|
|||||||||
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
January 24th, 2004, 04:47 PM | #16 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Canberra AUSTRALIA
Posts: 169
|
I have always used lens cleaning tissue after foging up the lens or filter with my breath. But, I always get tissue specs/dust on the filter and then have to blow them off with a blower brush bulb thingy.
Is there now a better way? ie using something like a glasses cleaning cloth or this: Microdear Microdear Microfiber Deluxe Cleaning Cloth - Small (11 x 11.75") http://www.adorama.com/CPCMS.html |
January 24th, 2004, 06:27 PM | #17 |
Warden
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 8,287
|
Microfiber cloths are my preferred method. The cloths are machine washable in cold water, just don't dry them in the dryer.
__________________
Jeff Donald Carpe Diem Search DVinfo.net for quick answers | Where to Buy? From the best in the business: DVinfo.net sponsors |
January 25th, 2004, 04:56 PM | #18 |
Major Player
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 355
|
Here's a good one that's still on topic -- I just took out my old polarizer that I've had stored away for at least 20 years.
I just bought a Nikkor 24-120mm zoom and was pleased to find my old 85mm polarizer fits. Only problem is that it has picked up a layer of "clean dirt" - a film of microscopic particles that can't easily be cleaned by blowing or with a tissue. The lens has been kept inside its pouch for all this time and I don't think the film is on the inside of the lens. If it's there then I would need to find out how to separate both pieces of glass. Any ideas? |
January 25th, 2004, 05:14 PM | #19 |
Warden
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 8,287
|
Most polarizers (especially older versions) do not have sealed edges. This accounts for the dust between the layers. A good quality filter can be disassembled with a spanner wrench. Once the locking retainer ring is removed the elements can be removed and cleaned. Be careful, the elements might stick and not separate cleanly.
If the filter has a compression ring holding the elements in the mounting ring, it is more difficult to take apart and generally may not be worth the effort. It should also be noted that most newer auto focus and auto exposure cameras need a circular polarizer. The AF and AE mechanisms can be thrown off by a linear polarizer.
__________________
Jeff Donald Carpe Diem Search DVinfo.net for quick answers | Where to Buy? From the best in the business: DVinfo.net sponsors |
January 25th, 2004, 09:27 PM | #20 |
Major Player
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 355
|
Thank you Jeff. Some time this week I'll "carpe diem" and get to work on the polarizer. BTW - it is a circular one.
|
March 12th, 2006, 07:20 PM | #21 | |
Major Player
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 735
|
Quote:
|
|
March 12th, 2006, 11:13 PM | #22 |
Major Player
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 355
|
John,
Thanks for the post which awoke this thread from a deep sleep. It's 2006 and I'm still here. I'm mainly paying attention to my son's photography and art work which I find outstanding - much better than anything I could have ever done. And to think this kid came from me (and his mom, of course). He's off to college in the fall, taking along my old Nikkormat FE and maybe a small digital. The XL1s stays here. Oz |
March 12th, 2006, 11:35 PM | #23 |
Wrangler
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Southwest Idaho, USA
Posts: 3,066
|
I remember this thread from way back when! Nice find, John; it brings back memories of the folks I miss from the old days--like Ken, Jeff, Frank, and yes, Ozzie--it's good to "see" you again. I devoured the things you wrote; you and others were an inspiration to me.
We need an "old folks" forum! :)
__________________
Lorinda |
March 13th, 2006, 05:53 PM | #24 |
Major Player
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 355
|
Gee, now that I know someone "devoured" the things I wrote, maybe I'll get back to writing. It's been a very hectic couple of years. I can’t say I’m having a lot of fun; it looks like I’m transitioning from “doing” to “consulting” and teaching. Again, I can’t say I like it all, but that’s the direction the winds are blowing. So you see, you have been an inspiration to get me talking again. Beware: rants and thoughts ahead.
|
March 13th, 2006, 06:01 PM | #25 |
Wrangler
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Southwest Idaho, USA
Posts: 3,066
|
By all means, please--write, rant, tell stories. We will eat it up! :)
__________________
Lorinda |
March 14th, 2006, 03:39 AM | #26 |
Trustee
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Worldwide
Posts: 1,589
|
...the years seem to fly by...
....And for anybody that has left fingerprints on the front element of their prized lenses between 2002 and 2006...here is my favourite method of cleaning optics:
I always carry with me a selection of high-grade chamois leathers. First brush dust clear with a soft brush (I use a clean make-up brush). A gentle breath on the lens, followed immediately by rubbing the lens in a circular fashion with the soft side of the chamois will maintain pristine clarity of your favourite glass. For stubborn marks, spray a single drop of lens cleaning fluid and wipe gently with a chamois cloth. I also carry extra chamois cloths (kept separate from main chamois cloth that is used for front/rear glass element cleaning) for cleaning dust and absorbing moisture/ran drops/dew from the camera body and lens barrel, and mainly use the rough side for dust or marks and the soft side for moisture absorption (Do NOT use this same cloth for cleaning the front or rear elements of your lenses, because it may carry tiny particles in the cloth that can leave faint scratches on the glass). I have been using chamois leather to clean expensive lenses for the past thirty years without problems; but for true security and longevity of your lens coatings, also try to keep a UV or other filter screwed to the front of the lens when you are filming or photographing in harsh outdoor environments. |
| ||||||
|
|