How to set up a firmware update wishlist?

[Chris Hurd]

Originally Posted by Stu Siegal

the ability to completely remove the zoom bar on the upper left of the screen

The ability already exists, in the Custom Displays menu.

[Tony Tibbetts]

Any sort rotate /flip option would be nice. Be it the LCD or actually recorded on tape.

[Stu Siegal]

Originally Posted by Holly Rognan

I thought you could do this.

The customize display preset 03 effects turns the W to T indicator. Even when I set it to off, the bar is still there, it just doesn't move when I zoom. If I'm misunderstanding something, help!

[Chris Hurd]

Originally Posted by Holly Rognan

Also I would like a custom button in the menu for xlr mic enabling.

I'm confused... this option already exists.

Audio Setup > XLR Input > On or Off. See page 48 in the operator's manual.

Another easy feature to implement is having the ability to set different audio levels for left and right channels instead of being limited to one channel.

You mean, when using the Ch1 > Ch1 & Ch2 button? Because otherwise this option already exists.

[Bill Busby]

Originally Posted by Holly Rognan

I would like an option to disable the color bars ( So i can permantly remove the tape)

I use color bars sometimes but I dont like the position of it, so a disable option would be great.

Holly, could you elaborate? Just curious because this makes no sense to me.

Originally Posted by Holly Rognan

Another easy feature to implement is having the ability to set different audio levels for left and right channels instead of being limited to one channel.

I'm assuming you're talking about the inability to select separate channels for auto gain & manual. It's either select auto gain or manual gain for BOTH channels... lame! This really irks me as well & can't for the life of me figure out why they designed it this way. It seems it's been this way for a while based on other past models, so apparently either no one complained (hard to believe) or they did & Canon ignored it? I've never ever worked with any camera that didn't have selectable channels for auto or manual gain. It's one of the 1st things I noticed, but bought the A1 anyway :)

Since this is switched based on the body, I'm not sure it can be altered with a menu setting via a firmware update. Maybe I'm wrong?

[Stu Siegal]

Originally Posted by Chris Hurd

I'm confused... this option already exists.

Audio Setup > XLR Input > On or Off. See page 48 in the operator's manual.

I think what she may mean is the ability to toggle between the internal mic and xlr's with the custom keys, without having to go into menus. If not, then I'll add that to the list, for sure.

Lots of times I'll have 2 lavs and want to quickly switch to cam mic to grab some tone for 30 sec, then back to lavs, would be nice to avoid going into menus to do so.

[Chris Hurd]

Originally Posted by Stu Siegal

The customize display preset 03 effects turns the W to T indicator. Even when I set it to off, the bar is still there, it just doesn't move when I zoom. If I'm misunderstanding something, help!

When you set the zoom display option to "off" and close out the Custom Display menu, you're still operating with the default display items. You'll have to press the "Disp." button (above the Mag and Peaking buttons) in order to activate your chosen Custom Display options. No more zoom bar, even when you're zooming.

There are four different stages that cycle through the Disp. button each time you press it. For more information about Custom Displays and how they work, see this thread:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=80269

Hope this helps,

[Dirk Bouwen]

Excellent idea, the firmware wishlist.

Autofocus in low light: surely, although a lot was promised, this is not the A1's most lucky feature. The focus starts 'pumping' very frequently (I know what real pro's are thinking... but, Canon: make this work as it should be, never experienced similar problems with a Sony VX/PD).

Regarding the low light competences, there's surely room for improvement. Ofcourse, the 'physics' of the cam and CCD's particulary cannot be changed, but really ANYTHING that can help the overall sensitivity/according noise quality in the post-processing of the image is welcome !!!

I wouldn't judge the present NR filtering settings as a fully ideal tools - NR1 is an hardly usable option, NR2 is somewhat better, but I wouldn't get excited of it either. Improve this Canon, make the A1 a rocksolid tool also in the worst light conditions, and you beat ALL competion!

Intermediate steps in the gain: good remark. The configurable intervals are a little big now.

Why not provide (an) additional stop(s) between 1/25 and 1/50 (1/33 and/or 1/40), as this is a very 'critical area' in the low light usage?

The "night" preset as such on the power selector is crap, as already commented, 1/25 is hardly usable, but even beyond that also the filtering can be improved a lot. Change this a least to 1/50 as a standard, and provide a better noise postprocessing.

