HV20 + Brevis35 in Istanbul - white blow-out? at DVinfo.net

J.J. Fiasson · June 14th, 2008, 06:18 AM

So just before I left for this holiday I bought a Brevis35 MP.1 and a bunch of Nikon lenses (35mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8). I performed the vertical flip hack for screen, but somehow stuffed up the horizontal flip so it's reversed. Anyway, I've been in Istanbul for 4-5 days and very quickly put this together. It's the first video I've ever edited (done in FCP6), so tips / comments / criticisms all welcome.

Keep in mind this was all done hand-held, and focus was done using the small LCD with peaking on.

Video is here: http://www.vimeo.com/1165215

I've also got a few questions if anyone can offer up some advice:
- What is the key to avoiding white blow-outs as can be seen in some parts of the footage? Can these be fixed in post or is it simply better to underexpose and boost the footage later if it's a little dark?

- Why do the text titles look squished? In FCP before final output to H. 264 the titles are not this thin. The video footage itself, however, looks to be the correct aspect ratio. Any ideas?

- I got an annoying buzzing sound with the Rode StereoMic when filming some segments of this. It can be heard during the buskers' performance. Likely a low battery issue?

- When filming this kind of thing - i.e. outside, camera not static - should I be using the exposure lock or should I leave the exposure as variable to compensate for changes in lighting? Is shutter priority mode better (with 1/48) or should I use Cine + exposure lock for 1/48?

- I guess this is related to previous questions - but what kind of aperture settings on the HV20 should I be aiming for? I understand that whatever lenses are attached to the Brevis should be set below f/4 to avoid vignetting and grain.

Cheers! :)

Chris Barcellos · June 14th, 2008, 10:50 AM

Blow outs. Best way to avoid, is have you zebras active, and shoot in Cine mode rather than "TV" or "A" modes. Cine mode seems to have a wider latitude, giving you more room in post to color correct.

In addition, in shooting with adapters, I sense that we benefit from an extension of latitude. It seems like the transfer of the image to ground glass may reduce the range or difference between the high and low levels. I am only speculating about this, and that is based on my experience shooting both ways.

Moayad Hassan · June 15th, 2008, 06:17 AM

In general, it is easier to fix an under exposed image than an over exposed one in digital photography.. or video. This is why I always under expose one stop. The auto exposure on the HV20 tend to overexpose, so it is better to lock it.

When shooting outside it is better not to move the camera from lit to dark scenes (or the other way) in the same shot in the first place, try to cut between the shots.

Dean Ronald · June 15th, 2008, 09:10 PM

need to get into habit of locking exposure myself

June 14th, 2008, 06:18 AM	#1
J.J. Fiasson Tourist Join Date: May 2008 Location: Sydney Posts: 1	HV20 + Brevis35 in Istanbul - white blow-out? So just before I left for this holiday I bought a Brevis35 MP.1 and a bunch of Nikon lenses (35mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8). I performed the vertical flip hack for screen, but somehow stuffed up the horizontal flip so it's reversed. Anyway, I've been in Istanbul for 4-5 days and very quickly put this together. It's the first video I've ever edited (done in FCP6), so tips / comments / criticisms all welcome. Keep in mind this was all done hand-held, and focus was done using the small LCD with peaking on. Video is here: http://www.vimeo.com/1165215 I've also got a few questions if anyone can offer up some advice: - What is the key to avoiding white blow-outs as can be seen in some parts of the footage? Can these be fixed in post or is it simply better to underexpose and boost the footage later if it's a little dark? - Why do the text titles look squished? In FCP before final output to H. 264 the titles are not this thin. The video footage itself, however, looks to be the correct aspect ratio. Any ideas? - I got an annoying buzzing sound with the Rode StereoMic when filming some segments of this. It can be heard during the buskers' performance. Likely a low battery issue? - When filming this kind of thing - i.e. outside, camera not static - should I be using the exposure lock or should I leave the exposure as variable to compensate for changes in lighting? Is shutter priority mode better (with 1/48) or should I use Cine + exposure lock for 1/48? - I guess this is related to previous questions - but what kind of aperture settings on the HV20 should I be aiming for? I understand that whatever lenses are attached to the Brevis should be set below f/4 to avoid vignetting and grain. Cheers! :)

June 14th, 2008, 10:50 AM	#2
Chris Barcellos Inner Circle Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Elk Grove CA Posts: 6,838	Blow outs. Best way to avoid, is have you zebras active, and shoot in Cine mode rather than "TV" or "A" modes. Cine mode seems to have a wider latitude, giving you more room in post to color correct. In addition, in shooting with adapters, I sense that we benefit from an extension of latitude. It seems like the transfer of the image to ground glass may reduce the range or difference between the high and low levels. I am only speculating about this, and that is based on my experience shooting both ways. __________________ Chris J. Barcellos

June 15th, 2008, 06:17 AM	#3
Moayad Hassan New Boot Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Birmingham, UK Posts: 16	In general, it is easier to fix an under exposed image than an over exposed one in digital photography.. or video. This is why I always under expose one stop. The auto exposure on the HV20 tend to overexpose, so it is better to lock it. When shooting outside it is better not to move the camera from lit to dark scenes (or the other way) in the same shot in the first place, try to cut between the shots.

June 15th, 2008, 09:10 PM	#4
Dean Ronald New Boot Join Date: May 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 7	need to get into habit of locking exposure myself