Various samples

[Lee Wilson]

Originally Posted by Wayne Morellini

For normal video 50i is alright, for cinema true progressive is better than de-interlace. Remember, things on a big screen look more obvious the closer you get to the screen, then the relatively small 40inch+ wide screen TV's. I am currently looking at 30-32inch as one of the desktop monitors.

For 25fps, you can look at variable Neutral Density Filters to get exposure right. The 25fps and audio can be slowed to 24fps. The biggest problem is that cinema usually use 180 degree shutters (which is 48th of a second) so you need 50th second shutter before slow down. For 24p type applications, the 1/25th a second shutter is a curiosity, but otherwise you don't really need it.

Yeah! Fergus you heard him, don't forget about the 180 degree angle of the shutter on the projectors used in cinema when they project the celluloid film conversions at 24 frames per second of your video footage.


;)

[Fergus Anderson]

Originally Posted by Lee Wilson

Yes !

Perfect.




If it is bright enough (sunny day or indoors with a couple of £6.50 500 watt halogen lights from B&Q pointed at the mother in law/girlfriend/cat) the really high speeds are great for capturing high speed motion - each frame will be frozen in time with zero motion blur at the really high end (the shutter was not open long enough for the light to smear across the sensor).

Stick the HV10 on 1/2000th and film some people running in a sprint, each frame will be cyrstal clear with no motion blur, good for analyzing your golf swing. The look of high shutter speed footage looks great to me, loads of bits of 'Saving Private Ryan' are shot on high shutter speeds if you know that film.

If there is not enough light around (more likely to happen indoors) for high shutter speeds the shutter speed indicator on the scree will flash, if you don't know what I am talking about put your hand over the lens and watch the LCD screen, that flashing thing is the shutter speed indicator : ) .




At 1/25th you are almost guaranteed to have a fair bit of motion blur in your footage, I challenge you to film with 1/25th on a sunny day outdoors, even with the exposure turned all the way down it is likely to be too bright and blow the image out in all but the darkest areas.



Me too, file factory stinks !

Cheers Lee - really helpful stuff
When I get home I will try some stuff out with various shutter speeds. I think I have been confused with shutter speed and fps. So shutter speed controls the clarity of each field although it always records 50 interlaced fields per second? How do I view each frame to see how clear or blurred it is if the camera doesnt record individual frames?

I did include a couple of sampels shot at 1/25 above and yes they are brighter - on the beach scene I reduced the exposure to compensate - if you look at the waves they are not as sharp as the 1/50 footage but I didnt notice much blur.

Great tips though - thanks again.
Should I invest in a ND filter? What benefit will that give me over reducing the exposure manually?

Sorry for all the questions!

By the way I do know SPR and love the look of that film!!! Now if I could get my HV10 to priduce footage like that I would be happy... lol

[Ron Chau]

FileFactory
MegaUpload
FlyUpload


I find them all to be about the same. All make you look at advertisements by forcing you to look hard to find the download link. I don't notice any difference in download times.

The service is free. Hard to complain especially since the files they host are usually big.

[Lee Wilson]

Originally Posted by Fergus Anderson

Cheers Lee - really helpful stuff
When I get home I will try some stuff out with various shutter speeds. I think I have been confused with shutter speed and fps.

fps = 25 pictures a second or more accurately 50 fields (half height interlaced frames) a second.

shutter speed = how long the sensor is exposed to the image coming in through the lens - long periods (1/50 and below) allow more light to fall on the sensor (if you sit in the sun for 1/50th of a second you will get a better tan than if you sit in the sun for 1/2000th of a second) - shorter periods with the shutter open will let less light in (darker image) but will 'freeze' things more as the image is caught in a 'single' position and the shutter closes before it has moved on (all very analogous but you get the idea).

Originally Posted by Fergus Anderson

So shutter speed controls the clarity of each field although it always records 50 interlaced fields per second?

Yes, shutter speed controls 'clarity' - not focus but how much time is captured in the 1/50th of a second the shutter is taking to record one field - you can get it to use the whole 1/50th of a second or perhpas just 1/250th of this 1/50th. Shutter speed can also be used to control exposure by controlling the amount of light hitting the sensor.

Originally Posted by Fergus Anderson

How do I view each frame to see how clear or blurred it is if the camera doesnt record individual frames?

A frame here refers to two fields - play your movie back in anything like quicktime player, MPEG Streamclip, VLC etc and as you step through the frames or stop on one frame you will be looking at two fields or one frame.

Originally Posted by Fergus Anderson

Great tips though - thanks again.
Should I invest in a ND filter? What benefit will that give me over reducing the exposure manually?

A ND filter will allow you to use slower shutter speeds in situations where there is too much light - normally a slower shutter speed would allow too much light in to the sensor but a ND filter can get around this - of course the aperture has to be borne in mind here as a preferable tool - but you may wish to keep the apature wide open to get a shallow depth of field (you know big close up of flower with the background out of focus)

Originally Posted by Fergus Anderson

Sorry for all the questions!

Sorry for all the answers!

Originally Posted by Fergus Anderson

By the way I do know SPR and love the look of that film!!! Now if I could get my HV10 to priduce footage like that I would be happy... lol

You would be suprised what a decent de-interlacing plug-in and an afternoon of grading can achieve.