February 2nd, 2003, 12:44 PM | #676 |
Warden
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 8,287
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Put the lens cap on and shoot black. Play it back on a monitor and adjust the brightness and contrast and see if it shows up in the same spot. If it does, you've got a bad pixel. I believe Canon Service will attempt to mask it out.
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February 4th, 2003, 04:50 PM | #677 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Vestfold in Norway
Posts: 103
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Better lens cup?
In my search for a better lens cup I searched and found one solution here at DVinfo.net. Based on this I did purchase the Hoodman H-XL1, but I am not quite satisfied with that one. In my continued search I came across the i-cuff. Now I would like to know if there is someone who have tried this product? It looks very good, and seems to keep itīs shape better.
The site is: http://www.i-cuff.com/ Ivan |
February 4th, 2003, 10:27 PM | #678 |
Retired DV Info Net Almunus
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 6,943
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Ivan,
The i-cuff is a good product. It may take a bit of getting used to, particularly if you wear glasses. Still, for the XL1s' standard viewfinder, it's a darn sight better than the standard cup. Just make sure you buy the correct model for your camera.
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February 5th, 2003, 01:26 AM | #679 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Torotnto, Canada
Posts: 139
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Toronto - Getting the most out of my XL1s
I recently shot some footage with my xl1s and it looks pretty bad. I lit the shoot with a tota light, set my Zebra's to 100% looked fine in viewfinder, but it came out over exposed.
Is there anyone out there from T.O. that knows the Xl1s inside and out that could show me a few things? I want to feel like I am driving the Camera/light, rather then the other way around thanks, Michael |
February 5th, 2003, 05:33 AM | #680 |
Posts: n/a
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New buyer of XL1s
I will be purchasing a XL1s very soon.
Any suggestions what I might need to purchase with it. Also I am finding quite a diversity of places to purchase it from, with a wide range of prices. Any suggestions on where to purchase it would be helpful. I will mainly be using it in a studio enviroment. Also does the XL1s have a LCD screen like many of the camcorders do today. Thanks |
February 5th, 2003, 06:09 AM | #681 |
RED Code Chef
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Holland
Posts: 12,514
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With all due respect, but if you are asking whether the XL1s
has an LCD screen I think you might not have done your home- work well enough to buy one. It is an expensive piece of gear and you must make sure that it is suited to your needs! Make sure that it does. There have been a lot of threads on this topic and there is even one at the top of this forum. Also where not to buy.
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February 5th, 2003, 06:51 AM | #682 |
RED Code Chef
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Holland
Posts: 12,514
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Personally I have set the zebra at 90 instead of 100 (and in
case with your IRE levels in NTSC land I'd drop that to 80) to make sure I have a little bit more room before it blows out. My viewfinder seems to make things darker then they are, perhaps yours does it the other way around? I've learned the most on how to judge my image in the viewfinder when I hooked it up to a TV and compared the two. I suggest you do the same. That way you can expirement more easily and see what works and doesn't. I'd definitely lower the zebra level though! It is only an indicator and it can better warn you before you are about to clip instead of that it is already clipping (which it does when you set it at 100). Hope this explained it a bit!
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February 5th, 2003, 10:22 AM | #683 |
Major Player
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Illinois
Posts: 888
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cheap mics
I want to buy a couple of cheap mics. I want the clip on mics. Where is a good place to buy them. I would also like get a mixer. I don't want junk, but I'm on a tight budget right now.
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February 5th, 2003, 08:16 PM | #684 |
Wrangler
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Tickfaw, LA
Posts: 1,217
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Radio Shack. They have some decent lavs.
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February 5th, 2003, 08:25 PM | #685 |
Wrangler
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Tickfaw, LA
Posts: 1,217
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Yes, I would recommend that you read further both at the Canon site and the web. The XL-1S is not for everyone, but is quite a machine. Be sure it is the cam for you! Be like Goldilocks and make sure it is 'just right' for you.
The best suggestions of where to buy from are from sponsors of this site. These vendors know how to support users of these systems while cheaper outlets do not.
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February 6th, 2003, 01:34 PM | #686 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 32
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Shared timecode
I am accustomed to linking the Timecode Out of one Betacam to the Timecode In of another so different angles of the same images have the same timecode. It is great for posting a multi-cam shoot.
Now my primary location cameras are an XL-1 and an XL-1s. Is there a way to have them share timecode? |
February 6th, 2003, 01:58 PM | #687 |
Warden
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 8,287
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No, the timecode that DV uses is not true SMPTE timecode. You can't jam sync or slave the timecode so they lock together. However, it is digital and the servo's are extremely accurate, so generally no slippage occurs. Most people who need to match frame multiple cameras do so visually. The use of an electronic flash (fired at the cameras while recording) will cause only one frame to be completely white. The common white frame is then used to match all the cameras in post.
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February 6th, 2003, 05:57 PM | #688 |
Tourist
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 3
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Black Diffusion FX / Soft FX Filters
Hey All,
Thought I'd post my experience of shooting with Tiffen's 1/2 Black Diffusion FX for interior interviews and the 1 Soft FX for exteriors with on camera talent. In short, I really like both filters for their respective abilities to smooth and control highlights without losing any crispness in the shot. Very subtle diffusion and in all the right places. I used the Manual 14x lens for both of these tests/ I first learned about these filters in the VideoSystems December 2002 article by Barry Braverman (who also took time to respond to my email. ) Barry had recommended the 1/2 Soft FX, but for the look I need, I chose the Grade 1 after testing both versions. The 1/2 BDFX used with an XL-1 and an Arri Fresnel 650 / 300 light kit made my talent look even better on camera. Subtle lines / blemishes were eliminated without losing any crispness in the shot. Works just as advertised! For the 1 Soft FX used with a Tiffen ND 6 and B+W UV filter (tested at 1pm in bright LA sunlight) the Soft FX created a half step loss in exposure which brought me down to skinny f4 at a shutter speed of 120. Changing the shutter speed also gave me more exposure control, which now ranged from a skinny f4 to a skinny f5.6 Up to now, exposure had always been an issue when shooting in very sunny conditions with no scrims / diffusion for talent. For those considering these 2 filters, I for one am very happy with my investment. Rent them for a day and see if you like the results. I sure did! Philip Rebentisch Wine Table Media Digital Video For Marketing and Public Relations |
February 9th, 2003, 03:32 AM | #689 |
New Boot
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Brighton, England
Posts: 12
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Varizoonm 'drifting' problem.
OK, I'm at a big soccer match and using my new Varizoom Pro-L and its great. Then all of a sudden it starts zooming out and the record button won't work to 'pause' until its fully zoomed out. Then it settles down for 15 minutes and then it goes again. Not all the way out, but definitely moving without being touched.
After a while its behaving itself pretty well and for the last hour of a two hour shoot there's no problem. Have I got a dud? Anyone got any ideas? |
February 9th, 2003, 10:16 AM | #690 |
Obstreperous Rex
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That sounds like a defective unit. Contact Tom Smith at VariZoom, at www.varizoom.com
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