why SHOULDN'T i get the XL-2?

[Dave Perry]

Originally Posted by Doug Boze

Mike, QT sucks for the reasons you mentioned. Definitely anti-PC software. I got the exact same results as you. If you can find the file on your machine, then download the VLC player from Videolan. It'll play it, no problem, and no hassle from the Mac-a-bees.

Must be a problem with your PC. I checked the file info on those movies and they are PC friendly Sorenson 3video with MP3 audio.

[Mike Teutsch]

Originally Posted by Doug Boze

Mike, QT sucks for the reasons you mentioned. Definitely anti-PC software. I got the exact same results as you. If you can find the file on your machine, then download the VLC player from Videolan. It'll play it, no problem, and no hassle from the Mac-a-bees.

Doug,

Thank you VERY much! It did work and now I can watch it. Funny thing is it said it was already on my computer, but it couldn't find it anywhere, so just added the new one.

Glad you are still speaking to me! :)

Will drop you an email.

Mike

[Miguel Lombana]

Originally Posted by Richard Alvarez

edited for content...

It's HEAVY. I shoot mostly on tripod, and I shoot with a full ENG setup - that means the FU-1000 viewfinder and 16x Manual lens, with the Dual batt pack on the back.

Damn Rich, how much does all that weigh!!! BTW, why the B&W viewfinder over the color one? Also with the battery pack on the back, where are you mounting the wireless mics that you surely have?

Miguel

[Frank Moss]

Originally Posted by Mike Teutsch

Man, I would love to see the tour movie, but unfortunetly it will not play for me. I have it saved, but each time I try to play it, it says it won't play because it has a "bad public movie atom" in it. I have no idea what that means, and it really sounds silly.

Mike, (and others)
this mean that the Digital Right Management (DRM) is corrupt in the file... you need a player that doesn't read DRM like the latter post.

For me the XL2 is like the Money Pit - I keep wanting to buy more and more and more for it... I just wish we had the time to use it.

Miguel.. the B&W viewfinder is used because color screens emits radiation that will eventually damage your eyes. Also it's easier to focus amoung other things.

back to video server configs.....

[Mike Teutsch]

Originally Posted by Frank Moss

Mike, (and others)
this mean that the Digital Right Management (DRM) is corrupt in the file... you need a player that doesn't read DRM like the latter post.

For me the XL2 is like the Money Pit - I keep wanting to buy more and more and more for it... I just wish we had the time to use it.

Miguel.. the B&W viewfinder is used because color screens emits radiation that will eventually damage your eyes. Also it's easier to focus amoung other things.

back to video server configs.....

Thanks Frank,

Using Doug's suggestion I downloaded the Player and it works great! This is the movie I have been waiting for. I have "The Ultimate Guide to the Canon XL2," but it is very disapointing, IMHO.

The FU-1000 Viewfinder uses a CRT instead of LCD screen, don't know and never heard of the radiation factor. The CRT is a higher ressolution, and I believe it also has underscan or at least is more accurate in frameing. Most find it very much better at obtaining a correct focus.

Just finished watching the movie and feel really energized now.

Good luck all---Mike

[Doug Boze]

Originally Posted by Matthew Nayman

BTW, I have the Kata CRC15, and it fights very nicely over everything,

I'm kind of surprised by that. It looks like it's designed for smaller handycam-style cameras. I'm leaning towards a Cam-Kote.

[Doug Boze]

Originally Posted by Frank Moss

the B&W viewfinder is used because color screens emits radiation that will eventually damage your eyes. Also it's easier to focus amoung other things.

That's something I've never heard of, either. Any circuit operating at or above 16 kV will emit x-rays, but I believe these 1.5" CRTs operate at much lower voltages. B&W is used because there is no shadow mask and you get the maximum resolution and luminance detail necessary for critical focusing. Any color display, be it LCD or CRT, will have less resolution. The downside of the CRT viewfinders is the power drain of a couple of watts or more.

[Pete Bauer]

Frank, do you have any sources for your opinion about viewfinder radiation dangers?

I'd be amazed if both viewfinders were anything but perfectly safe from a radiation standpoint. But **theoretically**, IF one were a risk, it would be the FU-1000. The color viewfinder is an LCD screen, so should emit only negligible RF; the FU-1000 is an actual CRT, so uses an electron beam like any TV set. That is radiation, but at a very low level and the same as with B&W TVs. So I'm doubtful pending reading source documents.

I'm simply not aware of any concerns related to the use of such a device. But I'll double check with our eye expert at work on Tuesday just to be absolutely certain. If you have a source, let us know -- o/w let's not get into FUD (fear, uncertainty, and doubt).