I didn't find any means to show the remaining battery time in real minutes on the display (as Sony does), but also something I'm missing now: a bar graph is too rough as this is a critical parameter.

In my cam I encountered an issue with the downconvert option. A black line is flickering on top of the image. I'm in discussion with Canon about this, but if this is a serial issue, it should be fixed.

I don't know what's technically possible, but in the VCR/play menu, (down) conversion section, make it possible to convert 50i to 25f (algorithms to do this are somewhere in the camera).

[Chris Hurd]

Originally Posted by Dirk Bouwen

Autofocus in low light...

The terms "autofocus" and "low light" are mutually exclusive. Autofocus technology works by measuring the difference in contrast between objects within the frame. If the available light level is not high enough, then neither is the apparent contrast; therefore, autofocus cannot be expected to work in low light. Neither is Canon's "Instant AF" function specifically intended for any situation in which low light levels are already detrimental to the Normal AF function. Instant AF is simply a faster way for the autofocus to work, in normal light conditions that do not adversely affect AF to begin with.

The cure for low light situations is to add light. All cameras need light. Light is what makes an image.

As it is, the XH camcorders perform no worse than any other HD camcorders in low light situations.

[Alex Leith]

Originally Posted by Chris Hurd

As it is, the XH camcorders perform no worse than any other HD camcorders in low light situations.

Personally I think the A1 handles low light focus no worse but "differently" to other camcorder.

With most cameras AF becomes "vague" at low light levels, frequently ranging back and forth.

With the IAF element of the A1 the ranging happens rather more rapidly. It's the same behaviour but looks a bit more intense. It almost seems manic! Heh! Heh!

Anyway, it's a little disconcerting at first (when we're used to AF behaving a certain way)... But you get used to it. And of course, like Chris says, AF is a tool that can help us in certain circumstances, but not something that we should be relying on in low light conditions.

Somewhat off topic... sorry.

[Dirk Bouwen]

Ofcourse true that any camera needs light... but still, I'd wish that the A1 performs in the 'critical area' as my (non HD) VX...

It surely isn't - not a lot of proof is necessary to notice difference. Even not in the "not so low" light area (both noise & focusing competences). This doesn't want to say that I don't love the A1: it's surely an excellent HD cam!

I must admit that I'm still in the 'learning curve' regarding the A1 (obvious with this panoply of settings). And also true: low light is surely not what I'm requiring daily. But I've got a technical background and like to compare technical competences as well.

The VX/PD's were very well performing in this area. Hard not to think of them as a standard benchmark for any camera, if you're so used to this capability?

Yes, Chris I agree, to a certain extend it's unfair. But you don't always have the possibility to add light, if you're busy with event stuff, don't you?

[Chris Hurd]

I can understand the need for better performance in low-light situations that cannot be altered with additional light. Standard-definition camcorders, especially the Sony VX series, are better performers in low light because they have fewer pixels in their image sensors than HD camcorders. SD camcorder image sensor pixels are larger than the pixels in HD sensors and therefore gather more light. More pixels in HD sensors means they must be smaller and therefore they don't get as much light. Hence, worse low-light performance in HD than SD.

[Raymond Toussaint]

Originally Posted by Alex Leith

My wishlist

1. OIS on custom key!!!
2. 1/50th default shutter speed in 25F (or at least the capacity to remember the selected shutter speed.
3. Exposure override via iris ring in Tv and Av mode.
4. Soft clipping in manual audio mode
5. Custom presets select via shutter scroll wheel
6. Image flip on LCD (I'm guessing it's a stretch)

3. Exposure override via iris ring in Tv and Av mode.
In Av mode you can set an F number and it stays there and it slows or speeds the shutter to do so. You always can set a different F number with the iris ring.

[Chris Hurd]

He might be referring to AE shift for the Auto mode. Right now it's in the menu only. Would be great to have it on the iris ring. However, as far as "exposure override" via iris ring in Tv mode, this is on there already via the Exposure Lock button. When pressed, it offers full manual control of both shutter and iris.

[Raymond Toussaint]

I'll give my three points then.

1. OIS to custom key
2. In Manual: exp. lock button --> behaviors as auto exposure override
3. Peaking and zebra together