recommend me some stuff. please

[David Lach]

I don't agree with that. I never used a clear filter in my life when using much more expensive cine lenses. Be aware that any filter can degrade the image (ie. loss of sharpness) and increases the chances to get light distortion (flares).

If you're using the sunshade or a matte box, there's no reason to scratch a lens. It's not that easy to scratch. You really have to abuse it.

I myself only use filters when they're absolutely necessary (like a special effect or when doing run and gun stuff in an uncontrolled environment with dust and lots of hazards). Otherwise, the front of my lens remains bare naked. It has a cap for transport.

There's two way to look at it. You can figure a $50 filter is a cheap way to protect a $2000 lens, or you can figure a cheap $50 filter is a way to potentially degrade the nice image of your $2000 lens. I choose the latter. Unless you're extremely clumsy, I don't think a clear filter is necessary. Nothing more than a marketing gimmick (those photo stores must be doing a lot of profit on those filters).

[Charles Papert]

On the whole I follow the same guidelines as David. The circumstances under which I would use a clear filter for digital would be the same as with film production, which is when there is potential hazard to the front surface of the lens in a given shot. This would include: water or other liquids being splashed around (cover camera with plastic as well as use clear filter), things being thrown at or near the camera, etc. Common sense dictates a lot of this. I have on several occasions destroyed clear filters that were being used for these sorts of safety reasons; would hate to see what would have happened to the front element if they weren't in use.

[Marty Hudzik]

Having had a bad experience with a UV filter that reflected the lens back upon itself if the light was right I tend to steer away from them. I was filming a RB singer walking down the city sidewalk. He was walking at the camera as I walked backwards with a cheapo steadicam clone. The shot seemed ok. However upon review in the studio later it turns out that at certain moments the sunlight would sneak in past the hood and illuminate the actual last element of the lens. The UV filter reflected it back into itself and the shot was ruined.

I assumed this was just a cheap UV filter. So what would I buy to replace this? A good qulaity unit that will not reflect upon itself?

Thanks

[Charles Papert]

Based on the last couple of posts, I bet you could predict what David and I would recommend; just lose the filter!! Also, using an eyebrow or french flag is important in backlit situations (lens hoods don't do much for this sort of thing) to keep the sun from flaring.

[Kevin Gilvear]

Thanks fellas that is really helpful. I was only going to shoot in dry conditions, there will be sunny days and I was going to stick the lense hood that comes supplied on the end but the shots will be very controlled so I'll be avoiding any direct sunlight shots for example. maybe i can use a cover or something too, like suggested.

[Frederic Segard]

In the event of unavoidable lens flare where the standard lens hood cannot perform as desired, you can always get yourself some black cinefoil, or black foam core to ACT as a french flag or matte box. Very low cost, and very efficient.

[Kevin Gilvear]

how do you apply the cinefoil to cam?

[Kevin Gilvear]

Is the HC-3200 system case the only one available for the XL2? Its the only one I can find and a really pricey one at that. Surely there are cheaper ones that can protect the cam?

[Marty Hudzik]

<<<-- Originally posted by Kevin Gilvear : Is the HC-3200 system case the only one available for the XL2? Its the only one I can find and a really pricey one at that. Surely there are cheaper ones that can protect the cam? -->>>

I can't comment on hard cases but as far as bags I really like the Tamrac one (2249). I tried the Kata CCC-10 but hated it. The camera barely fit and I had to close the viewfinder every time. And there was no room for accessories. Plus the strap was really short! Just my opinion but when I sling it over my shoulder I don't like the camera bag in my armpit!

The tamrac works great. I highly reccomend it. Unless you need a hard shell case. Then I have no info.
Sorry!

[Kevin Gilvear]

thanks. That bag seems like you need to pack the cam with all bits attatched. is that right? Is there room to put the lense, viewfinder and accessories elsewhere?

[David Lach]

Kevin, You can find hard cases ranging from $50 to $500. It depends what you want to put in your case aside from the XL2 and one lens.

I myself bought a nice and big all aluminum and lockable Zero Halliburton 129c. It's not cheap at about $350 US but since I'll be carrying close to $9000 in equipment with that case, I figured it was worth it. It's a really big 29"x20"x10" case which will allow me to fit My XL2, the 20x lens, the 14x lens, a WA adapter, the 2x CRT viewfinder magnifier, 4 batteries, the LCD viewfinder, the CRT viewfinder, a home made matte box, the 2 lens hoods for both lenses, a director's viewfinder, the remote control and the charger.

If you need the size but can't afford an Halliburton, I recommend the Pelican 1650, which will cost around $150, can be locked with a locker and has waterproof anti-shock sidinds with foams inside.

If you do not plan to carry that much equipment in one case, any hard case will do, have a look on eBay, with Vanguard cases starting at $60 to smaller Halliburton's at around $200.

No matter what you choose, I recommend doing a little planing first. Measure all your gear precisely and try different fitting combinaisons either in Photoshop or on a sheet of paper to see if it will all fit in. You wouldn't want to shell $200 on a case only to find out there's not quite enough room in it for all your gear.

[Kevin Gilvear]

thanks david. I'll have a look around. Really it'll be for the cam, cables, viewfinder. the stuff that comes as standard with th eoriginal box. i can always buy a smaller bag for other items i guess

[Kevin Gilvear]

http://www.worldtraveler.com/servlets/store?S_=WorldTraveler__1096238293807&Page=shop/large_product.html&prodid=1691&viewnum=2&ref=brandresults

how do you fit the xl2 etc in that? did you make your own insides?

[David Lach]

The cases comes with a big cuttable foam inside. You just lay your gear on top, might want to trace around with a pen, and custom cut the foam to your various accessories' shapes. They then fit snuggly into place and will not move during transport.

[Kevin Gilvear]

I see :)

Does this size sound good for a vanguard case i'm looking at on ebay?

460(L)x330(W)x155(H)mm

18(L)x13(W)x6(H)in