Flash XDR Time Lapse Sequences Here

[Mark Job]

Hi Friends:
Please follow the link here to stream a flash media video of my first timelapse attempt with the Flash XDR. I have several other tests to upload, so I'll be posting those in this thread as well. This is one frame every 7 seconds shot on my Canon XL H1 to a Sandisk Extreme IV 16 GB CF Card. Video is made up of a whole bunch of tiny 3 second video files put together on an Avid Media Composer timeline (Ver 3.1.3.2) and exported via a QT Reference to Sorensen Squeeze (Version 4.5.700). FLV file was encoded using the Sorensen Spark codec.

Test

[Paul Cronin]

Thanks Mark,

Besides the Star filter what else did you use to keep exposure right while the sun entered the frame.

[Mark Job]

Hi Paul:
I used no Star Filter on the Canon Xl H1. The star effect is what the iris diaphram leafs produce as they close down. I set the exposure on automatic and used the built in maximum Neutral Density filter setting built inside of the lens at 1/32 ND. The gain setting for the video signal was set manually @ 0 db gain. White ballance was set at Sunlight. I deliberately left in the *speed jump* to show that this must be addressed somehow, or you *must* take your sequence in ONE (1) recording session and record longer than what you need so the speed jump can be cut off the end of your Time Lapse Sequence.

[Paul Cronin]

Thanks Mark,

So the speed jump is from the Nano? An you are saying the jump can be cut out if you record longer then needed? Just checking since I have still not had a chance to do a time lapse with my Nano.

[Mark Job]

Hi Paul:
I don't have an nano. I own its big brother the Flash XDR. I'm saying the speed jump can be cut out if you record your timelapse in One (1) session *ONLY,* and record longer than what is required. Dam Keaton says that the speed jump is needed to rapidly close the file, or else it wouldtake 9 hours plus to close a timelapse MPEG data chunk.

[Paul Cronin]

Makes sense thanks Mark.

[Dan Keaton]

Dear Paul,

The timelapse works the same on the Flash XDR and the nanoFlash.

If you record a long time sequence, there will be one "Speed Jump", frames recorded at the very end of the last clip in the sequence, which will be up to 1 GOP, or up to 15 frames at regular speed, up to 1/2 second of video at regular speed.

If you start and stop your timelapse, then you will get one of these each time you stop.

We recommend recording your timelapse in one continuous recording, then recording at least one second longer than what you need, then slicing off the last second of video at the end of the last clip.

We realize that this may require AC Power, or a UPS, or a large battery rig for very long, uninterrupted timelapse sequences.

[Paul Cronin]

Thanks Dan,

For my entire time lapse in the past I have always started and stopped with plenty of extra room in the clip so I can cut the best out. I think this is normal practice so you have options in any clip shot.

[Aaron Newsome]

So here's a timelapse for you. Well sort of. I've been considering going out into the outdoors and getting some timelapse shots just for the fun of it. Since my camera will kill a Dionic 90 in about 50 minutes, I needed some cheap portable power. Dionic 90s are more than $400 each.

So I started considering these portable 12v things that can jumpstart your car. They also have 12v power ports, in addition to being able to jumpstart a car. I looked at a couple of them and they were cheap enough to give it a try. There was a black and decker at home depot for $99. And then I came across this one at Costco for $65. Cheap enough.

So before I dragged it out to get some timelapse shots, I needed to know how long will the battery powering my camera.

What better way than to test the timelapse capability, than to do a timelapse.

I used the iphone as a slate, and added a voltmeter to get an accurate reading of the power level over time. The little $65 battery powered my camera for over 3 hours. Darn good enough to do some decent sequences. In three hours, the voltage dropped from 12.70v to 11.8v, at which point my camera shut off.

I haven't done enough testing to say whether or not I recommend doing something like this. My first thought is, this probably isn't a real good way to power a camera. It's darn cheap though and you can't ignore that.

PSX Timelapse Testing

[Dan Keaton]

Dear Aaron,

Thanks for posting.

I assume that you were using the DC output to power your camera.


Some of these have built in AC Inverters, but they almost always are "Modified Sine Wave".

They usually advise against powering sensitive electronics (and their power supplies) from a "Modified Sine Wave" inverter.

However, the DC output of these units are fine.

[Aaron Newsome]

You're right Dan. Cheap inverters produce no where near a sine wave. Those inverters can ruin electronics. I cringe hooking up my MacBook pro power supply to an inverter, and that only costs $70 to replace when it blows up. No way I'm connecting my camera to one.

[Mark Job]

Hi Shooters:
I posted some more behind the scenes clips Flash XDR shooting in downtown Montreal @ Philips Square. Please Stand By

[Aaron Newsome]

All I see are behind the scenes, where's the actual timelapse sequences!

[Mark Job]

Hi Aaron:
I'm editing the footage now. I should have it up late tonight. Yah, sorry about that.

[Daniel Symmes]

Well you DID say it was "behind the scenes."

:o)