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July 5th, 2007, 09:48 AM | #16 |
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Thanks Bill that is what I thought play mode. It would worry me to do it in record mode.
The directions are in Japanese. |
July 6th, 2007, 02:51 AM | #17 |
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The cleaning tape I have (TDK) has a hole where normally the overwrite-protection slider is, so this prevents you from using it in recording mode (unless you are going to cover it with celluloid tape...).
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July 6th, 2007, 11:01 AM | #18 |
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Cleaning may have solved the problem
The stuttering and sound loss does appear to be HDV dropout after all. After a cleaning, it seems ok now. It didn't take very long to get dirty heads - only about 3 hours from the previous cleaning. One interesting thing is that both affected tapes were recorded in rainy conditions. Could high humidity make it worse?
My remaining question is about one sound problem in where the sound on both channels became very loud for two seconds, past the point of distortion, then cut out for a second or two. This is what still worries me. Thanks for all the good advice, everybody. |
July 6th, 2007, 11:13 AM | #19 |
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same prob
Hey guys, I have been experiencing the same prob as you all has anyone contacted Canon about this issue or is the cleaning tapes doing the job?
Brandon And I agree that it is very annoying to have to deal with it since I am doing multi cam shoots and it jacks up the multi clip |
July 6th, 2007, 01:00 PM | #20 |
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Is the "drop out" or break in the data stream always at the same point on the tape, or does it vary? Can your capture the effected footage by going back over the section of the tape where the break happened
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July 6th, 2007, 01:56 PM | #21 |
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Very happy with the improved video and audio after running a head cleaner. Today was the first shoot in three weeks with no drop frames and clear audio for the whole shoot.
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July 6th, 2007, 04:30 PM | #22 |
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Same here
I just got my camera a week ago, and shot through my first tape. I had 3 drop-outs similar to that described by others. I would also be interested to see if anyone has contacted canon about this? Would be tough for them to determine though whether or not it is a tape issue, dirty heads, or camcorder issue.
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July 7th, 2007, 07:49 AM | #23 |
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Luke, did you make sure to use a cleaning tape before beginning to use the camera? Usually when people complain about dropouts in a brand new camera, that's the cause. The cure is to run a head cleaning tape, and is specifically advised in the user manual of Canon camcorders.
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July 7th, 2007, 08:32 AM | #24 | |
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Quote:
I do get occasional breaks on the laptop when I forget to stop recording there before stopping the tape recording. Mpegstreamclip fixes the resulting timecode problem but not the 15 frame patch of red. Just ordered PP CS3. Hoping that OnLocation will help with that. Come to think of it, does anyone know of a setting in the A-1 that will help? |
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July 16th, 2007, 07:55 PM | #25 | |
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Tom
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Any Ideas other that a tape head cleaner?? |
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July 17th, 2007, 09:51 AM | #26 |
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When you get a new camera, first thing to do is use the head cleaning tape. Then, only use high quality tape. You didn't say which version of Sony miniDV tape you used before switching to the HD quality. The fact you had no problems with the better quality tape should tell you something about the cheaper stuff. You are not the first person I've read about who has had problems with the Sony miniDV tapes in an HDV camera.
I'd clean the heads and only use top quality tape. I used Sony DVCAM for years and had no problems at all, but with the XH A1 I switched to Panasonic's AMQ tapes. They're 8 bucks from our local dealer, cheaper at B&H, and lots of people are using them with absolutely no trouble at all. Sony's version of the same thing are quite a bit more expensive, as I'm sure you know. If you clean the heads and use good tape and still have problems, then the camera is defective and would be covered under warranty. From your post, however, I'd bet on the tape and dirt on the heads. |
July 18th, 2007, 09:41 PM | #27 | |
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Quote:
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July 19th, 2007, 10:53 PM | #28 |
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One of the things that was suggested to me previously is to run a tape in record mode with the lense cap on all the way through. Then rewind and record normally. This apparently ensures continuous timecode. Haven't had a chance to try it yet, but I thought I'd throw it out here.
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