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September 21st, 2006, 11:50 AM | #1 |
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Filming Ice Hockey
This question was asked once before, and I read the responses but maybe there is some new ideas. Basically, I film some local hockey games with my Gl2. Some questions. Should I white balance to the ice as it is under different light them where I am filming from or use a paper? Also what should I set my focus to before switching to manual focus...players on the bench? And lastly I tried using TV 60 mode which I like for a lot of things. The picture was ok but fast skating was kind of blurry. I know the right answer is try everything and anything and experiment...which I slowly am, but I thought if someone already has it down to a science they could at least point me in the right direction. Thanks for your help.
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September 21st, 2006, 01:55 PM | #2 |
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1st of all white balance on the boards they are usually white.
2nd set your focus on the opposite side boards or the goals, you may have to refocus if you're shooting outside the rink itself or if you zoom in and shoot close. If you stay wide your shot will remain in focus as stated above. Also check your shutter speed. It helps when shooting sports, fast movement. |
September 30th, 2006, 02:22 PM | #3 |
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I haigh shutter speed will help keep fast action from blurring but a smaller opening on the iris will make more area stay in focus. I had trouble filming thaiboxing because the lights kept going out and I had to have the iris almost full open an fstop around 2 with gain at +12. As a result The Depth of Field didn't go half way across the ring. If I focused on action on the near side of the ring all action on the far side of the ring was out of focus causing me to have to refocus as the action moved.
Ideally the rink will be light enough that you can use a faster shutter speed and a larger f number such as around 8 or even higher. That way the focus will cover all the rink. After all you want all the action clear and not just the center of attention anyway. Using this idea I would try to see where focus on the closest board and the farthest board are focused. If they both are in focus thats great. If they are not both in focus then experiment with something between the two fstops. Remember that depth of Field is about proportionaly is about 1/3 in front of center of focus to 2/3 behind the center of focus. |
October 5th, 2006, 02:25 PM | #4 |
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Funny you mention this Rob as I just shot a game a few days ago with my GL2 in order to get the settings down in preparation of shooting some of the practice sessions of our local WHL team. Also wanted to practice a bit with my tripod, fluid head and smooth movement skills. I still plan to shoot quite a few more games before I have any real definitive numbers and set-ups to report, but for general wide coverage shooting from a red line position the best I seemed to be getting was wide open, SS at about 1/160 and 6dB - of course this will vary according to how bright your rink is. Much of the stuff I shot was too dark upon later examination, but I caught a lot of that early and adjusted my exposure. I put up a 4 min (43mb) clip online of some of it:
Right click (or option click) to download first. http://www.realeyz.com/misc/hockey_video_practice.mp4
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October 11th, 2006, 02:59 PM | #5 |
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I thought Todd, your video sample looked quite good. It was helpfull seeing an example. Do you white balance to the ice or the boards (our boards have ads on all of them)? Also what are you setting your initial focus to before switching to manual? Where I film usually is above the stands and it is a bit darker than down at Ice Level. Also do you use Frame or Normal mode?
Thanks for yours and everyone elses help. Rob |
October 11th, 2006, 04:57 PM | #6 |
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Thanx Rob - I tried white balancing to the ice, the boards, and the walls. Auto Indoor WB seemed to work the best since most of the scene is white (or percieved as white anyway). The focus ended up also working best in auto, but only when I was shooting from the corner of the rink when players would get very close to me and very far to other end of the rink. If I was shooting from above or a more centralized location then I would go manual. Then if I was doing a lot of zooming in for player close ups then I would switch back to auto. I always shoot in Frame mode.
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October 16th, 2006, 03:38 PM | #7 |
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Hi folks,
Just curious as to if you use the TriPod's OEM control handle, which Zooming Remote unit you use, and how do you monitor what the Cam is seeing ??? Harold |
October 16th, 2006, 06:24 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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October 16th, 2006, 09:15 PM | #9 |
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Hello again,
Forgot to ask, do you also have to stand there to use your set up, or can you sit ?? Harold |
October 17th, 2006, 11:51 AM | #10 | |
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October 17th, 2006, 05:03 PM | #11 |
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Hi,
I kind of thought you folks were doing it the hard way. I've custom made my own Extendable (2' to 4') Single and Two Handled Control Arm systems. Can change them out in 5 mins. I can use the OEM single handle if I want to, but almost never do, as I found the longer handles to give me better control years ago. I've also custom made a "Cam-to-head attachment", that allows for the Cam to be placed in whatever vertical position is needed to allow the control handle(s) remain where it needs to be for best control. My Bogen 3011 TriPod and 3126 Head, work just fine with this system. I also use a separate LCD monitor (5" to 15") along with a wired remote and a custom set-up Infrared remote for the Zooming function. I can sit or stand and have the Cam at about 7'. These 4 things make any action Videography much easier, as some of the horse shows I do can last up to 10+ hours of tracking horses around an arena or a cross country jump course. I use a Sony Wired Remote handle from one of their TriPods (2 speed) and I have fabricated each of my 4 Sony Cams Infrared Remotes to be used with fiber optic cables to the Cams. They can be used either freehand or attached to the control arms, for the Zooming and Cam on/off. I can use the controls with either hand. The better Remotes will give you even better Cam controls. I have my TriPods "PreWired", so I can simply mount the Cam, and then just plug in the power, remotes (wired and fiberoptic), and Video/Sound outputs. I'm set up to run 2 VCR's, the Cam and a monitor, for up to 12+ hours in the field, on full battery power. I also do Roller Skating Video for a local Skate Party outfit. Been a Roller Skater myself for over 50 years, I just don't run my "Custom 17"+ Stilt Skates" anymore. Can send you Pics of any of these Mods if interested. Harold |
October 17th, 2006, 07:14 PM | #12 |
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Interesting set up Harold - yes I would love to see photos of all of this. I doubt I would ever need anything so elaborate, but then again I only shoot games which last 1 hour - who knows though... At some point I may have to do a long marathon recording session and need some of your suggestions.
Thanx for sharing!
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October 29th, 2006, 03:33 AM | #13 |
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Yikes...
I finally got around to watching your footage Todd and I almost spit my drink all over my laptop when I saw "Loren Berg, Newberg" on the boards and realized it had to be Sherwood Ice. (I live in Newberg).
I've been meaning to attend a practice. They let you come in with a tripod and a cam? JR |
October 29th, 2006, 12:39 PM | #14 | |
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Ahh well, shouldn't be too much longer.
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