[Rodney Compton]

Originally Posted by Richard Alvarez

I've had mine for a little over a year, and love it. As to reasons NOT to buy one, for most people it's because it's NOT HDV.

But if you're not on the HDV bandwagon, or looking to get on soon, then I'd say it's the best DV camera out there. Different cams have their strengths and weaknesses, but all around, I'd say it's the best.

Nit picking issues I've discovered with mine.

The little 'door' that covers the RCA line ports is kinda cheezy. Tends to pop loose now and again.(At least on mine)

The eject button can sometimes be bumped by your hand while holding it by the handle, causing the cassette to rise, without opening the door.

It's HEAVY. I shoot mostly on tripod, and I shoot with a full ENG setup - that means the FU-1000 viewfinder and 16x Manual lens, with the Dual batt pack on the back.

You can FRY the main circuit board of the camera or the lens if you change the lens without powering down.

If you are not paying attention, it's easy to accidently set the 'gain' button... turning the gain to 'automatic'. In this position, NO GAIN INFORMATION will show in the viewfinder. Funny, when the gain is OFF, it reads +/-0 When it's ON -3, it shows up in the VF, when its ON +3,,9 whatever -it shows up. But if it's on AUTOMATIC you can have the gain running up and down in the course of a shot, and never know it till playback. (Admittedly this is entirely Operator error, but I'd like to see an "AUTO" reading in the viewfinder when the gain is on automatic.)

You can accidently hit 'standby' when reaching for the white balance button. Again, this is an ergonomic operator error that comes from not taking my eyes of the viewfinder while pushing buttons. Lesson learned.

But really, it's a great camera. Mine has already paid for itself in a year, so no regrets if later I want to sell it and go HD. But frankly, my choice is to sit out HDV/HD for at least another year.

Hi Richard

Thanks, your comments are very interesting. I am sure there are a number of us with the XL2 who are thinking about HDV and would echo your thoughts about waiting a year. I though am more interested in your comments about the ENG set up you use and the mono viewfinder. I have been using my XL2 on wildlife for a year and would appreciate your advice about the 16x manual lens in terms of image quality - with the idea that it could be used on the XLHI body as and when it is purchased - (I wonder if a 2/3" Canon ENG could be adapted - especially one with a X2 adapter). The same goes for the viewfinder system - I had a chance to have a look in a Sony mono HD viewfinder recently and I was very impressed with the clarity, I wonder how much advantage the Canon mono viewfinder would give me. Incidentally, when I was using Polaroid for image determination in my artificial light photographic studio, pre -digital, we were recommended to use black and white rather than colour because the contrast ratio and highlight rendering was closer to colour transparency. I wonder if there is an element of that in using a mono viewfinder, notwithstanding the obvious issue of clarity and resolution. Relatedly, most directors in the old days used to use a green filter in their 'prime simulation viewing optic' to get a monochrome effect so as to gauge contrast ratios when using real film.

I have to say, for an ex 16mm man, there have been some quite disconcerting anomalies with the XL2 when used in combination with the standard 20x lens set up: Dramatic purple colour fringing at full zoom, where there is a strongly delineated darkish image against a grey sky= chromatic aberration. Jaggies on moving leading edge highlight areas =clash of frame rate and shutter speed, and or aperture, which I have still not solved...

I would appreciate your further comments.

Rod Compton

UK

[Richard Alvarez]

Rod,
The 16x manual is a tad sharper than the 20x. Of course, you loose the image stabilization. It's also a bit faster, especially at the long end. This can come in handy if your trying to achieve the apparent look of shallow DOF as you know.

I don't own a 20x, but I don't see the kind of CA you are talking about on the 16x. Is it as good as BROADCAST glass for 2/3 cams??? Mmmm, Ive seen worse.

There's a thread going somewhere, that speaks to the use of the 16x with the new H1. Apparently, it holds up well. Not TECHNICALLY HD mind you, but holds up well.

The FU-1000 is definately a great aid in critical focussing. And the underscan is nice too.

Best thing I can recommend is to borrow/rent them and give them a whirl. I had used them (and the 14x, which is a sweet lens) on an Xl1 for years before purchasing the xl2.

[Greg Boston]

Rod,

I too have a full ENG setup XL2. I love the FU-1000 because of the aid in focusing it provides. It also shows the full frame and is about 700 lines of resolution. The FU-1000 is actually made by Ikegami for Canon. You wouldn't be disappointed with using one. The peaking control acts as a focus assist. Objects in focus will have a white highlight around them. Another less talked about feature of the FU-1000 is that it has a small lens light on the bottom that can be turned on or off with a switch on the underside. Great for seeing the barrel markings of the 16X manual when shooting at night.

Because the human eye is more sensitive to luminance than chrominance, having a b/w viewfinder helps tremendously.

regards,

-gb-