XL1 / XL1S various posts

[Dean Orewiler]

It all depends on your finances - and the goal of your project. If you feel like the XL1 is accomplishing your goals and creating the look you want - even after post production, keep it. There are still many people who are using this camera for production work. The great thing is that the XL cameras can accept the firestore HD so when your head goes to hell after tremendous use, you can always go to the newer technology. It also depends on your finances - if you want to get a camera with more features, by all means sell the XL1 and get the XL1s or XL2. My philosophy on this: The end result (your project) is your main concern. It's not so much the camera, but the story, actors, direction and technical creativity. This is how I would determine it's worth. I'm a film guy - I almost purchased an Arri S 16mm camera - but after I found out what expenses are involved with the whole process, I went with the XL1s instead. I could have shot the movie just as easy (if not easier) with a film camera, but then you have your expenses above and beyond - the film, the processing, the conversion to digital format, etc. etc....I bought the XL1S because I could save money in the long run and in post production software, make the tape look close to film. I'm learning this whole thing when it comes to video...I know quite abit about film cameras, but learning the digital arena.

[Alfonso Rojas]

Yah, I like the whole look of my overall projects. I was recently on a shoot with a dvx and found to like it a lot. I didnt use that camera enough to make a jump to it but so far it really worked nice! I'm going to check out the HVX200 the 28th at an apple siminar so i'll find out out how that peice of machine works too. 24p, HD, I'm really eager to check it out. Anyways thanks for the help and for now I guess I'll keep the XL1. Thanks much!
-Alfonso

[Dean Orewiler]

I have not used my 16x manual lens yet and want to make sure I'm using it correctly. I have a question about the Flange rear ring fixing screw...I want to loosen it, but not sure if I just grab the who screw that has the knurled marks on it, or in the middle, there is a place you put a screw driver....are they one in the same or two separate moving parts. I don't want to screw it up, and the directions are vague....

Also, the lens was in SERVO when I first got it, and I attempted to zoom for a second manually, until I moved about an inch and remembered that is was in SERVO instead of manual...could this have damaged the lens??

When I go from manual zoom to Servo, I hear a quick click sound..is this normal?? I believe it's just engaging the clutch or servo and it clicks until it catches the SERVO...

Just a few questions.

[Dean Orewiler]

Is the Century .6 wide-angle adapter suspose to bayonet on and not fit tight?? I'm using the 16x manual lens and when I bayonet it on, it seems loose (not tight at all) with play (push and pull) of adapter....Wasn't sure if this was normal or not. It says it goes to an XL1, but I'm not sure if it is recommended for the manual lens or not....it should, they are the same thread size.

[Andrew Todd]

where can i buy a cap for my lens mount/ccd.. like for when i have the lens off. i want to start taking the lens off for travel but i dont have any protection for the lens mount.. and i would never think of leaving it bare

[Henry Cho]

hi dean...

CO makes a specific mount for the 16x manual lens. Send it to CO and they'll switch the mounts for you for a fee. if i remember correctly, it was about a hundred bucks for parts and labor, and a two-week turnaround time.

[Henry Cho]

hi dean...

regarding the backfocus adjustment knob (this is what you're referring to?), you can grab the entire piece. it's all the same moving part. and no need for a screwdriver, unless i guess you really want to lock the backfocus down.

don't worry about the click when switching from manual to servo zoom. you're right... it's the servo motor latching onto the zoom ring.

[James Binder]

Hi –

I own an XL1 (not XL1s):

Is there a way to mix the boom mic (on the camera) with an external mic (RCA line in)?

I want to use the on camera mic to pick up audience sound while I run a feed from a hand held mic to the audio inputs on the camera (to capture a person speaking).

Thanks --

[Don Palomaki]

This is coverd in a number of past threads. The easiest way is to use 12-bit, 4-channel, mode (adequate for mainly voice work). Feed the on-camera mic to channels 1 and 2 (where they normally go) and your boom mic to channel 3 and/or 4 (on the Audio 2 input jacks. You will need to select 12-bit, 4-channel mode from the menu and set th Audio 2 input senmsitivity to an appropriate level, e.g., MIC or MIC ADTT, depedning on themic used and the venue. Note soem NLEs do nto support 4-channel capture, and if that is the case with you rs wyou may need a acquire a capture utility, or capture audio 3/4 separately and sync it in post.

Alternativelt you could fabricate a special adapter to combine the on-board mic with an external mic - bu thta may be beyond the capability of many shooters.

[James Binder]

Dan --

Thanks for the input --

[Chris Korrow]

I'm working on top af a large building and keep getting interference from the dishes up there, (beeps in the audio and occasional lines running through the image). I'm also getting a lot of time code breaks. Could these signals be damaging my camera?
Thanks,
Chris

[Don Palomaki]

Not likely damaging the camcorder if they are not damaging you (but you never know for sure until it is too late), even if they mess up the video of the moment. To be sure, shoot some test footage away form the dishes.

[Chris Korrow]

Thanks for the reply Don, Here's some other stuff I found, Thought it would be good to have in the archives.

FROM MANUAL

"• External interference may cause the camera’s
microprocessor to malfunction temporarily. If
random letters appear in the display or if normal
operation is interrupted, remove and then replace
the power source (and if necessary, the back-up
battery)."

FROM CANON (sent an e-mail Sat. evening and got a response by Sunday morning)

"Thank you for your inquiry. We value you as a Canon customer and
appreciate the opportunity to assist you. I am sorry to hear that
satellite signals are negatively affecting the XL1S camcorder.

satellite signals should not damage the XL1S camcorder, however, it
sounds as though the magnetic fields may be distorting the information
on the DV cassette. As Canon would only produce rain and cold weather
jackets, you may want to see if any third party company produces a
shielding jacket for this camcorder. I would recommend performing a
Google search for this product."
Chris

[Jack Miles]

Hello all,

I am interested in purchasing the Canon VL-10LI light for my XL1s and I hae a couple questions. First, how effective is the light? There isn't really a way to measure what it puts off, but say your shooting in the dark, does it put off enough light to successfully illuminate a person or object in relatively close distance? Also how long would a BP-915, 930, or 945 battery last?

Thanks in advance!

[Dan Keaton]

Yes, it will illuminate a person at close distance.

I believe that the specifications say that a BP-945 lasts 270 minutes. I am doing this from memory, as my unit (with the instructions) are currently in Ethopia at this time.

One of my friends took my light to film orphans for adoption. The light worked very well and actually saved the day. The orphans were in a darkened room, lit by an open doorway. Whenever my friend tried to film, local people crowded the doorway and shut out all of the available light. The light allowed her to complete her assignment.

I may be off on the 270 minutes, but it is a long time.

This is not a high end light, but it is helpful in certain situations.