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August 16th, 2009, 01:59 AM | #1 |
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Wide Lens converter for HF-S10
Hi All - recently got an HF-S10 and was wondering about wide lens converters.
( max wide angle on the camera feels kind of cramped indoors ) Can anyone tell me whether these models will widen the angle on a HF-S10 while preserving sharpness and minimizing CA? DC58A Canon | WC-DC58A 0.75x Wide Angle Converter Lens | 0299B001 DC58B Canon | WC-DC58B Wide Angle Converter Lens | 1595B001 | B&H WD58H Canon | WD-58H 58mm 0.7x Wide Angle Converter Lens | 8030A001 I know theres one specifically made for the HFS10 : Canon | WD-H58 Wide Converter Lens (0.7x) | 3572B001 | B&H Photo but I was wondering if the lower cost ones listed above would also be compatible and minimize distortion/colour abboration + no vignetting at full wide zoom. (since they're all 58mm threads + Canon brand.) Thanks |
August 16th, 2009, 11:37 AM | #2 |
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I can't speak for the 58H (for Gl2) but with the H58 (HF-S10 and 100) you get a really sharp image throughout the entire zoom range and no barrel showing ever. I often just leave it on the camera. I wish it had front threads for filters.
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August 16th, 2009, 12:18 PM | #3 |
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I have been using the recommended WD-58H -.7 for the HF-S10 for the last week on a trip and I just leave it on. It is an excellent piece of glass, rather heavy, but it is just part of the camera, no problems at all, other than the frustration of not having a front thread which is somewhat disappointing from a company like Canon.
However, hang the expense, just buy it , you won't be sorry. RonC. |
August 16th, 2009, 01:37 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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August 17th, 2009, 12:39 PM | #5 |
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Agreed. I just posted some examples in another post. I thought someone might want to see.
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August 19th, 2009, 07:23 AM | #6 |
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have you got these distortion problems even on protection filters ?
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August 19th, 2009, 08:00 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
The wideangle converter has no filter threads for a very good reason, and that is that once attached, you're working at a focal length of about 4 mm. Hold your fingertips 4 mm apart and marvel at that minute focal length. Now imagine what the dof will be, even at maximum aperture. Spot on - from a few inches to infinity. So when you add a filter you add two more air-to-glass surfaces, two more surfaces that are never perfectly clean, and in against the light shots these imperfections become glaringly and painfully obvious. The Raynox 6600Pro lens has a hood thread - it's not described as a filter thread for this reason. And no need to 'protect' the front element - modern multi-coatings are really tough and you can clean them regularly with no ill effects. |
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August 24th, 2009, 03:08 PM | #8 |
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Thanks Tom, for educating me.
It's nice to know the reason for this, but as I often say, - why don't the manufacturers just tell us this in the first place & then we would understand. RonC. |
August 25th, 2009, 01:14 AM | #9 |
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Thanks for the thanks Ron - and it's good to know I'm getting the message across about filters and very short focal lengths. I'm not adverse to using a UV as mechanical protection if I'm asked to film windsurfers all day on the beach, or if I'm asked to film a sticky-fingered childrens' party - but at all other times I say DON'T - resist the temptation to fit a filter, and especially so if you use a wide converter.
I use an aspheric element on the front of my Z1 that gives me the (equivalent) of a 17 mm lens. Wow - it's strikingly and frighteningly wide, but even so, I sometimes have trouble with it if I shoot into the light. It's impossible to hood as it sees so wide, but even though it's a single element, beautifully T* multi-coated and is as spotless as I can get it I still see the odd spot or two on my footage. Thank goodness it's only a single element and that I don't use filters. Every added element adds to the flare levels. tom. |
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